14' 1970 Kennerbuilt Ski Barge project.

fshklr

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00G0G_elDvtR1OzFw_600x450.jpg00H0H_i8pnroCpZFN_600x450.jpgIMG_20131104_144803_698.jpgI just picked this boat up yesterday. Does anyone out there have any knowledge of these boats? I will need to replace the deck on the boat do to soft spots and a few holes. I may be wrong but the floor appears to be fiberglass I do not see wood.
I will start to inspect it further today.
If anyone has worked on one of these please let me know what I'm getting into.
I will post some pictures in a bit I know pics help with the advise given.

Thanks.
 
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fshklr

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Re: 14' 1970 Kennerbuilt Ski Barge project.

Started tearing out the floor yesterday. Being that it was so rotten it came Farley easy. The stringers are actually still in good shape.
The question I have now is how thick of wood do I need to use on the floor? And do I need to fiberglass over it or is there something else that's easier to use?

Any help and advise would be appreciated.
Thanks.
I have picture pit can't get them to post.
 

greenbush future

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Re: 14' 1970 Kennerbuilt Ski Barge project.

The pictures are what everyone is waiting for, you may need to have more post's at the web site before they will let you post your pictures. I think there is a minimum # but I'm not sure.
I will bet the floor of your boat is wood with glass over the top? Typically if the floor was say 1/2 inch ply, you should install exactly what was original. Keeping the floor at the same height is usually the best way to replace. It helps keep everything in the correct dimensions so when you do re-install everything, it all fits as designed. Cant wait to see the new boat.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 14' 1970 Kennerbuilt Ski Barge project.

What have you done to ensure that the stringers are, as you say, "In good shape"? Did you core sample them or just visually inspect them and tap on them with a hammer? How are you trying to post pics? Best way is to open a free Photobucket account and then use the IMG code to copy and paste them directly into your iBoats post. It's best to slow down and investigate the "Right" way to do things. You don't want to have to tear out a deck that was installed over bad stringers and transom. Have you inspected or core sampled the transom?
 

fshklr

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Re: 14' 1970 Kennerbuilt Ski Barge project.

IMG_20131104_172018_728.jpgIMG_20131104_144820_902.jpg00H0H_i8pnroCpZFN_600x450.jpgIMG_20131104_144803_698.jpg


I have not yet got to the transome as of yet.
As far as the stringers go I did what I guess would be considered core sampling. I drilled a few small holes in each of them in various spots. All were solid. There is a good coat of fiberglass on them.

And yes it was fiberglass over plywood. Do I have to fiberglass over the new plywood or is there something else that would work? I plan on going over board on sealing the plywood to make sure it as close to water tight as it can be.

Also the boat is only rated for a 50hp motor but it came with a 70 HP . What's the thoughts on this? Should I go back down to a 50 or is the 70 OK. With the whole insurance thing left out of the equation.

Thanks again.
 
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fshklr

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Re: 14' 1970 Kennerbuilt Ski Barge project.

After rethinking it. I've decided to replace the stringers as well in this rebuild. Figure if I'm doing this might as well take the extra time and replace it all.

Now the next question is for the stringers. Has anyone heard of or tried using the new fake wood decking material for houses?
Any thoughts on it?
 

jbcurt00

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Re: 14' 1970 Kennerbuilt Ski Barge project.

It's heavier then plywood, and you'd still have to encase it in fiberglass & resin, which likely wouldn't stick to the Trex (or similar)

Good to be thinking about how to keep the current condition from re-occurring, but a better plan would be to rehab it to the best of your ability, and then maintain it, store it bow high & keep it covered so that water doesn't infiltrate the deck causing the current conditions below deck.
 

fshklr

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Re: 14' 1970 Kennerbuilt Ski Barge project.

So what exactly are stringers made of.
I thought 1"?? ? But then I have been reading plywood??
 

jbcurt00

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Re: 14' 1970 Kennerbuilt Ski Barge project.

1X
2X
1/2" plywood
5/8" plywood
3/4" plywood
thicker plywood

Lots of options were used depending on what the manufacturer spec'd.

Other options too, but these look like 3/4" plywood stringers encased w/ fiberglass & polyester resin:
attachment.php


A good exterior grade plywood (ACX) properly encased in fiberglass, installed correctly in a boat that is well maintained, will last a very very long time. If you can find it & afford it, marine ply or aurauco ply are great choices too.

If you need to make a 3/4" +/- thick stringer, say 12ft long, by 9"+/- tall, you aren't likely to want to pay for it even if you find a 3/4" 4ft X 12ft sheet of plywood. You'll have to make them....

1 way would be to buy 3/8" 4ft X 8ft plywood & laminate the pieces together w/ a staggered seams:
3-8thsplywood16ftstringers.png
 
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fshklr

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Re: 14' 1970 Kennerbuilt Ski Barge project.

Thanks for the help and advice so far.
I am 95% done with having all the deck removed. Even the 11/2" lip connected to the hull. So Sat should be able to tackle removing the foam and the stringers. I hope I can get them out in one piece to make cutting the new ones easier.
Then a bunch of sanding to do I'm sure.

I've read different thing here how to install the new one. What is PB?
 

fshklr

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Re: 14' 1970 Kennerbuilt Ski Barge project.

So after further review of the stringers. They are not plywood but are actually 1?'s.
And are very solid.
So today my goal is to get all the old foam out so I can further inspect them. But if they are all as good as what I can see now. I may change my mind again about changing them. We will see.

Thanks again
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 14' 1970 Kennerbuilt Ski Barge project.

I agree IF you drill into them, especially down low and at multiple locations and ALL of the shaving are light colored and dry, then I see NO reason to replace them. If all the glass work is still in place with no de-lamination I think you're good to go. Fill all the Core Sample holes with 3M 5200 a Prepare to replace the deck. Make sure and core sample the transom down low as well
 

fshklr

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Re: 14' 1970 Kennerbuilt Ski Barge project.

OK been a little while sense I've posted. I got the wood laid down and screwed it down with stainless steel 10-11/2 screws.no nails.
Now to start on Friber glassing. I've read to use "PB" along the edges. But what is PB? And how many layers of resin and fabric/mat do I need to use?
Thanks for any and all advice.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 14' 1970 Kennerbuilt Ski Barge project.

So did you replace the stringers? What about the transom? What about all the foam?
 

fshklr

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Re: 14' 1970 Kennerbuilt Ski Barge project.

IMG_20131201_111814_838.jpgIMG_20131201_111814_838.jpg
Did not have to replace the stringers after all. They were so hard that I couldn't pull all the old nails out and had to cut some of them off. I got in a hurry and forgot to take pictures of it before I put the wood down. I left the old foam in and being my boat is little I used cans of exterior spray foam to fill the voids. It only took 5 cans to do the job. I then used a rubberized paint on every thing below deck including the bottom of the deck.
Now that I have learned what "PB" is and how to make it I can hopefully get started in on the fiberglassing this weekend. Good luck to me!
Now this boat is only 14' long and I picked up a small center console for it. So how far back or forward should it be placed?
Thanks again and hope these pictures show up.
 

greenbush future

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Re: 14' 1970 Kennerbuilt Ski Barge project.

Your pictures have appeared, nice boat there. Have you done core samples of your transom down low, where the rot usually starts. That would be the next logical step IMO because the stringers usually tie into the transom below the deck using fiberglass. Hate see you have to tear the floor out just to replace the transom. Your boat may be different, but many have what I described.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 14' 1970 Kennerbuilt Ski Barge project.

Be aware that if you use Resin from Home Depot, Lowe's or the Auto Supply stores, It ALL has Wax in it. This means that if it drys before you apply the next layer of glass, you MUST sand with 60 grit paper and wash down with acetone to get a good bond with the next layer of glass and resin. If you don't, the glass will de-laminate. This is why we recommend buying laminating resin that contains NO WAX. You have approx 12 hours between layups.
 
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