1975 Crestliner Muskie Restoration

Joserojas46

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Oct 27, 2013
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Ok so update on the Muskie I got the engine and drive up and running now that I have removed the engine and drive I have a clear view of the rotted engine supports and stringers I did not anticipate how much work this may take. The transom is in good shape I was surprides to find that other than where the transom plate goes there is not much wood there maybe a 36" square section the rest is glass so with that being said Is it common to find such little wood on the transom on tri-hull boats? Any feed back would be appreciated Thanks.
 

jbcurt00

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Re: 1975 Crestliner Muskie Restoration

Yes, stringers & engine mounts are quite involved, if you have to dismantle the boat to replace them (and the deck) I'd probably do the transom too, unless you are 100% positive there is NO waterlogged plywood ANYWHERE on it.

Yes, a smallish pad transom is common on quite a few boats, I/O & OB alike. Some can be redone as a full width transom, some can't. Of those that could be, some are redone full width, others are redone to original specs.
 

Joserojas46

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Oct 27, 2013
Messages
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Re: 1975 Crestliner Muskie Restoration

Ok I will further inspect the transom to be sure but in regards to the stringers and engine mounts would it be a problem if I only remove the top of the fiberglass and keep the sides as borders to just re insert new wood or would it be better to just cut them completely out and reglass the whole thing? And is there a perticular 1 x 6 wood I should be using I have seen a lot of post with Douglas fir and I stopped by my local Home Depot and found that they do carry that there as well would that be sufficient for the stringers?
 

jbcurt00

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Re: 1975 Crestliner Muskie Restoration

Take them out 100%, grind the area smooth to good glass and rebuild from scratch. You want ALL your new work to become a part of the boat. The only way to ensure that is to remove everything & redo it.

I'd recommend you look for MDO, Aurauco, or ACX plywood for your stringers, transom & deck. ACX is the lowest cost of the 3, it's exterior exposure rated plywood, and made w/ waterproof glue. The A face has few surface defects (if any), the C face isn't but could be used for the down, back or non-visible side, and the X stands for exterior grade. BCX is much more common, and may be easier to find.

Here's a helpful graphic for how to put them back:
"Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms"

Compliments of WoodOnGlass ^^^

I'd use plywood before I used dimensioned lumber. It's stronger at a given thickness & length, it's more stable (tends not to be warped or twisted once you get it home, and a 12ft 1X6 is likely to be cupped, warped & twisted) and should be cheaper to buy in the necessary quantities. If you need stringers longer then 8ft, you can join 2 lengths together to get the necessary length. We'll get to that, when you're closer to doing the put back.

For now, spend some time reading thru some threads, lots of good info in most of them. It doesn't have to be a Crestliner, generally fiberglass boats are built similarly....

If you get to cutting & grinding, be sure to suit up, and wear all the correct PPE..
 
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