My 85 Bayliner Capri Cuddy Cabin.

[condor74]

I recently purchased a 1985 Bayliner Capri Cuddy Cabin boat. I am actively using the boat this summer and fixing things on the boat as I go. I figured this is the place to ask about boat repairs and stuff like that. This is the first boat I have owned although not the first boat I have used. I had a buddy who used to store his boat at my house and I would take it out when ever I want. This is the first boat that I am responsible for the maintenance and repairs on.

When I bought the boat a few weeks ago, I looked it over and missed several things that may have swayed me away from buying the boat. The boat does work well in the water and I am mostly happy with its performance but a minor issue here and a minor issue there seem t add up. I seeing a few red flags that I kinda wished I had noticed during the initial inspection. Anyway, I own the boat now so minor repairs for now and possibly more in depth repairs will take place in the winter when the weather is cool enough to go outside and spend time working on the boat.

The minor issues that I recently noticed are the bumper strip around the hull cap is pulled up and has gaps you can see from underneath. There is clear silicone at parts under the bumper strip. It looks like it is riveted on? Some of the Rivits are pulled out. Nothing is loose but there are some significant gaps you can feel if you run your hand under the rub rail.

Another issue I have found is the wall that separates the cabin with the steering wheel and dashboard mount seems to have been removed and installed in kind of a cheep way. Large bolt heads go through the wall and into the seat sides in the cuddy. The Dashboard panel looks crappy. I do not know how else to describe it. I will post pictures.

I realize this is an 80s era Bayliner and floor rot is a concern. When I went and looked at it at the guys house before the lake test, I did not find any soft spots in the floor. The bilge seems clean. Tapping on the transom with a screwdriver handle.(it was all I had at the time) did not reveal anything. After I got it home, I started to think about it. The carpet had been replaced and I started wondering if it was hiding a floor that had been repaired. I do plan to be on the lake as often as I can this year so I was a bit afraid to look to hard. I did peal up the corners in the back and the floor looks original. Unfortunately, I did find a small soft spot in the floor in front of the seat that I on the side of the swim deck.

So while I know there is much more coming, my first question is, what is the process for replacing the rub rail around the outside of the hull? Do you buy a new rub rail kit or do you try to reattach the one that is there?

 

[GWPSR]

Re: My 85 Bayliner Capri Cuddy Cabin.

First off, the slow creep of fear, uncertainty and doubt that you are experiencing is one most or all of us have also been through. Some PO's are honest but naive, and others knowingly sell you a vessel with issues they were well aware of without disclosing them.

Regarding the rub-rail -- many are riveted through the lip of the cap and the top of the hull, and serve to hold the two halves together. It's quite possible that time, flexing and/or amateur repairs could result in separation. The rub-rail is usually in two parts, an extruded hared part of aluminum or plastic that provides the mechanical bond and dresses the seam behind it, and a softer, often rubber, insert. The insert can be replaced separately if it is severely damaged or is so brittle when you remove it that it can't be put back. Some folks even replace the original rubber with a length of rope, held in place with adhesive.

You may wish to try to remove the rubber insert in the areas where you see the most separation as well as attempt to get visibility to the inside of the hull at those places if possible. It could be that rivets have simply pulled through the glass, or the top of the hull could be fractured.

Mine is held on with stainless screws, with washers and nuts on the inside. Not sure if they were still doing that 4 years later in '85, or if the Capri used a different method, but you have screws as an option if the back side is accessible.

Silicone should not have been the material originally used to fill gaps around the cap-to-hull seam, but it may have been a semi flexible sealant. Somebody used silicone on mine at some point too. The fact that it is easy to remove proves that it has no place in marine applications generally.

Check the store links at the top of the page for rub-rail replacements and insert pricing, then decide whether you want to repair or replace. I'd love to replace mine if I won the lottery, but I expect instead I will try to polish it, and maybe buy a few pieces from salvage to replace really bad spots.

Good luck on your journey of discovery and disgust :facepalm:

 

[condor74]

Re: My 85 Bayliner Capri Cuddy Cabin.

I like to think the po was just naive. I have found most of the boat owners to be very naive when it comes to floor repair. Most do not understand all the work and money it takes to do it correctly. I was in the same boat ,no pun intended ,until I did some research.

 

[condor74]

Re: My 85 Bayliner Capri Cuddy Cabin.

First off, the slow creep of fear, uncertainty and doubt that you are experiencing is one most or all of us have also been through. Some PO's are honest but naive, and others knowingly sell you a vessel with issues they were well aware of without disclosing them.

Regarding the rub-rail -- many are riveted through the lip of the cap and the top of the hull, and serve to hold the two halves together. It's quite possible that time, flexing and/or amateur repairs could result in separation. The rub-rail is usually in two parts, an extruded hared part of aluminum or plastic that provides the mechanical bond and dresses the seam behind it, and a softer, often rubber, insert. The insert can be replaced separately if it is severely damaged or is so brittle when you remove it that it can't be put back. Some folks even replace the original rubber with a length of rope, held in place with adhesive.

You may wish to try to remove the rubber insert in the areas where you see the most separation as well as attempt to get visibility to the inside of the hull at those places if possible. It could be that rivets have simply pulled through the glass, or the top of the hull could be fractured.

Mine is held on with stainless screws, with washers and nuts on the inside. Not sure if they were still doing that 4 years later in '85, or if the Capri used a different method, but you have screws as an option if the back side is accessible.

Silicone should not have been the material originally used to fill gaps around the cap-to-hull seam, but it may have been a semi flexible sealant. Somebody used silicone on mine at some point too. The fact that it is easy to remove proves that it has no place in marine applications generally.

Check the store links at the top of the page for rub-rail replacements and insert pricing, then decide whether you want to repair or replace. I'd love to replace mine if I won the lottery, but I expect instead I will try to polish it, and maybe buy a few pieces from salvage to replace really bad spots.

Good luck on your journey of discovery and disgust :facepalm:

Well I inspected the rub rail further and you are 110% correct. It uses rivets to secure the rub rail to the upper half of the shell and then rivets through the lower shell. It appears the that the sealant is then applied along the bottom to fill the gap. In the parts that are still original on the boat there is a smooth 1/4 inch wide silicon filled void. It does not look like they used sealant actually between the 2 panels fiberglass that are rived together. Does this sound correct? The rubber around the outside is still in good shape and I think I can save it. I will probably remove the rubber from the section that need repair. drill out all the rivets on that section of rub rail and then clean the surface of all the stock and added in sealant. I will then rivet it all back together and get the correct sealant with a caulking gun and seal it all back up. Does this sound like a good idea? Does anyone else have any suggestions? Let me know if I am doing something wrong here lol. It does not appear to be too hard to do and I figure it wont take more than a few hours.

 

[condor74]

Re: My 85 Bayliner Capri Cuddy Cabin.

I have read other threads about reattaching the top cap and many suggest to not use the permanent marine sealant to seal the cap and rub rail Many said just to use silicone as this is fine for above the waterline repairs and to aid in future repairs where the top cap may have to be repaired.

 

[GWPSR]

Re: My 85 Bayliner Capri Cuddy Cabin.

I think you're right. The prohibition I've heard many times likely was intended to be for below the waterline applications.

I notice that iBoats (and West) carries several silicone sealants specifically for marine use. Not sure whether the 'marine' designation refers simply to the packaging and price ( ) or whether there's actually a formulation difference between that and what you'd use for a tub or shower.

 

[condor74]

Re: My 85 Bayliner Capri Cuddy Cabin.

I will try and get some pictures uploaded

 

[condor74]

Re: My 85 Bayliner Capri Cuddy Cabin.

 

[condor74]

Re: My 85 Bayliner Capri Cuddy Cabin.







These are the main sections I am having problems with. They are mostly on the starboard side.

The silicone is a little rough but you can see how it should look on the port side of the boat.

 

[condor74]

Re: My 85 Bayliner Capri Cuddy Cabin.

The other thing I noticed and maybe someone can shed some light on this for me. The sticker on the first side picture says Bayliner Capri 2.1L. The boat currently has a V8. Is hull number like a VIN number and can show what the original build configuration was of the boat? Wondering if this has been repowered at some point and if so, That V8 could be any size small block Chevy. The outdrive appears to be a Volvo Penta 270 with a single prop. Don't know if this is original or not. I did look at another boat which I really really liked that had a 225 horse 5.0 V8 and a Volvo Penta 280. The boat was very solid only needing upholstery. The only downside was the motor had water in it so I passed. Looking back am thinking that a solid floor and hull are way more important than a bad motor when the motor is as common any Small Block Chevy. That boat was a 1987 CX225 with an open bow.

 

[condor74]

Re: My 85 Bayliner Capri Cuddy Cabin.

What is the best size and style of rivets to use on the rub rail and top cap?

 

[condor74]

Re: My 85 Bayliner Capri Cuddy Cabin.

Sorry I have been on vacation for the last week or so. I just got back to the boat. I am thinking a 3/4 inch long rivet will work for the top cap. What about style of rivet? Looking at the old rivets, they did not swell all that large when they were originally put in. Was thinking of a rivet that has a large surface area on the back side once popped. Any ideas. Maybe a bunch of stainless steel bolts and washers would be better?

When applying sealant, do I just run it along the seam once it is all riveted back together and let it dry or do I un my finger along the bead of sealant and flatten it out like you do when installing a window into a wooden frame?

 

[surlyjoe]

Re: My 85 Bayliner Capri Cuddy Cabin.

they make washers that go on the backs of the rivets like a nut, if you can access it use them, if not just make sure the rivets are at least 1/4" longer than what your trying to fasten, old fiberglass has a habit of blowing out from pop rivets if you cant get the washers on the back . so use aluminum ones and be sure to hold the gun steady and straight when you pop em. As for the caulking, I always tape both sides of the joint with masking tape an 1/8th or so wider than the actual gap just for good adhesion and push it as far in as I can with my finger to smooth it out. pull the tape and your done. it makes the lines nice and clean :wink:

 

[condor74]

Re: My 85 Bayliner Capri Cuddy Cabin.

Thanks for the good advice.

 

[condor74]

Re: My 85 Bayliner Capri Cuddy Cabin.

I opted to go with stainless steel Phillips head bolts. I have done just side of the boat by the right rear seat. I do not know how I would have done it with rivets as I had to use the bolts to pull the lower hull about 3/4 of an inch in spots flat against the top cap. What I did was start out with 1 inch long pan head machine screws. I placed them through the rub rail and with fender washers on the inside tightened them up incrementally along the area that had the largest gaps. After about an hour of working it, I got the gap completely closed. I have to now install the rest of the screws further up the side but there is no gap there so I don't anticipate this being an issue. Hopefully I will be back on the lake this weekend.

 

[surlyjoe]

Re: My 85 Bayliner Capri Cuddy Cabin.

good job! the screws are pricey, but definitly better for old glass and especially for closing gaps. makes me wonder why there was a gap though..

 

[condor74]

Re: My 85 Bayliner Capri Cuddy Cabin.

I do not know why there was a gap but someone has done something there before as the gap was filled with silicone and there was some screws installed in the back corner.

 

[greenbush future]

Re: My 85 Bayliner Capri Cuddy Cabin.

The gap may be from the hull flexing with the possible motor swap mentioned. It's only a guess.

 

[surlyjoe]

Re: My 85 Bayliner Capri Cuddy Cabin.

hull is probably flexing, are the keel rollers on the trailer loaded up? should be sitting with most the weight on the keel rollers.

how long is the boat? looks like its big enough it would have had a v8 as an option , still should only be a couple hundred pounds iI'd guess.

 

[condor74]

Re: My 85 Bayliner Capri Cuddy Cabin.

It is a 19 foot boat. I will check therollers when i get home. It looks like most of the weight is being held by the carpet covered runners on each side of the keel.