1984 Bayliner Capri 1600 Restoration

azmav

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Apr 16, 2013
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Hey all, getting back to this job I started early part of last summer but gave up after the heat got too bad here in Arizona. I have some complications to overcome and I am looking for some advice on what is most crucial and any tips or tricks. The issues are thus,

1. Once the floor came out, the extreme heat (121 degrees Fahrenheit some days) caused to bow to sag against the front bumper where the ratchet point is. Please see pictures.

2. The boat sat for 5 years before I got it and has some depressions where it sat on the bunkers of the trailer all along the strakes.

Top cap is off for transom replacement, but should I put the cap back on before attempting stringers and floor? (keeping in mind this bayliner had limited space around the area of the bilge so doing all that with the splashwell in the way might be tricky) Also, I need to pull the sides of the bow back together a bit to help pull the front end back down. Thinking about something like what Opps did with a machine threaded rod or using cables and turn buckles.
 

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GT1000000

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Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri 1600 Restoration

Should be no problem getting it back into shape.
Use whatever combination of straps, lumber and bracing to bring it back into the correct dimensions...
You may have to set the cap back on just to be sure that you have it in the right shape and build a cradle/support system to be sure to hold it in the correct shape.



I am assuming that the stringers are also out of it?
Once you get it cradled/supported, build back the structural support by installing the transom and the stringers/bulkheads.
You could also stiffen the structure some more by adding a new "nailer" to the upper, inner perimeter of the hull for the eventual re-attachment of the top cap and rub rail...



Have fun!
GT1M:)
 

azmav

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Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri 1600 Restoration

Thanks GT! The idea I had in my head for a cradle did not allow much room for reshaping, but I like what I see in the first picture, and yes stringers are out.
 

azmav

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Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri 1600 Restoration

Thankfully, just a few hours in the sun yesterday and some of the shape has returned already!
 

azmav

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Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri 1600 Restoration

Well here is the progress with building a cradle. Feeling doubtful about the ability to pull this hull back into shape, but I will continue to work at it. As can be seen, even with a 2x4 pulling down on the prow, the boat still bows upward. The cradle is flexing too much and I will have to reinforce it before pulling down any further, and considering using heat lamps to see if I can soften the hull a bit.

Bayliner (89).jpgBayliner (90).jpgBayliner (91).jpg
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri 1600 Restoration

IMHO you're gunna need some weght and some heat. I've seen some hulls with some serious "Hooks" in em where the rebuilders built fulcrum cradles similar to yours and then placed a lot of bricks inside the hull for weight and then believe it or not used turkey cookers to boil 5 gallon buckets of water and filled the hull 1/3 full of hot water to makeit more pliable to bend it back into shape. It worked!!!! When the glass cooled back down it held its shaped and they layed more glass and some reinforcement tubes inside the hull to aid in retaining the shape. Trying to bend it back, "Cold" is not gunna work IMHO!!!!
 

GT1000000

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Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri 1600 Restoration

You will have to add some 45 +/- degree braces to help stiffen the cradle...they don't have to be 2X4's... 1X4's, even 1X2's will work...
Also you need to add some support to the V of the hull...that will help to push it back into shape...look closely at the pic I posted and you'll see what I mean...
Try using some ratchet straps in different locations and see what effect they have...
Another trick you can use is to build an inner skeleton to push sections of it back into shape...
I did this to help the hull keep its shape when I flipped it to prep the bottom of the hull...



Keep at it, if it was flimsy enough to sag out of shape, it should be flimsy enough to get back into shape...
Good luck!:)

PS- I agree with woody that if it is too cold it won't be as flexible...heat or lots of sun will help...
 
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azmav

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Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri 1600 Restoration

A combination of straps, hot water, and lumber got her into shape, mostly. Going to let it sit for a bit and see if it relaxes. Meanwhile, I will finish out my grinding, and replace the transom while the weather is so cool, (those bunny suits are murder in AZ summer). Once that all is complete, I will test fit the cap and may just complete the rest of the work with it on, although I was hoping to redo the gelcoat with cap off and boat upside down.

Bayliner (92).jpgBayliner (93).jpgBayliner (95).jpg
 

GT1000000

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Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri 1600 Restoration

Yeah! That is definitely looking WAY better...
It's a very good idea to let it sit that way as long as possible, while doing most of the other prep work.
Once you are satisfied that the cap fits back on correctly, it should be no big deal to "Lock" the hull in the correct shape using something along the lines of my inner bracing method so you can remove the cap and flip it to do the bottom of the hull...
Best of luck and keep us posted!
GT1M:D
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri 1600 Restoration

Some Cardboard tubes cut in half and glassed to the hull with CSM at the appropriate places in the hull where it was "Bent" would go a long way in helping it remain in place.
 

azmav

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Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri 1600 Restoration

Thanks GT! Wood, I know that you mentioned those before and I have seen people use something similar for stringers. Would they be permanent or just temporary to hold the shape?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri 1600 Restoration

Permanent! Not Stringers though, just supplementary hull supports to help ensure that the "Hook" does not come back. I'd lay them diagonally/longitudinally between the stringers across the point where the "Hook" was. A 3' tube cut in half with a couple of layers of CSM would be all that's needed. You'd be surprised how much strength it would provide and with almost no added weight.
 

azmav

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Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri 1600 Restoration

Well the transom is out! Most of the grinding done, I will be putting this baby back together soon. Wow, what a trip this has been. Next one will be easier:D

There is very little rot in the pieces from the transom. I wonder if maybe it has been replaced before. I doubt it. If this is indeed factory original, then here are a few more interesting tidbits on the construction of these older fiberglass boats.

1. The transom was in 3 pieces, the main center piece being the thickest.
2. The two outer pieces were cut from the same template, that template has a lower corner cut out to make room for a stringer which butted directly to the hull.
3. Since the pieces are symmetrical, and only one had a stringer passing through it, the other piece just had a bunch of filler shoved into the cut out.
4. One of the outer pieces was barely secured to the hull and a large amount of 2 part foam had pushed its way in behind the piece.
5. It appears that CSM and resin were used as the adhesive to attach these transom pieces.
All in all, very poor construction.

Bayliner (98).jpgBayliner (96).jpgBayliner (97).jpg
 

GT1000000

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Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri 1600 Restoration

Just wanted to pop in and make sure you are planning to install a full width, one piece, double laminated transom and not try to copy what was originally done/redone?
The main reason I say this is that it will make for a more solid build and having the transom doubled up all the way across makes for a much stronger place to attach stern eyes and any ski tow eyes you may want to put on...

The diagonal, glassed in, cardboard, half tubes are a really good idea, but if you install the new transom along with the new stringers, while the hull is in the correct shape, you may not have to add the cardboard...just a thought...

Oh and BTW, forget the "cut-outs" that were made on transom for the stringers...when you install the stringers, just butt them up to the transom and tab them to it...also makes it stronger...

Keep up the great progress...:)
 

redneck joe

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Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri 1600 Restoration

isn't there a wood substitute for transom material?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri 1600 Restoration

I'm in 100% agreement with GT1M on the 1Piece transom and butting the stringers up to it. Much better method of doing it. It's kinda hard to tell but it appears that the outer skin of the stern MIGHT not be totally flat. Is this the case??
 

GT1000000

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Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri 1600 Restoration

It's kinda hard to tell but it appears that the outer skin of the stern MIGHT not be totally flat. Is this the case??

Ya know, now that you mentioned that, I went back and took a closer look at the pics and I believe you are correct!
It almost looks like the stern was designed as an angled transom, very similar to my bass boat, but not as pronounced...
Hey azmav, a request, if I may...take a couple of good side view and maybe a top down view of the stern...let's see what's going on there...
Thanks!
 

further

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Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri 1600 Restoration

Hey guys, figured I'd throw my .02 in here and join on this project if ya dont mind. My maxum 17' was similar to this hull. In fact, bayliners and maxums are very similar from what i understand. My transom was a single piece but didn't extend all the way across. Here's some pics that show how mine was setup.




Hopefully this helps some.
 

GT1000000

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Re: 1984 Bayliner Capri 1600 Restoration

Hey guys, figured I'd throw my .02 in here and join on this project if ya dont mind. My maxum 17' was similar to this hull. In fact, bayliners and maxums are very similar from what i understand. My transom was a single piece but didn't extend all the way across. Here's some pics that show how mine was setup.

Very good point further...there are many boat designs that use this type of transom, but I noticed that the original design of yours also incorporates Knee Stringers or knee-type bracing, which help to distribute the load and add a lot of strength to the design.
We need to know if azmav's boat used the same design concept...
 
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