Another Bayliner resto, complete tear down, opinions/advice welcome!

[clowe1965]

Right at 2", maybe 1/16 less in a few spots. The original hull was really thin, it's now sitting at 1/4-5/16 around the keyhole.

 

[clowe1965]

Transom is tabbed in.

Now to start filling in the strakes.

 

[clowe1965]

I have a question. The way the boat is made allows for water from rain/spray/swimsuits to collect in the outer edges of the boat (chines?). Should I worry about that? I plan on making a single bench seat across the back that will block water from going all the way to the back of the boat, but it will still collect there just further forward. The water amount should be minimal I think, pretty sure I'm over thinking this and trying to prevent the rotting that occurs in all boats.

 

[Woodonglass]

I guess I'm dense cuz I'm not picturing what you're saying. Got any pics or a drawing to help this Old Dumb Okie out???

 

[clowe1965]

OK fixed.

The deck of the boat is only 4' across, the remainder of the floor is composed of the inner face of the hull. The outer portions of the floor that form the chines of the boat slant towards the outside and will store water, not allowing it to drain to the bilge. It might not be much water since the bow will have seats and not allow water to run from bow to stern with the compartments, but water could still get there from rain and people getting in and out, or the occasional hosing. Maybe this isn't a big deal, but my concern is that the water may sit and eventually start penetrating the foam filled boxes under the consoles, or the rear seat boxes. Not a structurally critical thing but after this I want to eliminate all sources of pooling water I can.

 

[clowe1965]

Is there something wrong with iboats or is it just me? I think about half of my post have gotten screwed up, even more so on the phone than the computer.

 

[Woodonglass]

Yeah the forum is having issues. Not very Phone Posting Friendly.

 

[clowe1965]

OK the thread is no longer screwed up.

 

[Woodonglass]

OK fixed.

The deck of the boat is only 4' across, the remainder of the floor is composed of the inner face of the hull. The outer portions of the floor that form the chines of the boat slant towards the outside and will store water, not allowing it to drain to the bilge. It might not be much water since the bow will have seats and not allow water to run from bow to stern with the compartments, but water could still get there from rain and people getting in and out, or the occasional hosing. Maybe this isn't a big deal, but my concern is that the water may sit and eventually start penetrating the foam filled boxes under the consoles, or the rear seat boxes. Not a structurally critical thing but after this I want to eliminate all sources of pooling water I can.

Any place in your boat where water can accumulate and sit is NOT a good thing. I would do whatever it took to re-design it so this would not occur.

 

[clowe1965]

No I have not given up on this project, it's just outside and too cold to glass lol. Did finally find a good way to set the cover up where water doesn't pool in it, just in time for my electric pump to break too.

Switching gears to the outdrive. I'm gonna rattle can some enamel over the exposed aluminum and clean up any corrosion that is currently on it. I've disassembled the gimbal housing and I've got pretty much every thing else disassembled. Replaced the water pump impeller and shaft seals. Now for the questions.

I have not found a helpful shop around here, kind of disappointing. Most of the transom shield studs were corroded to some degree, one was missing about 1/3 the diameter. Anyhow I got all of them out, and then realized that some of them are different lengths. I think there are 4 of each length, but I cannot for the life of me figure out which ones go where. Any help?

 

[clowe1965]

A pic from filling in the strakes. Ate up a couple gallons of resin and I get to break the sander back out to smooth it out. Did this a while ago just never posted because I was fed up with the technical issues. Did this set in August and then didn't finish it due to car shows and weather until October.

 

[clowe1965]

Back at it again. Sanded down the strakes and went to touch up some spots, looks like I'll be cleaning those out as the resin didn't set over night. I did a test batch the night before but heated it with a spot lamp. The bulb blew on me when I tried to use it this time and I didn't have a spare.

Other than having to sand it like crazy to get a good finish, anything I should know about rolling on gelcoat? I don't have a sprayer.

 

[Woodonglass]

I'd recommend rolling on 4 coats and catalyze it @ 2%. Thin the last coat 15% with Acetone.

 

[clowe1965]

Thanks, my gelcoat has been sitting sealed for about 9 months so guess a test batch is in order, shake it up real good and hope for the best. Glad I have the acetone sitting around already.

 

[Woodonglass]

It's not the Gel Coat I'd be worried about. It's the Catalyst. It usually goes bad first. Has it been in a Cool Dry environment? If it gets hot or really humid then it can go bad pretty quick.

 

[Mr.Stickney]

Nice work Clowe! I'm doing something very similar in my Searay at the moment, and just when I thought I had read everything about this type of work on this site you guys throw "filling strakes" at me! What's the purpose or advantage?

 

[clowe1965]

Thanks wood, the stuff has been inside my attached garage so no hotter than 90 but in sc humidity is everywhere. I have 1 bottle of mekp I haven't opened, I tested with the opened one but apparently it is somewhat flawed. I'll just go get new.

Stickney what I read was that they need to be filled or they will develop cracks. Also they were filled from the factory. I though I was done after the stringers but I kept cutting and found more wood pieces in there. You can fill them with other stuff but wood is the most economical.

If I were to do it again I might try getting a thin veneer and cutting it to the right width then glass over that. Then come back with a structural foam and pour/inject it in. Probably end up with a flatter surface. Another reason I did wood and peanut butter is that the stringers and deck sit right on top of these areas.

 

[clowe1965]

Good news, I took the heat gun to the soft areas and they hardened right up after a few Minutes. The giant blob of leftovers also hardened without heat so I think it.might have been cold Temps and low quality catalyst that slowed it down, plus it was a super thin coat. Just trying to get rid of some low spots on the transom so it will seal properly.

 

[clowe1965]

Got the stringers rough cut over the weekend, need to trim them up and make the bulkheads. Would have gotten farther but I got distracted by craigslist and ended up installing a lift kit on the jeep. Have to keep the tow vehicle well equipped ya know.

 

[clowe1965]

So with such a small transom, do I need to put two layers of 1708 as the skin? It's sitting Just under 2-1/8 right now and can only go to 2.25 for the alpha drive. Basing this off of Frisco Jarrett's sea ray build. I have 2 layers of tabbing around it right now. Just worried about the thickness creeping up, still have the gelcoat to consider. I think I could do a single layer for the skin without issue.