CSM or Not on deck repair.

[dmar11bb]

Re: CSM or Not on deck repair.

 

[dmar11bb]

Re: CSM or Not on deck repair.

So the area with the arrow is the side of the boat that is glass over foam. I have o tie th deck back into this side. What do I use for a substrate for the side?

 

[dmar11bb]

Re: CSM or Not on deck repair.

You can see when looking towards the bow there is foam that appears to be hanging down from the upper deck. That area was just glass that had foam shot behind it. No wood at all so how do I lay up the glass on the vertical?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: CSM or Not on deck repair.

Ok, I gotcha now!

Do you still have the glass sections that were cut out? In my opinion it would be easier to patch them back in than to re-fabricate new ones. That's what I'd do.

 

[sphelps]

Re: CSM or Not on deck repair.

I agree with WOG . But if the pieces are not usable maybe install the deck then use some 1/4" ply to rebuild the vertical pieces set behind the existing glass . Build up the needed thickness . Pb in a nice cove on the bottom and vertical inside corner .Glass it all in , fare , and re gellcoat . Others may come up with something different .

 

[dmar11bb]

Re: CSM or Not on deck repair.

Got it. I still have the pieces. They are in good shape. Ill look at it today. If I use 1/4" ply, I can just glass it in to the back of the existing I guess. Ill try to keep up the pics as I am also replacing the transom and installing a outboard motor transom platform.
Again thanks for the help.

 

[sphelps]

Re: CSM or Not on deck repair.

If ya have the pieces you may not need the ply . Make sure you grind the edges down past the gell to give it a gradual tapper and to help with the adhesion . Good luck !

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: CSM or Not on deck repair.

Glad to hear you still have the pieces. I'd recommend using cleats to re-attach em and help with alignment.

 

[dmar11bb]

Re: CSM or Not on deck repair.

Thanks so much. I do have the pieces. I will update pics as I am also doing a transom replacement and an outboard motor bracket with platform

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: CSM or Not on deck repair.

Interesting delema..

Well..do you have to tie the deck to the verticals? or can you tie the deck to the hull and then tie the vertz into the deck. Im sure we would have to see the pieces...but if its going to be a jigsaw puzzle then it might be best to just start from scratch. Im almost thinking door skin ( formica ) to form the walls and then laminate over that. Formica is bendable and can make curves and some compound curves. Kinda hard to see the angle of the dangles from your pics though. Im sure its not Flat therefore the bendable form comes to mind.

Dave

Edit to add: Whats the thickness of the walls ?

 

[dmar11bb]

Re: CSM or Not on deck repair.

 

[dmar11bb]

Re: CSM or Not on deck repair.

Ok just to clarify. If you look at my terrible drawing, (no laughing) not to scale of course, you can see that the ply deck was unsupported and was just laying on the foam and tied into the side wall that was just glass over foam. I think I am going to mechanically fasten a piece of ply to the existing glass on the side wall and tab that into the new deck then glass the whole thing in. Bad idea? the pieces were chopped up pretty bad as I had to cut them horizontally and vertically to get them out.

 

[dmar11bb]

Re: CSM or Not on deck repair.

is it a bad idea to attach ply to the side of the upper stringers to extend up to the bottom of the deck? I have read that a hard connection to the hull is not a good idea?

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: CSM or Not on deck repair.

I think I am going to mechanically fasten a piece of ply to the existing glass on the side wall and tab that into the new deck then glass the whole thing in. Bad idea?

This is exactly how I was thinking of doing it. Lay the ply down and tab that to the hull. Then form the sides with something like thin formica..then glass the sides and the deck all at once. Of course you want to put some "cleats" around your existing deck edges so you have something to mechanically tie your new deck to ( 3/4" ply about 4" wide screwed to the underside of your deck leaving 2" under bite for your new deck to fasten to ).

The only problem per say is that you dont really have much to tie your fiberglass to on the top edge. You have what looks to be about a 1" lip. Thats probably going to have to be ground off ( and most likely left off ) so you can grind/bevel your glass sides. There is a way to keep that lip..but its going to require some skillful grinding .

 

[dmar11bb]

Re: CSM or Not on deck repair.

Thank you for your reply. so it is ok to tab the deck directly to the hull? I have read that a hard connection to the hull can cause hull problems. Is this true? I was thinking I could attach ply to the vertical portion which is glass only then glass down to a new deck.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: CSM or Not on deck repair.

Thank you for your reply. so it is ok to tab the deck directly to the hull? I have read that a hard connection to the hull can cause hull problems. Is this true? I was thinking I could attach ply to the vertical portion which is glass only then glass down to a new deck.

You are confusing hard connection w/ hard spots. You can glass the deck to the hull sides, no need to add plywood 1st.

However, the deck WOOD should not be directly in contact w/ the hull, a small gap that gets filled & fillet'd before you glass it to the hull.
"Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms"

Great graphic for the work pending ^^^.

Having the wood stringers or deck in direct contact w/ the hull, along a narrow edge, creates a HARD SPOT, a point load of a sort, and when the flexible skin of the boat pounds thru waves/wakes it can move. If it then contacts a hard edge, spider cracks can develop radiating out from the contact point.

So keep the edges of the plywood 1/4" +/- away from the hull of the boat, fill the gap w/ resin filler, create a small cove fillet along the joint & layup your glass.

 

[dmar11bb]

Re: CSM or Not on deck repair.

Thanks so much for clearing that up. I was confusing the two. I was away dealing with a family illness last week but will be back to it this weekend. I will plan on bringing the deck right to the hull (leaving a small gap as described) then tie the side into that. I really appreciate everyone' help so far. Ill post more pics

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: CSM or Not on deck repair.

Thank you for your reply. so it is ok to tab the deck directly to the hull? I have read that a hard connection to the hull can cause hull problems. Is this true? I was thinking I could attach ply to the vertical portion which is glass only then glass down to a new deck.

You could use ply..but I like using something thin that can bend and make complex curves. Are the sides flat? In any case the reason I suggested doing the whole sides and deck all in one shabang is so you dont have lumps from your tabbing the sides to the deck. Get it perfect how you want it and evenly lam your glass. This way it will be Much easier to fair in.

As far as hard spots..Your basically making a 'shoe' for the energy going across from your hull to the deck/stringers. As far as I know its really more important not to have little spaces of wood in direct contact with the hull. Thats a lot of PSI spread out over 1" per say instead of having a deck or stringer thats touching across the whole length. But seeing as its just too much trouble to make an exact fit we just keep the whole darn thing off the glass. Now bulkheads should Never touch..just tabbed in. You could use anything or nothing along your deck tabbing..just as long as its bonded well and properly to both surfaces.

Looking forward to them pics