89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repairs.

Speak

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Hi guys, quick question.
In the middle of stringer/transom replacement on my 1989 bayliner capri and its getting cold now.(Ontario Canada) All my wood is cut and pretty much ready to be installed. I have access to a heated workshop but i cant leave the boat in the shop during the work week. My plan is to park the boat in the shop on a Saturday night so the hull can warm upto room tempreture. Then come in on a Sunday morning and bed in my stringers/transom.

my question is this. Will taking the boat in and out of the heated shop as pick away at the glassing be a problem?
And after i have bed the stringers in and transom when could i take it back outside into the cold.
This will apply also to when i glass the stringers and transom in. I was hoping that i could take it out of the shop the same day and put it out in the cold. Thoughts on this guys?


Cheers,
Stu.
 
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tpenfield

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Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

Kind of depends on how warm the shop is . . . you will want it to be at a normal room temperature. So, the boat may take up to 8 hours to come up to temp. . . . then after you do your glassing, you would want the boat to stay at same/similar temperature for about 24 hours for a full cure.

It sounds like your plan of quickly bringing the boat in and out of the shop will not result in a good rebuild, as you may run into curing issues along the way.
 

Speak

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Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

Ok, appreciate your comments. The one shop is an automotive dealership shop and its at or above 71 all the time. I may have access to to the body shop on the same property and i could park it there on friday night, so it would get a full 12 hours of a warm soak. Then i could roll in saturday morning glass and then it could sit all night sarturday, sunday day/night and out monday morning. Does this sound like a better plan?

Cheers,
Stu
 

jbcurt00

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Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

Yep ^^ much better.

BTW: If you need to you can setup halogen work lights near the boat, to help raise or hold an above 60 ambient & surface temp. Tarping the boat, w/ a halogen lamp can also help raise & keep the temp above 60 outside.

You'll want to keep it all covered when you move it back outside for the Mon am - Fri pm work week.

Since you're planning to movie it around quite a bit during the rebuild, what's the boat hull resting in/on? The trailer?
 

Speak

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Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

Thanks for the tips. The hull is resting on a bunk trailer with the cap on. I hope moving it around will be ok.

cheers
Stu
 

Speak

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Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

Guys, I have a situation and not sure how much of an issue it is. Here we go, as you can see with picture attached that i have replaced my transom. Its glued down with PL premium and tabbed in with one layer of CSM. I clamped the transom down with c clamps around the key hold and when it dried I tabbed it in. BUT I discovered now that where the "D" link bolts (tie downs) would go thru the transom that wood is not completely touching the hull by what looks like 1/8 inch. All around the key hole is nice and tight and looks good. Just around what looks like the D link and speado tube hole. How serious is this and do i need to rip it out and start over? And if i have to rip it out how would i get it off the transom now. Im really deflated about this as i put a lot of effort into this rebuild so far. I think the gap is isolated to the outer parts of the transom only. What i should have done is when the transom was drying on i should have put the d links back on and used them to pull the trasom on tight. Any thoughts? I am prepared to rip it out if need be. Thanks Stuart.

transom5.jpgtransom1.jpgtransom2.jpgtransom3.jpgtransom4.jpg
 

jbcurt00

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Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

Unfortunately, if it were mine, I would have to wonder where else behind that large transom area is there a void?

I suspect you didn't get good enough full coverage on the back of the transom ply & the face of the transom. There should have been enough PL applied to both to ensure there would be squeeze out all the way around the plywood when you install the clamps.

There should be good, even pressure across the entire transom when clamped. Using EVERY available hole thru the transom.

I don't have an I/O transom clamp up pix handy, but they are in here. Just at the keyhole probably tweeked the plywood, the transom skin or both just enough to create the void you found. I'd expect there to be more.
 

Speak

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Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

Ya i hear what you are saying. Any ideas how i would get that new wood off now?
 

jbcurt00

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Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

Circular saw set to 1.25" criss cross cuts and a chisel. Once down to near the transom skin, a grinder, not unlike when you removed the old.

Take your time to make a nice flat surface when grinding, not a dished out mess.

You also need to be absolutely positive the new transom is perpendicular to the centerline of the boat. And FLAT across the keyhole, w/ a thru keyhole thickness of 2-2.25" thick.
 

Speak

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Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

Ok yes, understand, thanks for you reply....i will get on this mess hopefully tomorrow and post back my findings. Thanks JBCURT.
Stu
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

If you have a heat gun you might try heating the laminate and the wood to soften the PL. it might soften up enuf to allow you to get a stiff putty knife / chisel in the key hole and pry it loose. Some friends with heat guns would be super helpful
 

Speak

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Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

Question? Im at the point now of taking measurements for the new deck and have determined after cutting out a template with ridged cardboard and laying it down on a 4x8 piece of plywood that the template is slightly wider than a 4x8 sheet. What is everyone else doing in this instance? Cutting the deck out in two pieces? Might sound like a silly question? I dont recall seeing any seams in the old deck when i ripped it out. thoughts?

By the way i have a ton of pictures of this rebuild if anyone is interested. Im going to open up a photobucket account tonight and see if i can figure that out. my internet connection is poor but i will try.



Cheers,
Stuart.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

Slightly Wider??? How much is Slightly? 1/2" on both sides 1" on both sides? How much?
 

Speak

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Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

5 inches on each side which untill it curves upto the front bow boxes.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

Well then you'll need to use 2 sheets and make a seam. Use cleats to re-enforce the seam. Couple of layers of CSM to cover the joint. Make sure to precoat the plywood and the edges really well with resin. This drawing shows what I mean...
DeckSeams-1.jpg
 
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Speak

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Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

Library Slideshow by stuartpeak1 | Photobucket

here is a link to some of my progress.
I have more pics but this is the history. starting with me bringing the "free" boat home. replaced the cylinder head and all the usually parts and fluids, ran it for one season HARD. It was a champ, then found the rotten transom and then stringers and well all the other rotted stuff. so hence the rebuild. I will try to post the pictures as i go now. Hope the pictures are helpful for someone else, sorry some are in the wrong order but you get the idea.

Thanks for your help guys.
Cheers.
Stu
 

Speak

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Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

Thanks Wog,
I wish I didnt have to do that but looks like i have no choice. Wonder how the factory managed no seam?
 

jbcurt00

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Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

Typically there is a cleat laid into or between the stringers were the plywood deck seams are located, and/or they use 4X10, 5X10 or 5X12 plywood to reduce the # of seams.
 

Speak

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Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

I see, thanks again wog. I did manage to get that photo bucked link up. Hope this satisfies someone. I will post more as I go now. I have cabin fever up here. I was out today ( -15c) measuring the deck . LOL. my wife asked " what ya doin?" i replied with my head down "boaten" cant wait for the weather to improve so i can put this beast back together.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: 89 Bayliner capr Stringer/transom replacei-Question about winter fiberglass repai

As stated, You can special order 5x10 sheets of plywood but...I don't want to Pay for it ($300 for 4'x8' 3/4" Marine Grade + $75 shipping)!!!!:eek:
 
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