Century Coronado restore

[Rickmerrill]

So if 89 gets pulled over tonight how's he suppose to explaine a hot sudsy tank and a chain???

 

[nurseman]

No really officer, it's not what it looks like...

 

[89 resorter]

I'll just tell him that this is what some crazy Okie told me to do ....... I"m sure he will understand :lol:. If you don't hear from me in awhile you'll know what happened (anyone know a good bail bonds man?)

 

[Woodonglass]

Tell him it's a Delivery for Tony Soprano and he should Fuhgeddaboudit!!!!

 

[nurseman]

Or this one.

 

[89 resorter]

Got some good weather a couple weekends back and got the chance to get started on my transom replacement. This picture shows the individual tiles being laid out on the foam that I used to pattern the transom. I stole some of the wife's tack paper and taped it onto the foam so that I could keep the individual pieces in the right place when I moved them around.

I then mixed up the epoxy glue to mayo consistency and glued the individual pieces to the transom. This picture shows the first couple of rows with the clamping sticks in place......this ended up being the most time consuming part of the job since each stick had to be cut to the correct length.

The last pic shows all pieces glued in place and PB fillets around the perimeter of the transom.

Temps are supposed to be in the mid 40's this weekend so I should be able to get the building to glassing temps with the wood burner. All of the threads that I have read have a transom made of a solid piece of wood which gets the first layer of glass on it before being glued to the transom. It is then tabbed into place. Since mine is made up of the individual tiles, I am thinking that I should now proceed with one layer of cloth over the transom wood to join all of the tiles together then tab that to the hull. Hopefully this all makes some sense ...... if not, I am always open to suggestions from those that have been there & done that.

 

[Woodonglass]

You're dead right!!! I'd recommed 6oz cloth tabbed 6" out onto the hull. The transom looks FANTASTIC!!! Just for future reference for anyone else that might do this in the future, the "Clamp Sticks should be about 1/4" thick and 1" wide and about 1/4" longer than needed. (kinda like a wooden yard stick) This allows them to be flexed into place and then pressure will be applied to the piece.

 

[sphelps]

Nice work 89 ! Cool boat ! Never seen a transom go in like this before ... Looks better than factory so far !
Tagging along if there's room .....

 

[89 resorter]

Welcome aboard Sphelps! The design of the transom is definitely different ..... This is my first restore and I spent a lot of time studying transom replacements done by other members before I cut into this one so you can imagine my surprise when I found this design. Thankfully WOG saw this before and has been a great help guiding me through it.

 

[jc55]

Way better than factory...nice work indeed!

 

[nurseman]

That is a nice looking transom! Tedious process, but it looks nice and strong.

 

[89 resorter]

You're dead right!!! I'd recommed 6oz cloth tabbed 6" out onto the hull. The transom looks FANTASTIC!!! Just for future reference for anyone else that might do this in the future, the "Clamp Sticks should be about 1/4" thick and 1" wide and about 1/4" longer than needed. (kinda like a wooden yard stick) This allows them to be flexed into place and then pressure will be applied to the piece.

WOG, would there be a problem with using the 17oz cloth that I already have to tab in the transom (since I don't have 6oz and would have to order it)? With whatever cloth I use, my plan was to go 8" wide with the first tabbing (4" on transom / 4" on hull) followed by a second 12" wide tabbing (6" on transom / 6" on hull) pretty much as outline in your "Fab decks, stringers and transoms" link.


Also want to thank Sphelps, jc55 and nurseman (and anyone I may have missed) for you encouragement ...... It really does go a long way to keep me psyched up to keep moving forward and is proof of what a great find this forum is for anyone interested in DIY boating!

 

[Tnstratofam]

I just wanted to drop in and say Great Job on your transom. I remember seeing your old transom earlier in the thread and thinking how in the world is he gonna pull that off. Well my friend you did it, and did it well! Really nice work. WOG is a lifesaver, and a real asset to this forum. Actually all the people here are great, and inspiring. Just as you are sir. Keep up the great work, and you'll have her sea worthy again in no time.

 

[kcassells]

Wow is right! Super nice job with formatting all the pcs. like that back like they did yesteryear. My understanding is that "checkering" of wood adds a lot of strenght.
I'm on board for the ride.
Nice work!

 

[Woodonglass]

No problem except that it's harder to wet out. Since you're using epoxy I don't see the need for a double tabbing. I'd do a single 12" (6" on 6" off) and then do a full overlay of the 17oz fabric. Pre roll the resin on the transom then apply the fabric and get the resin to flow up thru the cloth as best you can. Then apply more on top to get it to fully wet out. This will ensure a good bond from the bottom up.

 

[89 resorter]

The temperatures did not cooperate this weekend so I did not get a chance to tab and put the final covering on the transom. It looks like the wood burner I installed in my un-insulated building draws the line at getting it warmed up enough to glass at 35 degrees F. Since I could not glass, I decided to work on the swim platform which came out way better than I had hoped.

Before


After


I think it should look pretty good once I get it oiled up. The long term forecast for next Saturday is 38 degrees so hopefully the wood burner does its job so that I can do mine.

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhmm, YEAH!!! That's gunna be nice!!! What process are you gunna use??

 

[89 resorter]

It's been awhile since I had a boat with at teak platform but when I did all I used was Starbright teak oil which seemed to do the trick as long as I kept up with it. If there's a better process then I'm all ears.:ear:

 

[Woodonglass]

It depends if you want to maintain it or want to try and make it maintenance free. As you know the Oil requires frequent "Re-Do's". You can use a combination of epoxy and High UV Spar Varnish with Non Skid additive to make it more Maintenance Free. This 2 part video might be of interest...

Although not shown in the video, it's possible to sprinkle Pool filter sand over the surface while the varnish is still wet to achieve a Non Skid surface and if it's a bit to rough another coat of varnish will "Tame" it down considerably.

 

[89 resorter]

I'll have to give this one some thought. While I like the thought of maintenance free, I also love the natural look of oiled teak. I had a 1987 Supra ski boat for 18 years and managed to keep the teak looking brand new by cleaning and oiling it several times per season. More importantly, I kept that platform covered while it sat in the dock unused which kept the sun and weather off it. Having said that, I no longer fall into the "spring chicken" category so I have to weight that work against the maintenance free idea ...... I guess I have some time to think it over seeing how the boat is still pretty much an empty hull.