New Floor in 1989 Crestliner 16' Fishing Boat

[tmelvold]

For the past few years, I've been wanting to replace the floor in my 25 year old fishing boat. This year, I'm bound and determined to do it! I have nothing more than basic tools and a lot of ambition to get it done. What I don't have is any experience in doing this. I have read a lot of threads to learn some of the basics but will need to lean on many of you for advice and help.

Before I get started, I wanted to put up some pictures of what we have currently to get as much advice as possible during the planning stages. There are soft spots in the floor right now. I would like to replace the whole thing rather than just piece it together and would like to keep it mostly the same configuration with a few modifications for convenience.


Side View


View From Bow to Stern


View From Stern to Bow


Soft spot in the floor where the chair bracket is loose


Bench where the gas tank and batteries sit. I would like to extend this out a few inches to allow space for both gas tanks and batteries.



Thanks in advance and I'm looking forward to the journey!
Tim

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: New Floor in 1989 Crestliner 16' Fishing Boat

Welcome to iBoats Tim!!!

I'm not a TINNER, but we have a bunch of em on here and I'm sure they'll be along shortly to give you all the advice you'll need to have your boat back in Tip Top Shape. She looks to be a Prime Candidate for iBoats so you're in the right Place. From what I've learned here on the forum the Golden Rule is NO PRESSURE TREATED PLYWOOD!!! It will EAT your boat!!! The Guys will take care of the rest.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: New Floor in 1989 Crestliner 16' Fishing Boat

That's a nice tiller tinny you have there! I like the layout.

If your boat hasn't been recarpeted since it was built it should come apart pretty easily, you'll just have to dig around in the carpet knap to find the screws that hold the decking down and back them out with a screw gun. This will produce individually carpeted pieces that come apart kind of like a puzzle, just keep taking out screws until all the carpeted pieces are out of the boat.

If someone that didn't know what they were doing recarpeted your boat and they laid the carpet down over the plywood that was already fastened to the boat you'll have to rip up all the carpet and sand the old carpet glue off of the plywood to find the screws that hold all the pieces in place... a real pain and a lot messier and more work than it needs to be.

Once you get all the wood out of the boat use the old pieces for patterns for cutting the new wood. After the wood is cut seal it with a good sealer like epoxy resin and then wrap the individual pieces in carpet and screw them down in the boat. This way you can take your boat apart and put it back together easily without messing up your nice new carpet job in the future should you ever have to make repai

 

[tmelvold]

Re: New Floor in 1989 Crestliner 16' Fishing Boat

Thanks for the advice! I will be sure to adhere the carpet to the wood in sections as I lay the new floor. A couple questions?

- If not treated plywood, what size of regular plywood should I use? Same size as I have?
- What type of epoxy should I use on the wood?
- Is it acceptable to use a nail gun to put any of the new flooring in to save time?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: New Floor in 1989 Crestliner 16' Fishing Boat

The Ext. Grade Aruaco Brand Plywood from Lowe's or Home Depot is a favorite here on the forum. Very few voids and very nice stuff. 1/2 or 3/4". iBoats sells epoxy right here on the site. A couple of gallons should do the trick. I don't think a Nail gun would be advisable. Stainless steel screws or Aluminum Pop Rivets are the norm for aluminum boat rebuilds from what I've learned.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: New Floor in 1989 Crestliner 16' Fishing Boat

Thanks for the advice! I will be sure to adhere the carpet to the wood in sections as I lay the new floor. A couple questions?

- If not treated plywood, what size of regular plywood should I use? Same size as I have?
- What type of epoxy should I use on the wood?
- Is it acceptable to use a nail gun to put any of the new flooring in to save time?

The same thickness plywood you have now will be the easiest build, increasing the thickness can be a little more work making things fit back together... but can be worth it in the longrun.

Use 2 part marine grade epoxy, it can be bought here at the iboats store or you can do a google search for competitive prices.

Nails will not hold your decking down, your stringers or ribs that the decking fastens to are aluminum and nails won't hold. Stainless steel self tapping screws work well but are expensive. Aluminum blind (pop) rivets also work well and are much cheaper than the stainless steel screws.

I redid my aluminum Tracker deck finish with marine grade deck vinyl and the procedure is nearly the same as carpet, take a look at my thread for an idea of what you'll need to do:
http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...ir/97-tracker-pro-deep-v-facelift-509163.html

 

[tmelvold]

No Title

Well, its been 10 months and I finally decided to take the plunge and get started. I'm down to the foam and stringers and was wondering what everyone uses for foam and where I can get it? It looks like they used the spray in type for this boat.

 

[Woodonglass]

You can use the pour in 2 part foam like what's in there now or some of the guys just use the Pink or Blue Slab foam and cut it to fit...Here's just one example

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ne#post6786820

 

[tmelvold]

Thanks for the example. Is there a good way to remove the current foam that's there? I see a lot of people grab an ice chopper and pick away at it. Looks like I'm in for a ton of work.

 

[tmelvold]

No Title

It took most of the weekend, but I got the foam up and have to say this took the least amount of thinking and the most amount of work. The foam was not as waterlogged as I had thought but once I started, I had to finish it. Next, I'm planning to pressure wash out the bottom to get all the dirt and grime out and then put it in the water to see if there are any leaks/loose rivets letting water in. Then the inevitable question of pour in foam to replace the old stuff or cut sheets of foam to fit.

 

[bonz_d]

Nice work. Looks like a pretty straight forward job w/o a lot of extras in the way. Should go back together pretty quickly. I also really like the ribbing in your boat, it should make for a sturdy decking.

 

[glnbnz]

I'll follow along!!

 

[tmelvold]

As far as the foam install goes, I'm leaning on using sheets of polystyrene foam board. If so, does it make sense to glue sheets together and then cut it to fit the floor. If that is the way to go, what type of glue should I use and should I also glue it to the bottom of the boat or just let the foam sit in place?

 

[64osby]

I think using sheets in your hull makes sense. I think vertical sheets works the best for getting more in. It is also more work.

I would not glue it to the hull, (personal preference) but I have seen a few comments about squeaking foam under the floor. A layer of felt might cure that.

I did see one install where they had the foam rough cut about 1" above the floor supports. Then they cut it flush to the supports The floor rested on it. Maybe put some felt on top to help with squeaking?

 

[tmelvold]

No Title

I finally was able to get the old foam out and was able to pressure wash the hull and apply a coating of Gluvit on the inside to seal the seams and rivets. Now I have to make a decision on foam. I'm now back to thinking about using the "pour in" foam. For those who have done that before - how did you keep the foam out of the middle of the hull (to allow water to flow to the back to the boat)? Also, how much will the chemicals cost to fill the hull?

 

[tmelvold]

For those who have done "pour in" foam, how did you keep it out of the middle of the boat? I see that you want to keep it open to allow water to drain to the back (how mine was originally poured). For those who have done foam board: Do you have a recommendation as to which type I should buy? We only have Lowes near us and want to be sure, if I go that route to buy closed cell foam.

 

[Slager]

Hey, I'll follow along. I'm just starting a similar project myself: http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...929045-1988-sylvan-sea-monster-15-restoration

The foam board is XPS (extruded polystyrene), it is the blue or pink sheets. The white Styrofoam you want to avoid, because it is not closed cell.

 

[tmelvold]

Thanks Slager. Would this be considered "closed cell"? http://www.lowes.com/pd_304092-210-304092.0___?productId=3122451&pl=1&Ntt=foam

 

[Slager]

I don't know for sure, but I doubt it. It doesn't say that it is extruded and states that it has "Low Moisture absorbance". Vs this stuff that says it doesn't absorb moisture: http://www.lowes.com/pd_304089-210-304089.0_0__?productId=3122445

You may be able to check with the store to be sure.

 

[tmelvold]

I will check, but that does look like a much better option. I will follow along on your journey as well. Hopefully the floatation will go in this weekend and we can move onto the floor next. Better get my epoxy ordered soon.