17 sea ox restore

REELMIN

Cadet
Joined
Feb 28, 2014
Messages
18
I am begining a resto of a 1979 17' sea ox center console i found cheap . I have not done this before so this is a first for me. so here is where i am at. transom cap and wood removed deck removed and stringers also. i know my typing skills are terrible but please bare with me. hull and transom down to bare fiberglass sides of inner hull also fabrication of new stringers 95% complete fabrication of new transom complete and i have moved to the fit up phase i will post some photos soon my question is about the fiberglass i will be using polyester resin for the entire resto i have a buddy that can get fiberglass cloth from a guy that builds wind turbins the props. and he gave me 5 remanents of mat 50'' x20' i know 1708 is the hot mat but they do not use that what they do use is quadaxial fiberglass cloth in 22oz no mat also 10oz biax with 3/4 oz csm mat on one side and he also gave me a 38''x100 yards of 1.5oz csm will this work for transom and stringers if so how many layers will i need .,,thanks
 

GT1000000

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
4,916
Re: 17 sea ox restore

I am begining a resto of a 1979 17' sea ox center console i found cheap . I have not done this before so this is a first for me. so here is where i am at. transom cap and wood removed deck removed and stringers also. i know my typing skills are terrible but please bare with me. hull and transom down to bare fiberglass sides of inner hull also fabrication of new stringers 95% complete fabrication of new transom complete and i have moved to the fit up phase i will post some photos soon my question is about the fiberglass i will be using polyester resin for the entire resto i have a buddy that can get fiberglass cloth from a guy that builds wind turbins the props. and he gave me 5 remanents of mat 50'' x20' i know 1708 is the hot mat but they do not use that what they do use is quadaxial fiberglass cloth in 22oz no mat also 10oz biax with 3/4 oz csm mat on one side and he also gave me a 38''x100 yards of 1.5oz csm will this work for transom and stringers if so how many layers will i need .,,thanks
Hello and welcome to the Iboats dry dock, REELMIN...
Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on what you have gotten yourself into.
The first bit of advice I can give you is to post up some pictures of your project.
It will entice the membership to chime in because we love pics and it will help us see what you see and be better able to give advice.
I can understand that your typing skills are somewhat lacking, but you should try and slow it down a little bit and try to better separate your questions into good old regular sentences...
We'll work on proper grammar and punctuation, little by little...:)
The reason being is that a lot of the guys who are ready, willing and able to help you out, are also usually helping out a ton of other folks, and it is much easier to quickly read through a posting and get a good understanding of it before trying to propose advice.
From my reading of your post, I understand you have done all the demolition work and all of the necessary grinding and have properly supported the hull to keep its shape and have cut most of the structural pieces needed to start putting it back together...RIGHT???
OK, then...I also get that you will be using polyester resin and some 22 oz. quadaxial cloth without any CSM, plus some 10 oz. biax with CSM.
You also have on hand enough 1.5 oz. CSM to build several battleships...:lol:
The question you are asking is how much material to use to glue your transom and stringers in...
The short answers are...
You can use one layer of CSM between the two [ I am assuming you are using two 3/4" plywood plates to make up the thickness of the transom...and the reason I am assuming is because of the first advice that I mentioned...Pictures]...transom plates, then seal them with one complete layer on both faces and the the edges, with CSM.
Then, if the inside skin of the hull is just as smooth and flat as the transom plates, you can do the same to glue them into the hull, IF NOT, you would be better off gluing them in with PB...
Then, when they are in place, you can tab them in with CSM and finally add a layer of the quad cloth...
Here is a link to a very good description by "Woodonglass", of just how to do the transom and the stringers...
http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...go-splashed-w-pics-384982-25.html#post3586813
You can choose to go overkill and add more cloth over the layer of 22 oz. quad, in which case you could add a layer of the 10 oz. biaxial, but that would be about the only major change I could see to the above method.
Installing the stringers could be done with PB after they have been sealed in a layer of 1.5 oz. CSM prior to being installed, then tabbed in place with a couple layers of the CSM, then slightly larger tabs of the 10 oz biax.
Looking forward to pics of your project.
Best of luck and have fun!
GT1M:D
 

REELMIN

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Joined
Feb 28, 2014
Messages
18
Re: 17 sea ox restore

Here are some of the pics i will try to get some more on this weekend
 

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REELMIN

Cadet
Joined
Feb 28, 2014
Messages
18
Re: 17 sea ox restore

More 17 sea ox resto pics to enjoy
 

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Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Re: 17 sea ox restore

GT1M has given you some great advice. Just remember when using Polyester resin, you must always use CSM prior to applying fabric or cloth. The cloth that has CSM sewn to it can be applied without a Layer of CSM but I always put one down anyway. For your transom, I'd do this. Tab it in with CSM and a layer of the 10oz Biax. Finish with a Full layer of CSM, Followed by full layer of the 22 oz and then finish it off with a final layer of the 10oz biax. It'll be a TANK!!! Stringers I'd use CSM, and two layers of the 10oz Biax. First one 1/2 way up the stringer and 6" onto the hull. Last one All the way to the top of the Stringer and 10" onto the hull. Cap em off with torn Hairy CSM.;)
 
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jbcurt00

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Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,871
Re: 17 sea ox restore

You'll also want to ease the transitions from the plane of 1 stringer face to the 'sistered' plywood's stringer face:
attachment.php


those 90deg corners at either end of the overlap can be difficult to adequately cover w/ glass. I'd suggest tapered fillets several inches wide, instead of coves, from 1 face to the next. Think 45deg's only longer & not as steep. 2 or 3 to 1 taper. If it's 3/4" plywood, that means the fillet is 1.5-2.25" long.

Nice work.

BTW: There are no demerits for typing or fuzzy camera work here in the iboats University boat building course :watermelon: Plenty of detail in the other pix :)

Don't take no carp off GT about building a tank or having enough CSM on hand for a fleet of boats. Seen his build yet? GT's new avatar should read 'Your dang right I overkilled it'..... Yeah, he & WOG will be invaluable resources.........
 

REELMIN

Cadet
Joined
Feb 28, 2014
Messages
18
Re: 17 sea ox restore

Thanks. all you guys for the advice i am very greatful to have it .As far as the stringers and transom i will be rounding the edges .And where the stringers overlap i am going to cut each one staggered from one another and sister plate them together. I am trying to cut and do as much mock up and pre fit and prep as i can without any glassing .Weather here is very cold and the barn i am working in isnt heated.The only thing i glued up so far is the two 3/4'' plys for the transom i did this in my basement .I used titebond 3 water proof glue to glue the 3/4'' plys together is this ok? And is there anything other than peanut butter used to fill imperfections in the wood ? I am going to build a seat in front of the console today. Will put some pics of this on tomorrow .
 

GT1000000

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 13, 2011
Messages
4,916
Re: 17 sea ox restore

Great looking work you have done so far!

Titebond 3 is one of the recommended glues for laminating...I used it to build my super long stringer blanks and lam up my transom...
Worked perfectly!
PB is one of the preferred methods of filling any of the imperfections because of its ease of mixing to whatever consistency you need for the job at hand, you can build it up as thick as you need, and it gets hard enough to keep working with quite fast depending on your temps.
You can mix it up with different additives, depending on your actual needs...If you need to sand it smooth after filling, use microballons instead of cabosil/aerosil as a thickening agent...this works well when you are using the thickened resin as a fairing compound on a surface to get it nice and smooth prior to painting/finishing.
Here is a long, but excellent link to about as much information as you could possibly ever need about resin...
http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...ake-fiberglass-information-thread-286013.html
This section also contains a ton of other related info...
http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...r/how-tos-other-great-information-288451.html

A good resource for information on the different types of materials available to work with resins can be found at the US Composites site...
Fiberglass , Epoxy , Composites, Carbon Fiber - U.S. Composites, Inc.

Keep up the great progress!
 

REELMIN

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Joined
Feb 28, 2014
Messages
18
Re: 17 sea ox restore

sea ox progress continues
 

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REELMIN

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Joined
Feb 28, 2014
Messages
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Re: 17 sea ox restore

finished stringer fab sister plates rounding edges also bilge area pump layout and under deck plumbing and work on console and seat/storage box continues
 

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REELMIN

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Feb 28, 2014
Messages
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Re: 17 sea ox restore

more pics to come comments and advice welcome
 

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ahmincha

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 21, 2012
Messages
1,512
Re: 17 sea ox restore

Wow REELMIN great work I am glad to see another cc being reborn. Tagging along and don't worry my grammar and punctuation stinks and they have not kicked me off yet
 

greenbush future

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Aug 28, 2009
Messages
1,814
Re: 17 sea ox restore

Better than new IMO, nice looking boat, even better looking fab work on your part. I would use as much of the free material as you can, those are heavy boats from the factory, but yours will last a lifetime. Keep your documentation, when you sell her, she will command a premium price. Or just run it till ya die and give it to your grand-kid knowing he will be safe!!
 

REELMIN

Cadet
Joined
Feb 28, 2014
Messages
18
Re: 17 sea ox restore

Thanks ahmincha i am glad i am not the only one i feel better now And nothing is better than free materials another unbelievable deal i stumbled upon the other day when at lowes the other day was they were discontinue carrying 3m 5200 man can you believe they sold the remaining 28 caulking gun tubes for 10cents on a dollar that came to 1.18 per tube if i would take them all you can bet i did lol And yeah i picked this boat up off craigslist for boat motor and trailer for $1300 the motor is a 1988 evinrude 60 with good spark and 125psi across all cylinders i have not tried to start it yet but it looks like it run i know the enricher needs replaced not working and i imagine the carbs will need redone but i could not see this boat with its beautiful lines ending up in a landfill because of rotten deck and stringers i have a 2000 wellcraft cc and its hull is built no where near as good as this thanks for all the comments and keep watching more pics of my progress to come
 

REELMIN

Cadet
Joined
Feb 28, 2014
Messages
18
Re: 17 sea ox restore

console work 001.jpgconsole work 002.jpgconsole work 004.jpgconsole work 005.jpgconsole work 007.jpgStill to cold to for fiberglass so worked console switch panel and some teak wood trim i can than pre wire fuse panel cant seem to decide if i am going to move wheel to top of console ah decisions-decisions
 

Willyclay

Captain
Joined
Sep 8, 2006
Messages
3,240
Re: 17 sea ox restore

they were discontinue carrying 3m 5200 man can you believe they sold the remaining 28 caulking gun tubes for 10cents on a dollar that came to 1.18 per tube if i would take them all you can bet i did lol

Attaboy!
 
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