Floor replacement cutting question

Axkiker

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 18, 2013
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264
Im almost to the point where I can cut the floor out of my boat. I have read a couple ways to do this. One where you cut as close as you can to the hull then grind it flush. The other where you leave a few inches out which allows a little flat area to glass too. Is there a recommended way>

My thoughts were that if I leave a few inches I would cut in a 45 degree angle. This would allow a larger lip which I hopefully can squeeze some pb into. Smooth that off then glass over it. My floor is solid for the most part other than in a few central areas. So im not really worried about rotten wood near the hull.

Any thoughts or accepted methods?

Thanks
 

greenbush future

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Aug 28, 2009
Messages
1,814
Re: Floor replacement cutting question

Pictures would help, but if it were mine, I'd cut close, and remove all old flooring edges, then re-tab to the fresh glass on the hull of the boat. Leaving the old seems it would create weak spot in any new floor application. It's a big job re-doing a sole, but let the pro's pipe in, I'm a rookie doing the same job you are, that's how I do mine, and it's rock solid.
 

Axkiker

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Nov 18, 2013
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264
Re: Floor replacement cutting question

Pictures would help, but if it were mine, I'd cut close, and remove all old flooring edges, then re-tab to the fresh glass on the hull of the boat. Leaving the old seems it would create weak spot in any new floor application. It's a big job re-doing a sole, but let the pro's pipe in, I'm a rookie doing the same job you are, that's how I do mine, and it's rock solid.

Also what thickness of flooring is everyone using. Mine came with 1/2" which kinda surprises me. Anyone thought about moving up to 3/4.

Maybe its overkill but when I spend this much time cutting and itching and cutting and itching and grinding and itching some more I tend to go with overkill. Any reason not to go with 3/4
 

Axkiker

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Nov 18, 2013
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264
Re: Floor replacement cutting question

Also, how is everyone removing the carpet glue from the inside of the hull. Everything else to me seems straight forward. The glue issue is something im dreading.
 

eggs712

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 8, 2012
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334
Re: Floor replacement cutting question

I'm sorry to tell you but any soft spots almost always indicate an entirely bad floor, stringers, and possibly transom. Boats rot from the bottom up, so one soft spot probably means that all of the wood is rotten on the underside. I would go ahead and cut out the entire floor and start fresh. Cut as close to the hull as you can and grind out the rest to the hull.
 

Axkiker

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Nov 18, 2013
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Re: Floor replacement cutting question

I'm sorry to tell you but any soft spots almost always indicate an entirely bad floor, stringers, and possibly transom. Boats rot from the bottom up, so one soft spot probably means that all of the wood is rotten on the underside. I would go ahead and cut out the entire floor and start fresh. Cut as close to the hull as you can and grind out the rest to the hull.

Yeah, I know thats typically the case but ive already pulled up several spots and most of the flooring is solid. I think what happened was it was left covered for a long period of time and water leaked in a few select spots and softened those spots. Ive also drilled the stringers in several spots and am not finding any wet wood so "Hopefully" im safe. knock on wood!!!!
 

JASinIL2006

Vice Admiral
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Feb 10, 2012
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5,545
Re: Floor replacement cutting question

The only way I found to get the glue off the inside of the hull was to use an angle grinder and a 60- or 80-grit abrasive disk. Not a fun job.
 

greenbush future

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1,814
Re: Floor replacement cutting question

The thickness I went with was either 5/8 or 3/4 I went with the Arouco (sp) stuff, I used it in on the transom too by gluing two pieces together to get the right thickness. Stuff is nice plywood. My stringers were not wood on my Lone Star, they were all formed glass with a stainless steel plate that ran down the center on the top surface of the stringer. There were 3 stringers on my boat, it's a 16-17 footer.

Depending on what kind of boat you have, the deck surface might need to be exactly what came out, for fit and finish.
 

Yacht Dr.

Vice Admiral
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Feb 26, 2005
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5,581
Re: Floor replacement cutting question

Whats up Axkiker..

Im just cruising through the forums tonight and saw your post.

I just cut away the bad spots and tie them at a stringer and/or bulkhead. Essentially cut out the bad..then find where a stringer and bulkhead is ( if I can ). Then set the depth of my skill saw to that of the deck and cut right down the center of said stringer or bulkie. That way I can 'share' it with the support of the existing floor layout. If I cant share any support then I install 'cleats' to the underside of the existing floor to 'tie' the new and old ply. That said.. I would leave the edges at the hull and the tabbing. Cleat your new wood at the hull side of your replacement panel. Then you could just glass over your replacement wood and end it at the radi at your hull.

So in theory and best case you would have only one side to 'cleat' and the other 3 are shared on a stringer/bulkhead. Now if your stringers/bulks too thin to share then you can screw and glue some ply cleats on the Sides of them to support your new panel.

I would use the same thickness personally. However..if you want a little bit more support then make a second panel slightly smaller.. then screw and glue that to the fitted deck panel.. so it can drop lower than the cleats or shared supports and still be flush on top. Of course you may want to consider sealing your edges with resin when you put it all together. Dry fit everything..mix some resin and start screwing :)

Good luck and kick Ax !
 

laxray

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jul 11, 2009
Messages
43
Re: Floor replacement cutting question

I'm in the process of doing a stringer and floor replacement. In pulling out foam I found a drill with a wirebrush end is doing a great job. I like to have the shop vac near by to suck up the dust and foam. I would bet the wirebrush end would make quick work of the glue. No one has mentioned if you are just replacing sections, you can take a router and make cuts so your new and old floor overlap/fit together. You may want to look into that.
 

Yacht Dr.

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Feb 26, 2005
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5,581
Re: Floor replacement cutting question

Oh yea..I forgot about the glue deal thing.

Its hard to tell what you should use..yes a wire wheel can be used sometimes..on a grinder. But if its for prepping for the tabbing then most times the good ol' fashion scrape and grind method works quickly. Gear up and get it over with :)
 

Axkiker

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 18, 2013
Messages
264
Re: Floor replacement cutting question

Well im back at it... Its always the thing you didnt think would be an issue that kicks your butt., well the glue is kicking my butt!!!

I purchased the wire wheel for my grinder and all it seems to do is smear it. I also purchased some adhesive remover that I brushed on then started the process of scrapping. It does work but still leaves an extremely sticky surface with smeared glue.

Any other thoughts. I plan on using one of the bed liner kits like monstaliner but sure dont want to go applying it over tacky glue. Im not even sure if its safe to go back with carpet over it.

Anyone else had this issue who can offer advice.
 

GT1000000

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
4,916
Re: Floor replacement cutting question

One other possible tool to use for glue removal is one of these...

Its like an eraser, only round and you attach it to a drill motor...depending on how much area you have to cover, you might need more than one...
BTW, I have a question...if you don't mind...
Why haven't you started a one stop restoration thread for your project...it would really help all of us to keep track of your progress better and keep everything better organized for future reference...both for us and you?
 

Axkiker

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 18, 2013
Messages
264
Re: Floor replacement cutting question

One other possible tool to use for glue removal is one of these...

Its like an eraser, only round and you attach it to a drill motor...depending on how much area you have to cover, you might need more than one...
BTW, I have a question...if you don't mind...
Why haven't you started a one stop restoration thread for your project...it would really help all of us to keep track of your progress better and keep everything better organized for future reference...both for us and you?

That is a good suggestion and I will do so right now.

As to the eraser idea I dont think that will work. I have A LOT of surface area to cover and that would take a year. I have used those for sticker adhesive removal and they work pretty well. Not sure they would for this application.
 

Yacht Dr.

Vice Admiral
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Feb 26, 2005
Messages
5,581
Re: Floor replacement cutting question

Im telling ya Ax.. a 5" grinder and 24 grit. Its going to heat up and smear initially..but you just keep at it. Dont worry if your disc gets clogged it will still heat up and smear the glue. Do a section ( smearing and slinging as much off as possible ) with your clogged disc..then let the glue cool down for a minute..then go at it with a new disc.

Find the right angle to hold the grinder so it doesnt tear your wrist apart when trying to hold and control your machine.

Good luck.
 
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