Deck Hatch Cover Options and Construction?

[minuteman62-64]

In the process of decking over the bow area of my skiff - from the existing bow seat to the stem. Deck will be elevated 3" above current seat elevation. Won't be a casting deck (too tippy), however, I will step on it when launching from my trailer and retrieving.

I will have an access hatch for the storage underneath. Looks like I can buy ready-made hatches with covers, approximately the size I want, for $50-$100. However, using stuff I have on hand, plus a few thousand $$$ of my time, I can make a hatch and cover in exactly the size and shape I want. The answer is obvious - I'll make my own. However, although I've seen a number of hatches from above, I don't know how the proper construction techniques. Also don't know all the pros and cons of flush vs elevated hatch cover for my application.

I won't be walking around on the deck, although I will be stepping on it, including the hatch cover. Hatch does not need to be watertight.

First diagram shows hatch location and approximate size. Decking surface will be 1/2" ply - mdo or ABX (haven't decided yet).

Second diagram shows cross sections of the cover alternatives I've identified, including how I think each would be built.

So, my questions are: pros and cons of each option and advice on construction techniques.

Appreciate any advice.

 

[wrench 3]

Re: Deck Hatch Cover Options and Construction?

Since your not going for water tight, I'd go with the flush design so that you're not tripping over it when jumping on and off. But the supports below the deck would be better if they were wider so that they ran back further from the opening. Thus putting more of a pull on the fasteners and less of a twist. Also I'm having trouble figuring the distances from the back corners of the opening to the nearest support. If it's to great you may need to add another brace.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Deck Hatch Cover Options and Construction?

I prolly would have added this to your other thread to follow forum recommendations but maybe not.

I'd go with the flush design as well. I'd use MDO and I'd use Epoxy to coat everything with. I'd Screw and glue the 3" cleats to the deck and leave a 3/4" exposure for the lid to sit on. I prolly would not use hinges but would embed magnets in the lids and the lips to hold everything in place. Give everything 2-3 coats of Rustoleum Pro Oil based Paint and Go Fishin!!!!! It'll last for decades.

 

[minuteman62-64]

Re: Deck Hatch Cover Options and Construction?

I prolly would have added this to your other thread to follow forum recommendations but maybe not.

Whoops. Didn't mean to violate protocol. I was making posts here to ask questions/get advice. I was thinking I'd use my post in the Projects thread to show where I'm going with the answers/advice I received. Figured I'd get better responses to my questions when posed in stand-alone threads.

 

[minuteman62-64]

Re: Deck Hatch Cover Options and Construction?

Also I'm having trouble figuring the distances from the back corners of the opening to the nearest support. If it's to great you may need to add another brace.

The support positions (the ones that angle towards the bow) are not fixed yet. I want to have room to install the rivets (and remove, if necessary). Once I get the Port-Starboard framing in place I will experiment with the locations of the angled members.

Roger on the need to evaluate if more bracing will be needed and on making the supports below the deck wider.

 

[SigSaurP229]

Re: Deck Hatch Cover Options and Construction?

I can assure you this the flush mount is definetly going to look the best. The only problem you are going to have is this, it isn't strong enough to do with just half inch plywood. If you are going to be stepping on it I would want the deck around it to be 3/4" with the hatch lid itself being at minimum 5/8"

 

[Grandad]

Re: Deck Hatch Cover Options and Construction?

Hi minuteman. I think flush is best. As for thickness, I don't think you'll have any problem with 1/2" plywood, since your span is only about a foot. My 40 year old Starcraft has the original 1/2" plywood floor, untreated, w/o resin on 24" centered stringers. There's a little spring, but not excessive. Around here, I'd use exterior grade fir ply. You don't need to build a brick outhouse. - Grandad

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Deck Hatch Cover Options and Construction?

I agree with Grandad. 1/2" will be plenty strong for a 12" opening. And I'd also install 1 or 2 of these...

 

[minuteman62-64]

Re: Deck Hatch Cover Options and Construction?

I agree with Grandad. 1/2" will be plenty strong for a 12" opening. And I'd also install 1 or 2 of these...

I'm hoping 1/2" will do - don't want too much additional weight in that bow section.

I'm familiar with those "handles". Put them on the hatch door in my back yard deck 30 years ago - still look like new.

 

[minuteman62-64]

Re: Deck Hatch Cover Options and Construction?

I prolly would not use hinges but would embed magnets in the lids and the lips to hold everything in place.

My boat is strictly salt water. Any corrosion issues with magnets? Any made specifically for this sort of application? Source?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Deck Hatch Cover Options and Construction?

No corrosion with Magnets. Rare Earth magnets. HarborFreight...Rare Earth Magnets - Rare Earth Magnet Set, 10 Piece

They work GREAT!!!

 

[minuteman62-64]

Re: Deck Hatch Cover Options and Construction?

Great input. I'll go with flush mount, minimum 3/4" "ledge" for support, minimum 3" wide pieces to make "ledge". Once I get the framing complete I'll lay some 1/2" ply over and do a few test bounces. If there's a stiffness problem I can beef up the frame structure.

Looks like I'll actually have a trapezoidal hatch opening, to optimize the size to make sure I can get my anchor/line container in and out.

Finishing up the frame now. I'll be posting my construction progress on that and the deck/hatch over on the "Projects" thread.

Thanks, guys.-