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We're excited to announce the launch of our NEW Fiberglass & Epoxy Boat Repair & Building section on iboats.com! See more details!

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Curved transom replacement

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  • Curved transom replacement

    I'm planning on replacing the plywood core of my transom. My question is how do I adjust for the curve in the transom. The curve is factory design and not a result of fatigue. The boat is a Wellcraft v20 if that helps.


  • #2
    Re: Curved transom replacement

    got pictures? I am not one of the experts here and they will be able to tell you sooo much more than me but maybe you can use thinner plywood that bends easier and laminate to the thickness desired bending the smaller pieces individulaly as you go?

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    • #3
      Re: Curved transom replacement

      Wimperdink, Thats not a bad idea at all. I was originally going to bond 2 sheets of 3/4 inch plywood to form a 1 1/2 inch core but maybe I can go with three layers of 1/2 inch. The trick is, I'm trying to replace just the core while leaving the inner and outer skins in tact. Duplicating the curve may be near impossible.

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      • #4
        Re: Curved transom replacement

        Definitly post pictures of the process... You might find it easier to cut out the inner side and refiberglass it when you have the transom in... will give you lots more room to work and you wont have to worry as much about making sure you have good contact on all surfaces... I've never replaced a transom so i'm definitly not the expert here but if you have trouble bending wood there's some good info out there... here's one post I was involved in on the subject... http://www.iboats.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ul...=003632#000000

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        • #5
          Re: Curved transom replacement

          Mulv80,You have the right idea with multi-layers. It is easier to cut one side of the glass out though. Leave a 4" perimiter on the cut side. You could even use 1/4" for your layers.On my rebuild I used (2)1/4", (1)1/2", (2)1/4" with a layer of 3/4oz matt in between each layer. You really want to make sure all layers are pulled tight together. I held everything tight with stainless screws. The final layer of glass covered the entire transome including the 4" permiter.Make sure that when you put all of this back into the transom that there are no gaps between the layers of glass. This will be a place for water to get a foot hold and/or create a weak point. I created a thickend (peanut butter consistancy) paste and filled the gap, so that when I put the layers of the transom in the "peanut butter" squeezed out. This filled the uneven gap from where I tore out the old wood.I put the whole thing together "wet", so everything cured together at the same time. I also used epoxy. I don't think the transom is going to fall off any time soon.Peace.Ed.

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