1992 Lund Pro V DLX 1775 Restoration

k_Woolfsmith

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Aug 24, 2013
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11
Hello Iboaters,
Our boat has needed a new deck since we bought it three years ago. This is the start. Yesterday the boat was taken to a Lund dealer in Lloydminster Alberta to have the motor removed and stored. The boat is as indicated, a 1992 Lund Pro V, DlX 1775, tournament series boat, with a 1992 Evinrude Intruder 150hp outboard. We are the third owners, and it's time for a tear-down and rebuild. The plan is remove the decking, check the foam, check the transom, re-wire, re-arrange some storage, and repaint. The plan is marine ply or cabinet grade, spar varnish, new wiring front to back, marine vinyl and marine carpet.
Today was Day 1 of deconstruct. Removing the seats, the seat mounts, the console, and all the accessories bolted everywhere. There were some challenges; the steering column, rusted machine screws and bolts, rivets and nuts in odd places, and a ton of messy wiring. Here are a couple pics.
 

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jigngrub

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Mar 19, 2011
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8,155
Re: 1992 Lund Pro V DLX 1775 Restoration

Those Lunds are real nice tin cans and built really well!

Since you have rotten decking and rusted metal parts your foam is more than likely saturated. Hopefully your transom will be sound, but with a 150 on it, it will warrant checking.
 
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jbcurt00

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Re: 1992 Lund Pro V DLX 1775 Restoration

The plan is marine ply or cabinet grade, spar varnish..................
Yes marine, or there are other good choices

NO cabinet grade, it's usually interior ply & not constructed w/ waterproof glue.
 

Teamster

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Re: 1992 Lund Pro V DLX 1775 Restoration

Tagging along,...........
 

classiccat

"Captain" + Starmada Splash Of The Year 2020
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Re: 1992 Lund Pro V DLX 1775 Restoration

awe-yeah!

:hungry:
 

jasoutside

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Re: 1992 Lund Pro V DLX 1775 Restoration

Cool, a Lund project:eek:nthego:
 

Brian 26

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Re: 1992 Lund Pro V DLX 1775 Restoration

Cool, thanks for sharing. Is the master baiter sticker staying?
 

k_Woolfsmith

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Aug 24, 2013
Messages
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Re: 1992 Lund Pro V DLX 1775 Restoration

Destruction Day 2,
A solid 6 hours in the boat today. A lot more rusted screw heads, some stripped nuts & bolts, some cutting with a recip saw. The deck is out, the left side compartments are also out. It appears their was/is water all through the hull. The seat posts were cut right through the desk and left a perfect entry location for any water that landed inside the boat. Any hints for next time for seat posts? The foam in the front is moldy, and wet throughout. I "APPEARS" as if all the components, stringers and bracing is aluminum. Does this sound right? I don't have the fuel tank out yet, so haven't had a peak in there yet. I will be ordering some pour in foam when I get to measure up all the small spaces. Was at a fabric shop today scoping out some marine vinyl for the side paneling and compartments. I was thinking of using small bits of the canned expansion foam just to make small barriers for the Pour-In stuff later. Because I will be re-arranging the deck layout, and removing a live-well, I was thinking of putting in a reserve fuel tank. Any ideas or comments from the more experienced of the forum?
 
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classiccat

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Re: 1992 Lund Pro V DLX 1775 Restoration

quite possibly, the largest compilation of aluminum boat rebuilds on the planet: Starcraft Rebuilds and Restorations.

That's not uncommon for the seat-posts to be cut through the deck. The boat was either stored in the elements or you have a leak.

Strip that bad-boy down and perform a leak test.

Structural components (stringers, bracing, etc.) are aluminum.

Be careful with foam-in-a-can; it might not be safe for aluminum. Many of us use closed-cell extruded insulation foam boards (pink or blue) from the local big-box stores.
 

pckeen

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Jun 20, 2012
Messages
2,067
Re: 1992 Lund Pro V DLX 1775 Restoration

NO cabinet grade, it's usually interior ply & not constructed w/ waterproof glue.

Ditto on that: Use Marine Plywood, Arauco Ply, or another exterior grade plywood (NOT TREATED). Do not use an interior plywood of any kind.
 

Watermann

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Re: 1992 Lund Pro V DLX 1775 Restoration

Welcome to the iboats dry dock!

Very nice Lund you have there and a ton of work ahead of you too. Glad to see your wanting to breathe new life into the boat rather than sell her off and get a newer one. A couple of the don'ts and few of the do's have already been voiced so far.

It's strange how many boat builders use ferrous metals in their construction, knowing that they will corrode and rust out down the road. Even the big names take that short cut leaving a trail of rust and corroded aluminum behind them.

Looking forward to seeing her brought back to life.
 

jigngrub

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Re: 1992 Lund Pro V DLX 1775 Restoration

Destruction Day 2,
A solid 6 hours in the boat today. A lot more rusted screw heads, some stripped nuts & bolts, some cutting with a recip saw. The deck is out, the left side compartments are also out. It appears their was/is water all through the hull. The seat posts were cut right through the desk and left a perfect entry location for any water that landed inside the boat. Any hints for next time for seat posts? The foam in the front is moldy, and wet throughout. I "APPEARS" as if all the components, stringers and bracing is aluminum. Does this sound right? I don't have the fuel tank out yet, so haven't had a peak in there yet. I will be ordering some pour in foam when I get to measure up all the small spaces. Was at a fabric shop today scoping out some marine vinyl for the side paneling and compartments. I was thinking of using small bits of the canned expansion foam just to make small barriers for the Pour-In stuff later. Because I will be re-arranging the deck layout, and removing a live-well, I was thinking of putting in a reserve fuel tank. Any ideas or comments from the more experienced of the forum?

I suspect a previous owner had a go at your boat and that's why you have the rusted and stripped hardware, Lund doesn't use ferrous hardware and never has.

Cutting pedestal seat base holes through the decking is OEM and is the best way they can be installed. I suspect your boat was either left tied to a dock on the water or stored outside uncovered with the bilge drain plug in allowing water to stand in the bottom of the boat. This is a very common problem we see with used boats here. People don't want to take the time to cover the boat to protect it, and they don't want to pull the drain plug so they don't forget to put it in before launching next time.

All aluminum below deck structure is one of the beauty things about aluminum boats, no rot below deck to worry about.

I'd avoid the spray can foam, it's a very low density foam and will become water saturated rather easily. When you buy your 2 part expanding foam, get the 4 lb. density... it's much more water resistant than the standard 2 lb. density.

Rearranging the inside of a boat is part of then fun of restoring an old boat, you can build it any way you want to better suit your needs.

For your new decking you should consider MDO (medium density overlay) plywood, this plywood is made to be used outdoors and is very water resistant and strong. They use it to make exterior signs and we use it on the job site to form up concrete walls, other people use it to build the hulls for their home made wooden boats. It's very strong water resistant and durable.

The urethane sealer you mention is low on my list of sealers, yes it's cheap and readily available... but not very durable or long lasting. 2 part marine grade epoxy resin is a much better choice for a durable and long lasting sealer.
 

Eyegitr

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Jun 15, 2013
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2
Re: 1992 Lund Pro V DLX 1775 Restoration

I've got the same boat, only a 93 and mine is red. Looking to just replace some soft flooring boards so will be checking this thread. I've owned the boat for three years, my first so everything I do is new to me. Interesting to see the different comments and the suggestions on different wood to use for the flooring. Hoping I can peal the carpet up and get it to lay back down. I'm not doing a restoration just yet......but need to fix the floor.

Interesting........I just checked and no one in town carries MDO and of course no one will order just one sheet for me.......I suppose I'll have to go to marine grade.......
 
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k_Woolfsmith

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Aug 24, 2013
Messages
11
Re: 1992 Lund Pro V DLX 1775 Restoration

Well folks,
I opened up the transom this week, took two separate core samples in areas I suspected signs of rot. Nada, ziltch. I took the cap off the top of the transom, dry and solid, drilled two samples in and around the engine mounting bolts... dry and hard. I am hesitant from here to pull more tin off, and remove what seems to be a stable and strong transom. Any suggestions? I picked up my plywood. Much of the woof coming out was 1/2", but it seems to flimsy, I am thinking of using 5/8".

To the gentlemen above that wants to pull the carpet and lay it back down. Forget it. There's no way your getting it up and any shape that wants to go back down. If you have a soft floor, your rotting. I can commit to you, I suspected a little rot, I had LOTS. The foam was saturated with at least 20L of water. It's been a tough destruction, and lots to go, but you will feel better for taking on the project.

One thing that surprises me so far, is the amount of wire inside a boat. I've been pulling wires, bundles and miscellaneous wires for weeks now. My new fuse panel arrived, along with some LED convenience lights. Unfortunately the lights will go back, they are not much bigger than a quarter, and I can't see working very well.

I am about to go scanning the forum, but what do people do to fill old screw holes in the transom. I've pulled off the old depth finder, and speedometer line, and want to make sure no water infiltrates after I am done. This boat is going to be painted before it splashes again.

updates coming as things get moving. I'm struggling with photos, so we'll see how that works out later.
 

bonz_d

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Joined
Apr 22, 2008
Messages
5,274
Re: 1992 Lund Pro V DLX 1775 Restoration

Nice, we don't see many Lunds on here.

Going from 1/2" to 5/8" is a good idea. A bit stronger w/o adding much weight. Good trade off IMO. Have you seen any of the new LED light in use? Though small in size they give off a lot of light and use much less power. I went from carring a Mini Maglight to an LED Rayovac at work. Much brighter and now I'm only changing batteries once a week.

Try Photobucket for your pictures, it really works well.
 

Eyegitr

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Jun 15, 2013
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Re: 1992 Lund Pro V DLX 1775 Restoration

Hey Woolfsmith..........how can I tell if the foam is saturated.......I've never seen the inside of a boat before......
 

jbcurt00

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Re: 1992 Lund Pro V DLX 1775 Restoration

Hey Woolfsmith..........how can I tell if the foam is saturated.......I've never seen the inside of a boat before......

Start a thread & you'll get the same help offered here.

It usually isn't difficult to tell the foam's waterlogged, and it often smells like stink bait that got left in the bottom of the boat.
 

Watermann

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Re: 1992 Lund Pro V DLX 1775 Restoration

JB water weld works good for filling holes and it sands pretty easy if done the next day. I would even pack it in the sample holes you drilled into the wood to seal them up too if your set on leaving that transom in. If it were me though I would yank it out and put in a new one, it's not tough and then it's new not decades old wood.
 

k_Woolfsmith

Cadet
Joined
Aug 24, 2013
Messages
11
Re: 1992 Lund Pro V DLX 1775 Restoration

Valid point, I am making a change to the gunnels now (previously unplanned), so it will make it easier now to pull the transom. I destroyed the last of the foam in the rear 18" of the hull. IT WAS SOAKED, the garbage bag it filled weighs in at around 45lbs.

Question: While I have everything out, should I be replacing the steering and throttle controls? They were old, plastic, and ugly.
Question: All the carpet lining the hull is out, besides hard work, how does an angle grinder and wire brush work for cleaning the glue off?
 
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