OMC 3.0/Stringer I/O Conversion to Evinrude 225 Outboard project

outdrdave

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This project started years ago when we bought the boat and rebuilt the 3.0 OMC Mercruiser and Stringer 400 that was in it. While we got the OMC engine and stringer running great through time, the frustrations, missed fishing time and learning's had us thinking we wanted to repower down the road. We had thought about keeping the I/O set up and upgrading the power because the only time the 3.0 seemed to get our boat on plane was either ridding the swells in the ocean or being pulled by SeaTow. : )
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The thought of putting more power infront of the 400 Stringer was appealing but the 400 was not built for more power, early on it was enough to keep it together with the 3.0 pushing it. We bought and rebuilt a Stringer 800 and thought we were heading in the right direction so we bought a 305 used with all the "extras" to repower but we never got all the additional parts from the original seller, eventually we couldn't reach the original seller. Frustrating as it was we gave up on the idea.
 

outdrdave

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Re: OMC 3.0/Stringer I/O Conversion to Evinrude 225 Outboard project

Last season the boat ran its best, and by ran its best I mean the following: We did not get stuck on the water, we did not need SeaTow?s assistance, we were able to enjoy the boat and get some fishing in. We did miss the spring run for Striper but the window they caught the few that showed up (live in NJ) was small and they never really seemed to show so it wasn?t to bitter. The reason we missed the spring run is our shift cables that go from the converter box down to the lower had finally gave up on us so I built new ones and man the shifted great last year. It ran so well we put a hard top on the boat which we really like.
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Still.. We were not able to enjoy a ride on plane but were able to enjoy the water, one trip we went 23 miles off shore to wet some lines. We saw our first flying fish on that trip as well as a cool encounter with a shark that was chasing some bait around in circle. We rode next to that shark for 10 minutes or so, very cool (smile says the boat ran great we had a great trip despite not catching anything).
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outdrdave

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Re: OMC 3.0/Stringer I/O Conversion to Evinrude 225 Outboard project

The Conversion:
We had decided that if the right donor boat came along we would consider a conversion to an outboard. Last August I found such the donor boat, it was complete with a bracket, full controls, full gauges, full steering and outboard was complete. Turns out the boat used to be an I/O and was converted in 1990 with a brand new Evinrude 225 at the time, done deal.

We stripped the boat this March and junked the boat and trailer it was on.

The Outboard:
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When we got it home I scoped the cylinders to find #6 piston had a hole in it. Took off the heads, cleaned out the debris from the piston that had been destroyed and the engine turned real nice.
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outdrdave

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Re: OMC 3.0/Stringer I/O Conversion to Evinrude 225 Outboard project

Good thing for steel sleeves in the block, the cylinder cleaned up really nice and mic?d out the same as the other cylinders (how I don?t know but was happy). Got a new used piston and got it back together.
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Fixed the ground wire on the tilt/trim sensor but could not get the gauge to read correctly, might have it wired wrong but need to look more into it soon.
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outdrdave

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Re: OMC 3.0/Stringer I/O Conversion to Evinrude 225 Outboard project

Needed to put a new cap on the lower motor mount and really need to replace the mount but could not get it out. It?s in there supper tight and not going anywhere so we will mess with it later if needed. Might look for another 225 to build as a backup but crossing fingers won?t need it and this all goes good.
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Also put a new water pump in and wired everything up temporarily so we could run it on the stand. Setting up the carburetors seemed complicating but went really easy following the manual.
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outdrdave

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Re: OMC 3.0/Stringer I/O Conversion to Evinrude 225 Outboard project

Cleaned everything up while it was apart, painted the lower covers and lower 2/3?s of the outboard.
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Fired it up Sunday for the first time running an oil/gas mix in the main gas tank and new oil in the VRO tank, it ran great  !!!
 

outdrdave

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Re: OMC 3.0/Stringer I/O Conversion to Evinrude 225 Outboard project

The OMC 3.0 Mercruiser and Stringer
We took video of the boat running for the last time with the 3.0/Stringer set up and started to strip it out. We wanted to have a video of it running for to show the person who buys it. Took the time to ad connectors and zip ties to wires we took off to make it easier for the next owner. We are selling the complete I/0 set up to some lucky person (complete I/0 + steering, controls, gauges), the current set up was really solid but just wasn?t doing what we needed on our 23? walk around with a hard top + fishing gear and people. We also have a bunch of spare parts we are going to part with like the Stringer 800 and all the props we have accumulated.
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outdrdave

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Re: OMC 3.0/Stringer I/O Conversion to Evinrude 225 Outboard project

Last night we also traced out some template ideas and discussed how we will integrate the plugs to tie everything in. We will end up with three ?? pieces of ply that will be keyed to fit together, tie in the stringers and lock into the existing transom. We are also incorporating a 6?X3? piece of ? ply on the inside of the transom and custom ?knee bars?. While we are in there, we are going to drill holes in the stringers and epoxy PEX tubes into them to help water drain from in between the stringers into the bilge.

Hopeful that this weekend we will be glassing in the keys and inside panel.
 
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ondarvr

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Re: OMC 3.0/Stringer I/O Conversion to Evinrude 225 Outboard project

Keep us updated, projects like this are a big help to others looking for ideas.


Should be a very nice boat when you're done.
 

outdrdave

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Re: OMC 3.0/Stringer I/O Conversion to Evinrude 225 Outboard project

Thank you, I'm itching to get back out there working on it.
 

outdrdave

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Re: OMC 3.0/Stringer I/O Conversion to Evinrude 225 Outboard project

This afternoon I filled the rear motor mount holes with epoxy, got through the first pass of cleaning the bildge done and got the two outside plugs cut out. Looked around locally for Meranti ply but ended up deciding some maple I have will do just fine. It's all going to be completely encapsulated and it's important to me that the wood be both finished and strong.

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outdrdave

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Re: OMC 3.0/Stringer I/O Conversion to Evinrude 225 Outboard project

These two plugs will go in from the outside of the hull, the Orange line represents a plug that will go in from the inside of the hull and there will be a larger transom panel added to the inside also.
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Next:
Going to laminate the two outside pieces together I cut this evening and then cut the inside plug and panel.
 
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outdrdave

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Re: OMC 3.0/Stringer I/O Conversion to Evinrude 225 Outboard project

Got the inside plug cut out, the two outside panels laminated together and scrubbed down the inside of the transom and bildge.

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Drilled two 1/2" holes in the outside plugs to locate the two pieces and to use for a press when laminating. Used a piece of matting inbetween the two pices to help with wicking of the plywood and to encapsulate the two pieces individually once installed.
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Also finished pulling the harness, controls, gauges and steering cable/wheel for the I/O setup we're selling.


Next:
Drill holes in the stringers and epoxy in some drains. Water always collects there and while we have access to we are putting drains in. Also going to cut the inside transome panel.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: OMC 3.0/Stringer I/O Conversion to Evinrude 225 Outboard project

As long as the wood stays encapsulated you are correct. However the plywood you're using is interior grade and the wood is laminated with interior grade wood and interior grade glued neither of which is water resistant. It will me imperative that no moisture reach this wood. Your fabrication work is excellent and this conversion is going to be well received here on the forum.;)

Don't forget to "PIN" your location on the New iBoaters map in the STICKY section at the top of the Forum. iBoaters Where Are You??
 

outdrdave

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Re: OMC 3.0/Stringer I/O Conversion to Evinrude 225 Outboard project

Thank you Wood. My only concern thus far is wood choice. It's strong and finished which should make a nice finished result but your right, I'd better go the extra mile to make sure the elements can't get to it.

My plan includes total encapsulation of the plugs when there installed to keep moisture from reaching the ply from adjoining serfaces of the transome. All holes will be over drilled and epoxy filled as well which seems to be a common practice these days with fabricators.

It would seem the only water resistant ply that's water resistant, uses water resistant glue and is a finished ply, is Meranti. I could not find any Meranti locally..
 

jbcurt00

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Re: OMC 3.0/Stringer I/O Conversion to Evinrude 225 Outboard project

Marine Ply is at the far end of the best ply to use scale, I think WOG's suggesting that you went to the other far end of the scale. There are many good choices in between.

I would encapsulate ALL the plywood plugs you plan to add to the boat, BEFORE you install any of it. The epoxy (or polyester resin) & mat you used between the 2 pieces you're making the plugs out of was a good choice. I might have use Gorilla glue, but that's mostly because I used it to laminate my transom.

I'm not sure I understand the geometry of the plug shape. Since you're hanging an OB mounted to a bracket off the existing transom, that has a hole thru it, I probably would have pulled all the old & used all new plywood in the transom. Esp if the new bracket will bolt thru any of your plug.

Fabrication looks great, looking forward to seeing how it all comes together.
 

outdrdave

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Re: OMC 3.0/Stringer I/O Conversion to Evinrude 225 Outboard project

I wanted strength and finish, thus why I chose the maple. One sheet of ply works for this project and I sense the advice given. In essence, the strength of the maple will be worthless if it doesn't hold together and it will likely fail. Shame to put all this work in and not use a wood thats better suited for the environments.

Most of the marine grade ply I've seen are pine based which means weak in my world. I do believe now that a solid lesser strength wood is better than a rotting strong wood. I'll be picking up some arauco ply, and recut and laminating the plugs. Of the plys available locally, I believe Arauco to be the best option.. time will tell.

Thanks.
 
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jbcurt00

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Re: OMC 3.0/Stringer I/O Conversion to Evinrude 225 Outboard project

Help me understand.. most marine grade ply is pine based. In my world, pine is a weak soft wood.

I want strength even if that means extra work to seal it up.

I'm not sure that's ^^^ the real question, is it? If you want to discuss merits of Marine VS interior grade plywood (even if it's cabinet grade) we can, but MOST of the resto's @iboats don't use marine because it's either very hard to find or very expensive. It still needs to be treated w/ either epoxy or polyester resin (if poly then cloth/mat too) for a fiberglass boat rebuild. Tin boats are a bit different, but personally I'd rather use epoxy for them too over other choices.

Like I said before, Marine grade is at the far end of the best plywood to use scale. IMO, and WOG's I'm fairly sure, interior plywood is at the far other end of the spectrum of plywood choices. There are many choices that would be better, primarily because they use waterproof glue in their laminating process.

As most fiberglass resto's progress, it is usually evident that the question shouldn't have been IF the plywood gets wet, it should have been WHEN the plywood gets wet. They're boats, they do get wet.

Get a piece of ACX plywood & cut a 6"X6" piece out of it. Do the same w/ the interior plywood you bought.

Compare the edges. Are their ANY voids along the edges where the layer didn't quite get 100% coverage w/ it's veneer?

I think there's an edge void along the bottom left curve of the plug, in this pix, you glued up recently, possibly 2:
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And 2 more in the edge of the ply plank at the bottom of the pix, just after where it crosses the sawhorse.

Now imagine sampling the 2 types of plywood w/ a 100 6X6 squares. Typically, not 100%, but typically, some exterior grade plywood has fewer voids in the layers of veneer then interior grade. I really like working w/ MDO, it's rated for exterior use (they make wooden concrete forms w/ it & exterior road signage), has 1 extremely smooth face (I buy the good 1 face/side version), and it's nearly void free.

It's not an exact sampling, but if there are edge voids on the plug you made, and on a few of the 6X6 squares we imagined cutting, how many voids are in the layers of plywood you can't see on the rest of the plug you made?

Here's some info on plywood grades:
Plywood Grades and Bonding Types - Woodworking Tips

BTW: this is the standard required for marine plywood: BS 1088

If you are sealing all the plywood you put into a boat (it sounds like you plan to, and you should) I'm not sure you're getting the added strength benefit you think you're getting using the interior plywood you chose.

From elsewhere online:
In the case of interior grade plywood, Urea Formaldehyde glue (known in the industry as UF) is the most common type of glue used for joining the plies together, while in the case of exterior grade plywood, Phenol formaldehyde (known as phenolic resin) which is a superior quality glue is used.

Strength comparison:
Exterior grade plywood is stronger (has better glue shear strength) when compared with interior grade plywood.
Differences in Cost:
Exterior grade plywood is also known as BWR (Boiling water resistant) plywood and it costs more than the interior grade plywood (which is known as Commercial ply).

Resistance to water:
The phenolic resin used in exterior plywood is actually a plastic resin. Phenol is the substance from which plastics are made. This resin imparts better water-resistance properties to plywood. Quality tests of exterior plywood, often involve submerging the plywood in boiling water for upto 4 hours, and then taking it out and checking its strength and other qualities.
For all practical purposes these types of plywood are considered adequately water-proof and hence can be used outdoors or are often used in making kitchen cabinets and the like.
UF resin on the other hand is not as good as phenolic resins, and hence interior grade plywood can get damaged if exposed to water. This is the reason why its used indoors (kept away from water).

I am NOT telling you to start over, or that you've made the wrong choice (for you, your budget & your boat build) I am asking questions about how & why you chose what you chose, and if we choose to build our boats differently, nothing wrong w/ that.

Same as the question about the plywood plug's shape & how you came up w/ it.

Perhaps you weren't aware of the benefits of Phenolic Resin & waterproofing, perhaps you were. But mostly for those that follow, I thought it relevant info.
 

jbcurt00

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Re: OMC 3.0/Stringer I/O Conversion to Evinrude 225 Outboard project

I wanted strength and finish, thus why I chose the maple. One sheet of ply works for this project and I sense the advice given. In essence, the strength of the maple will be worthless if it doesn't hold together and it will likely fail. Shame to put all this work in and not use a wood thats better suited for the environments.

Most of the marine grade ply I've seen are pine based which means weak in my world. I do believe now that a solid lesser strength wood is better than a rotting strong wood. I'll be picking up some arauco ply, and recut and laminating the plugs. Of the plys available locally, I believe Auauco to be the best option.. time will tell.

Thanks.

Oops,
You edited your last reply while I was on a conference call and hadn't yet hit the post reply button for my latest post.....

Sounds like you have a good revised plan. Auraco is made w/ waterproof glue, & if memory serves (iffy at best) it's got more veneer layers then ACX does.

It is always a challenge to pull back & possibly wait during a project. For additional or different materials. I don't think you will regret using an exterior grade ply.

Having such high traffic, I find Iboat's forums are usually much quicker response times to posted Q&A's.
 

outdrdave

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Re: OMC 3.0/Stringer I/O Conversion to Evinrude 225 Outboard project

Thanks for all the info buddy.
 
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