2007 SeaPro 206DC Windshield Replacement

[CherGriffi1965]

o.k. So I have a 2007 SeaPro 206DC that I have managed to shatter the windshield and am in need of a replacement windshield. There are several issues I am faced with, the first being that SeaPro is no longer manufactured, so I can no longer contact them for a replacement part number. The second being that I have not seen that many of them in my boating down here on the Gulf coast in Alabama, as I originally purchased this boat in South Carolina four years ago and brought it here, so it's not like I can ask my neighbor to check his for a part number. So I am hoping someone out there has one and can hook me up with some info that will help me in securing the need information required to insure that I get the correct replacement winshield for my boat. Any help would be greatly appreciated. From what I remember, the number(s) needed were located on the bottom left-hand side of the glass. I have attached a photo of the boat pre-accident.

Thanks for looking.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 2007 SeaPro 206DC Windshield Replacement

Uhmmm boat windshields are one of the hardest parts of a used boat to locate. It's a commonly asked question here on the forum and not one that has a quick and easy answer. Best bet is probably one you've already tried. Craigslist, EvilBay, Googling Boat Scrap Yards etc. There is a Taylor Made Windshield MFG online but they ARE pricey. I wish you luck but that's about all I have to offer. I guess there is always the "Make Your own out of Plexiglass" option. We have a lot of guys on here that have gone that route. Not the easiest thing to do but it is an option.

Here's an example of one...

I have a 1993 Mariah Diablo that had a broken windshield when I bought it. I could have had an original glass replacement for a mere $3885. A plastic's company could have provided one if I sent them the window frame and 8 weeks later and around $6-700.

I removed the left front window as they are the same size. I placed double sided tape on the windshield, applied construction paper and traced around the outside edge. I removed the construction paper and cut around the edges including the pencil line. I now had a template for my new window....figure 1.

Next I took small pieces of duct tape and placed them on the inside/outside edge of the left front window. I then took 1x8 boards and cut them to align with the curvature of the window. I numbered these 1, 2, 3, & 4. You also have to measure how far apart each board is from the one next to it. Beings you are constructing the opposite sided window...when you go to construct this form, the one on the top is now the one on the bottom as you will be flipping this form over. This took me about 3 hours to measure.....trim...and construct. It helps to have spare pices of lumber and an air nailer. Figure 2.

I then placed my paper template on the form and traced around the outside edge, so I'd know where the edges should line up when they are heated. Figure 3.

I contacted a glass company and they cut out my template using marine grade plexiglas (1/4 inch thick) for $60. I then used spring clamps and attached the glass to the flat edge of the form. I'd bought a heat gun and started heating away. Do NOT buy the cheapest Heat Gun. After 2-3 hours, I'd returned mine and bought a better gun (Wagner) for $40 dollars. This time I placed the glass in my mold at the curved edge. I'd clamped it with a 1x2 and started to heat away. You have to heat with the curve, going top to bottom.
Plexiglas melts at 250 degrees. My heat gun has a digital readout and I had it way above that. Go back and forth about an inch from the glass. If you nick the glass with the gun it will leave a scar, it will buff out later. The weight of the other end is all it takes for the glass to lay down as it heats up. Don't bother trying to clamp it, if it is not bent all the way..clamping will not bend it further. You may want to clamp it when you are done so it keeps its shape as it cools. You may hear a slight cracking sound as it heats and that is normal. It takes patience and 3 hours to complete this step.
If I had to do it again....I would have gotten some aluminum sheeting used for ductwork and made a mold using that. Put it in the frame and solder the mold in place. The window did need a minor adjustment with the very back upward corner. It is in the boat. Last figure.

The glass was $60, heatgun $40, 1 x 8 lumber $10. Probably 12 hours labor. Saving thousands or hundreds of dollars.....worth it. If you have questions, hit me up.

Greg Attached Thumbnails

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 2007 SeaPro 206DC Windshield Replacement

I don't know about now, but A LOT of 1960 & 70's boat makers all used the same windshields. Post up a pix of what you've got now, post accident.

You can try a few of the places on this list:
http://forums.iboats.com/johnson-evinrude-outboards/salvage-yards-wilde1-438822.html

Craigslist & ebay may be your best bet though........

You should be able to tell how wide, tip to tip the windshield was, how long the side windows extend back along the gunwale & how wide the operable section was, even if the windshield is removed.

I bet it's a common size/shape windshield.......