3m 5200 adhesive/zinc anode

boater1234

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 6, 2010
Messages
869
I'm going to apply this to the bottom of my boat to fill in pitts.Here is the question i have.I know it says to wipe area down with acetone before use,after you apply the acetone and it dries do i just apply the 5200 right after or do i wash it down one more time with freshwater and then let it dry and then apply?

It says don't use any alcohol because it won't cure so thats out.After the 5200 cures can it be sanded?What i want to do is put a nice skim coat on the bottom of the boat and then sand it smooth,painting it is out because the 5200 flexes and from what ive read will just crack off the area of the 5200.

I'm just going to add a zinc anode to the bottom of the boat and that should take care of anymore pitting from what i read,is this right?Also what size anode would i need for a 1436 jon boat?
 

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,863
Re: 3m 5200 adhesive/zinc anode

Um, might ought to try using JB Weld or similar to fill the pits, not 5200.

Post some pix of your pitting & you'll likely get several suggestions & possibly more info about the anode.

Are you boating in saltwater?

Leaving the boat in the water for extended periods of time?

Weeks +/- at a time?

In a marina slip?
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Re: 3m 5200 adhesive/zinc anode

This is why the Forum rules and recommendations want you NOT to make multiple posts on the same subject. As stated in your other thread on this same boat and same subject, this would be my 1st choice...Evercoat along with just painting it with Rustoleum with added hardener.:rolleyes:
 
Last edited:

boater1234

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 6, 2010
Messages
869
Re: 3m 5200 adhesive/zinc anode

Well thats why i have this thread,it's not the same,the other thread is painting a jon boat,this is a whole different thing even know i have my pics of the pitting over there,i should have started a new thread as this one is with the pitting issue first,i'm done with painting it,there is no point,all i want to do is know what i asked,i'm just filling in the pits and sanding them and thats that.I just need to know exacly how to do the steps so the 5200 will stick,i'm not going with jb weld as it will not flex and crack,i need a flexible sealant and i already have the fast cure 5200.

From what i gather most people use it on an aluminum jon boat for flexibility reasons,i just need to know if i wipe with acetone,then let dry,then apply the 5200 or do i wash the area down after the acetone dries before applying it.Whats funny is the package says to clean and degrease the area with acetone before application,but doesn't mention whether to just put straight on after it dries or clean with water first then apply.Then for cleaning any overuse it says use acetone to get it off.I'm just trying to understand how your suppose to clean the area with acetone before use because it will stick better but to clean up any mess it says to use acetone,How can it be to stick better if it's made to clean it up to,i'm confused that why i'm asking here.

The boat gets trailered in and out of the water,saltwater.
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
70,513
Re: 3m 5200 adhesive/zinc anode

Ayuh,.... 5200 is a Caulkin', not a skim coatin' product,...
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,499
Re: 3m 5200 adhesive/zinc anode

acetone is a solvent with a low flash point. it will clean the surface, and if you need to, help remove 5200.

however as WOG pointed out, you have two posts of roughly the same post. these should all be in the same post.

now on to your pits. post a pic. where are the pits? with your boat being trailered, do you have it sitting on treated plywood bunks? acetone will not clean corrosive pitting enough for anything to stick. that my friend, is a mechanical process such as sanding or grinding or even wire brushing to get to clean metal.

as Bondo pointed out. 5200 is calking, not a skim coat.
 

boater1234

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 6, 2010
Messages
869
Re: 3m 5200 adhesive/zinc anode

Then i will just put jb marine weld on the pitted area and hope for the best.I already sanded it down and i'm getting scared that i will make a hole if i go any further,I'm going to throw a sac anode on it fill it with some marine weld,sand it smooth and hope for the best,no matter what if i just left it alone i know for sure i will get a few yrs out of it.I asked my local marina who i have been going to for 15yrs.He said just throw and anode on it and that will stop it.
 

Bob_VT

Moderator & Unofficial iBoats Historian
Staff member
Joined
May 19, 2001
Messages
26,022
Re: 3m 5200 adhesive/zinc anode

You really can not paint over 5200 ........ paint will not stay on. Use JB weld or as was mentioned by me before use gluvit.

Forget putting an anode on a jon boat. That would be asking for trouble.
 

boater1234

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 6, 2010
Messages
869
Re: 3m 5200 adhesive/zinc anode

Your right bob on painting,do you think even know aluminum boats flex the epoxy will stay on without popping off?I don't plan on painting it till at least summer if i decide to keep it.Here is my plan,degrease the whole area good with acetone,i looked in the pitts and they have a light grey to dark grey color to them with very,i mean very light whitish powder.I would think the acetone would clean the area good,then i'm going to skim over the holes which are not that bad after i sanded them already.I just want to fill in the holes not the whole big area,then sand smooth and leave it as is.I just hope it won't pop off.Even if it does i can't see how it won't last for at least till this summer,then i'm going to decide whether to keep it or just sell it for a few hundred bucks.The boat as of now is water tight so nothing has eaten through.I'm just scared to sand it anymore as i don't want a tin foil boat.

Is it just maybe harder then i think to sand a hole through the hull,i'm going to use a 220 grit wed/dry if you think i should sand some more to completely eliminate the pitts.I just don't have any experience with sanding jon boats with pits.I would love to get all the pitts but like i said i'm a bit scared to sand anymore because i have no idea how deep they are.The aluminum is a .064 guage if that helps any.

As of right now if the jb marine weld will hold up then i will use it,i also have reg jb weld in my tool box not even opened if that will work just as well?Iv'e just been told by many people that it may pop off thats what scares me.
 
Last edited:

Georgesalmon

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 14, 2012
Messages
1,793
Re: 3m 5200 adhesive/zinc anode

with 220 grit it will take a week to sand through .063 aluminum. I say .063 because that's a standard AL thickness. You'll never be able to sand 5200 even if it cures for a year. I doubt JB weld will "pop" off because epoxies have a high elongation (flexibility) by nature. And if you use acetone to clean and let it flash off for a couple of minutes there is no need to wash with water before applying 5200. JMHO
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
47,499
Re: 3m 5200 adhesive/zinc anode

i looked in the pitts and they have a light grey to dark grey color to them with very,i mean very light whitish powder.I would think the acetone would clean the area good,then i'm going to skim over the holes which are not that bad after i sanded them already

not good enough. if you do not remove the corrosion, it is still there under the epoxy, and the epoxy will eventually come off. if you do not want to sand, then blast it. you have to get it all to shiny aluminum for the epoxy to stick.

Acetone is a solvent, not something that dissolves and cleans corrosion.

if you dont want to sand, then get an aluminum cleaner for removing oxidation. something along the lines of HVAC coil cleaner "pink stuff" spray it on, wait 3 minutes, then rinse off.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
Re: 3m 5200 adhesive/zinc anode

In my experience, JB weld is too difficult to work with and once dried it takes a belt sander with 60g to even touch it. I prefer marine tex because it flows on nicely, is more flexible when hard and sands way easier. To neutralize and clean the area, I use Heinz vinegar cleaning solution which is acidic and it helps take care of the alkaline corrosion. After it dries, use the acetone to clean the surface before applying the marine tex to the pitting. As far as the sacrificial zinc anode goes I really don't know if it would do anything for the hull, best thing is prevention by rinsing with fresh water after use in salt.

One other option for you is to paint the entire bottom with steel flex after filling the worst pitting. Here is a pic of a boat resto here where the steel flex epoxy coating was used.

http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...-nymph-ss160-1668-a-599194-2.html#post4296312
 

boater1234

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 6, 2010
Messages
869
Re: 3m 5200 adhesive/zinc anode

So your telling me i won't sand a hole through it even with an electric sander?I know i sanded down the rivets good so far to the point there almost flat.Ok i will sand some more if it will work.I will use 100 grit sand paper to try and get it all out.

So i have one person says the jb weld will probally hold up and one person say since all the corossion won't be out it will probally pop off at some time,now i'm lost.
 

81 Checkmate

Lieutenant
Joined
Jul 20, 2010
Messages
1,360
Re: 3m 5200 adhesive/zinc anode

I think what they are saying is.......If the prep on the pits is not done properly then threre is a posibilty the JB weld will pop off. If prep'd right it will stick and not come off.

Dont grind it anymore...get the coil cleaner spray like Scott said and prep the area.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
13,753
Re: 3m 5200 adhesive/zinc anode

or another option is to ignore people trying to help with other ideas and just argue about sanding.
 

boater1234

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 6, 2010
Messages
869
Re: 3m 5200 adhesive/zinc anode

Were do i get the hvac cleaner from,who sells it?If i do this then the prep is the aluminum cleaner,rinse off,then put acetone on it,let it dry and then jb weld it or marine tex it,whatever you guys say is stronger i will use?Then sand it smooth,go fishing,lol.Is this correct?
 
Last edited:

jbcurt00

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 25, 2011
Messages
24,863
Re: 3m 5200 adhesive/zinc anode

,i looked in the pitts and they have a light grey to dark grey color to them with very,i mean very light whitish powder.I would think the acetone would clean the area good,then i'm going to skim over the holes which are not that bad after i sanded them already.I just want to fill in the holes not the whole big area,then sand smooth and leave it as is.I just hope it won't pop off
As of right now if the jb marine weld will hold up then i will use it,i also have reg jb weld in my tool box not even opened if that will work just as well?Iv'e just been told by many people that it may pop off thats what scares me.
What I highlighted was important info to have, & I didn't when I suggested JB Weld. 5200 wouldn't hold up either if the corrosion & pitting isn't addressed 1st.

So i have one person says the jb weld will probally hold up and one person say since all the corossion won't be out it will probally pop off at some time,now i'm lost.

This ^^^ is what happens when you ask questions, don't provide all the info available to you & don't post pix to go w/ your descriptions & questions.

If you'd posted pix, someone might have seen the pitting & white powder & suggest how to address that 1st, so that what ever you do next WILL adhere properly....

You got good info here & the other thread that WOG mentioned. Pick a course of action that YOU understand, and proceed as you see fit. This isn't an oligarchy, educate yourself so that you can make an intelligent decision based on lots of info. How I prep an aluminum boat for repair and what worked for me, may not work for you.. Just as what worked for you, may not for me............

It hasn't been asked in this thread, but where are you doing this work? If you're outside in Canada, at this point, the weather may severely limit your choices. Living on a south Pacific island may limit your choices in other ways.
 

boater1234

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 6, 2010
Messages
869
Re: 3m 5200 adhesive/zinc anode

Fl is were i am.I found phosphoric acid cleaner at home depot.I guess i will use that.I'm also asking questions because i don't want to do this 3 times because i did something wrong.I have never done anything on an aluminum boat as far as repairs.I just want to get this right so it will last at least through the winter and spring,after that i'm buying a new jon boat.So i 'm just making sure it will last for like 6-8mths tops thats it.Heck if it will last without doing a thing to it i will just leave it be.I have a 6yr old child going with me so i just want to make sure it won't eat through thats all.I checked the bottom and it seems rather strong still and looks to me that it's no were near eating a hole through as of now,the boat will be trailered and never sit in the water except for the time i fish,i wash it off after every use to.I also filled the boat half way up to see if it leaks,it seems to be water tight as of now.
 
Last edited:

zool

Captain
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
3,432
Re: 3m 5200 adhesive/zinc anode

Fl is were i am.I found phosphoric acid cleaner at home depot.I guess i will use that.

That should work fine, just rinse it with water before you add the jb weld or whatever you plan to fil the pits with. ...
 
Top