1980 chrysler tri hull with 1986 Johnson outboard

[Bee Reel]

Hello everybody! I am new to this forum and also new to boat restoration. I am a carpenter by trade so I am hoping that my skills can be honed towards fixing up this boat. This is my second boat, the first being a 15' flat bottom aluminum jon boat with a 7hp outboard. I purchased this boat a few months back for $400 along with the trailer off of Craig's list. The previous owner had restored the entire deck and all stringers along with a new transom. Seemed to be a sturdy boat so I decided to buy her. As you can see she is missing the windshields which is one of the projects I plan on tackling soon along with new wiring ( got a book on boat wiring) and the instillation of the outboard and controls. I found what I thought was a 1986 VRO 90hp Johnson off Craig's list for $700. Come to find out its really a 110hp with a 90hp cowl on it. I actually found this out when I looked up the model number online to order a new water impeller. The guy who sold me the motor also gave me a bunch of spare parts.(coils, stators, fuel pumps, starters, ect that he had been collecting over the last 30 years. Even came with gasket kits and a lower end for rebuilding later on. Motor runs strong and has what I've been told "good" compression of 100, 105, 105, 105 which I confirmed myself. I know some of you are shaking your heads about the large motor being put on a small boat. I've asked around quite a bit and have been told that there is only about a 50 pound difference between the 110hp and the 75hp it had on it when it was new. Also talked to the insurance company and they are fine with the increase and are willing to insure it just as long as the speed will be below 60mph. Also talked to a friend that works as a CG and he said that tri hull boats don't even require a max hp plate by law so not to worry. With that said, I am wondering if anyone has had any luck building and installing a custom windshield. Any ideas would greatly be appreciated. Strange thing about this boat's previous restoration was the addition of a 10 gallon fuel tank in the center of the hull. Never saw a boat with a tank up front like that so I'm hesitant to even use it. I purchased a 10gal removable tank and plan to store it in the stern. The 10 gal tank that is up front is empty and I plan on removing it this fall when I tackle some cosmetics.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1980 chrysler tri hull with 1986 Johnson outboard

OB bracket off the back probably indicates the tank was moved forward to counterbalance the change @COG/COB caused by the bracket mount.

I suspect your CG friend is misinformed about tri-hulls & CG plates:
Coast Guard Rating Plate

That ^^^ was also a Chrysler tri-hull.

There could be any number of reasons why the cowl's a 90hp on a 110hp powerhead. Some better or worse then others. Same for why there's no data plate on your boat.

You can use the CG formula & calc the theoretical max HP that's deemed safe for your boat:

From elsewhere online:
Hopefully this guide will help you calculate the maximum amount of H.P. your boat can be insured for.
- This is to only be used as a guide.
- You can round your final HP number to the closest multiple of 5. (31 HP would round to 30 HP. 33 HP would round to 35 HP)


Step One - Compute your Factor

A. Length of Boat x Transom Width (measure in feet: 14, 15.5,16, etc).



Step Two - Compare your factor to H.P. rating

A. 0-35 = 3 hp
B. 36-39 = 5 hp
C. 40-42 = 7.5 hp
D. 43-45 = 10 hp
E. 46-52 = 15 hp



Step Three - If your factor is over 52 (Choose only A or B)

A. With Remote Steering (steering wheel) and at least 20" transom height

Maximum HP = (Your factor x 2) - 90

Example: 19' 6" long , 7 feet wide = (19.5 x 7 x 2) - 90 = 183 (Round up in multiples of 5. This boat's max is 185 hp).


B. With Tiller Steering (hand or extension) or less than 20" transom height (Choose only 1 or 2)

1. Flat bottom, or hard chined boats (hull has hard angles)

Max HP = (Your factor x 0.5) - 15

2. Soft chine, rounded hulls

Max HP = (Your factor x 0.8) - 25


Conclusion

I hope this has helped you all who are looking for max hp ratings. If your boat is insured, make sure to check with your insurance company for any restrictions.

This guide was found at NewBoatBuilders, which was ultimately used from "Title 33-Code of Federal Regulations-Subpart 183.53".
​

Since it appears that your boat was an I/O, and has been modified to accept the OB mounted on a bracket, you need to depend on the previous owners work to safely use the boat. And know that you can safely install an even larger OB then might have come on a similar sized Chrysler OB tri hull.

Boat safely.

 

[Bee Reel]

Re: 1980 chrysler tri hull with 1986 Johnson outboard

Thanks for the response and the great info. By that calculation this boats max should be 80hp which to me makes sense. I must have miss lead everyone in regards to the max hp plate. This boat does have one, and its rating is 75hp. I understand that many manufactures would put max hp numbers a bit lower than what the CG would recommend do avoid any lawsuits so that's why 80hp makes sense to me. Also all of my searching about this subject has lead me to believe that since safety is involved there is much debate on what to do in regards to over powering. For everyone person saying don't do it there is an argument for it, I can say for myself that ultimately safety is in the hands of the operator just like with any vehicle. A good operator is one who knows his/her boat and its limitations and to also know how to operate it safely. My main concern for the overpowering was the insurance availability which like I mentioned previously has been okayed with discloser about the outboard size. My new question is, what are the signs that this boat had an I/O on it originally? The guy who restored the boat three years ago did the restoration with a friend who owns a mobile boat repair service in RI. This is who sold me the boat in liew of the owner who had just moved to NC. The transom seems strong and deck is solid as steel so I'm guessing it was repaired properly, which may not be too smart of me. What is the best way to know if the boat is safe or not? Test it in a safe area away from others to make the right choice?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1980 chrysler tri hull with 1986 Johnson outboard

When I first looked at the pix, the black box behind the boat looked like an outboard setback bracket:

And it didn't look like there was a splashwell:

Both may be incorrect.

If there's nothing about the way the boat was put back together that gives you pause, great.

Lately, there have been quite a few 'I just bought this $2500 boat & WTH I found a soft spot today' posts. Just do as much as you can to ensure that any & all repairs were done & done well.

Reading thru some of the resto threads will help you decide what & how to inspect your tri-hull, even though there aren't a bunch of current tri-hull threads.

 

[Bee Reel]

Re: 1980 chrysler tri hull with 1986 Johnson outboard

I guess the pictures I up loaded didn't show the stern too well and unfortunately I can't upload a better image at the moment. There is however a splash well on the boat that is angled steeply towards the motor location with a drain plug. Is there anything wrong with not using a motors full potential? Is it wise to maybe use some type of throttle stops to prevent WOT? Or use a different prop to limit speed? Can't say I'm much for speed although I do like to know it can get up and go. Haha. Any how I plan on trying my hand at windshield construction. Not sure what I should use for the frame yet. Wood with plexi glass or Aluminum with plexi glass? Luckily there are tons of people in this forum willing to give feedback and share ideas. This average Joe from the good old U.S. of A sure appreciates it!

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1980 chrysler tri hull with 1986 Johnson outboard

Windshield fab here

here

& here

Only you can know your comfort level using a 110hp OB on a 75hp max rated transom, it's also heavier then a comparable 75hp would be.

 

[tallcanadian]

Re: 1980 chrysler tri hull with 1986 Johnson outboard

Great looking boat. I do like the Chrysler tri hulls. Is there any way to check the deck under the carpet to see if the plywood is fiberglassed? There seems to be a lot of screws going into it. I would be concerned on water getting in under the wood.

 

[Bee Reel]

Re: 1980 chrysler tri hull with 1986 Johnson outboard

Thank you. I really like the boat too. The deck is all fiber glassed. Im guessing the screws are holding the carpet down at the moment. The fiberglass is not smoothed its bumpy and has drips and globs here and there some Im sure it made it impossible to glue the carpet down. The hull of the boat has been closed in to conceal a 10 gallon gas tank. It appears to be shaped like a triangle. Im not too sure about the placement of the tank. Im planning on just using a 10 gallon on deck tank and storing it in the stern. At least I know its clean. When I first saw the boat I liked the idea of the tank up front. Has a gauge, is made of plastic, has a filler on the outer rail of the boat with a new vent and new filler and gas lines. Is it a bad idea to have the tank up front like that? For the handling? Is it bad for the outboard to have the fuel 10 feet away? I plan on taking the tank out and restoring the seating up front this fall if I decide not to use it. It will make my wife happy which will intern make me happy. Here are the pictures I promised the other day of the stern and one of the inside portion of the replaced transom which as you can see is covered with fiber glass. How does the transom look? She sure seems solid both inside and outside. I jumped up and down on it the day I looked at it to buy to test it out...haha I didn't realize I didn't weigh as much as an outboard and it was a stupid test now but it was the best I could think of on the spot. I also tapped on the inside and outside of the transom with a dead blow hammer and it seems solid as a rock. Any other suggestions?
Thanks for the feedback!

 

[Bee Reel]

Re: 1980 chrysler tri hull with 1986 Johnson outboard

Console repair. Next comes the stainless steel and the new gauges and switch panel.

I must say the pump system on the resin and hardener couldn't have made to process any easier. I had done some glass work in the past and always had to measure my volume or by weight.

I need help with finding a good set of controls. The outboard that I have has a long ignition wire with the ignition attached which I plan on mounting to the console along with a new kill switch. Could I use a universal set of controls or should they be for a Johnson? Unfortunately the controls that came with the boat are for the opposite side then my current set up. They also only have a shifter a throttle and an idle knob. No horn no spot for the ignition.
As always thanks for any help!

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: 1980 chrysler tri hull with 1986 Johnson outboard

Look up the proper model of your boat and the specs will be listed here http://forums.iboats.com/engine-fre...cations-weight-hp-etc-583161.html#post4016587

 

[Bee Reel]

Re: 1980 chrysler tri hull with 1986 Johnson outboard

Thanks for the reply and the link but I don't see any Chrysler made boats on there or any online for that matter. All I know is its a 1980 Chrysler tri hull model # 314. Might be a striper but Im not positive. All of the decals or badges have been removed by the previous owner. Just has the hull id and the CG plate with HP max and weight limits

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1980 chrysler tri hull with 1986 Johnson outboard

[h=1]You can try to match details of yours to the length, beam & etc listed for 1980 Chryslers:

1980 Chrysler Series[/h]

1980 Chrysler Buccaneer 1980 Chrysler CV 1980 Chrysler Charger 1980 Chrysler Dagger 1980 Chrysler Fin & Fun 1980 Chrysler Mutineer 1980 Chrysler Pirateer 1980 Chrysler Pop Top 1980 Chrysler Striper 1980 Chrysler Other Models...

Looks like the iboats spec pages have quite a few Chryslers


So does NADA:

POWER BOATS	LENGTH	MODEL TYPE	HULL	ENGINE(S)	HP	WEIGHT (LBS)	BEAM	FUEL TYPE
FIN & FUN 85	15'	OUTBD	FG	0​	0	410​	5'
STRIPER	15'	OUTBD	FG	0​	0	480​	5'2"
ANGLER	16'	OUTBD	FG	0​	0	600​	5'6"
CHARGER	16'	OUTBD	FG	0​	0	680​	5'6"
FIN & FUN 115	16'	OUTBD	FG	0​	0	860​	6'
STRIPER II	16'	OUTBD	FG	0​	0	920​	6'2"
CV 173	17'	OUTBD	FG	0​	0	810​	6'8"
CV 173	17'	STERN	FG	1​	195	3200​	7'11"	Gasoline
CV 186	18'	STERN	FG	1​	195	3500​	7'11"	Gasoline
CV 223	22'	STERN	FG	1​	195	3700​	8'	Gasoline

 

[Bee Reel]

Re: 1980 chrysler tri hull with 1986 Johnson outboard

Wow! Im really impressed gentlemen. That's the only info I've seen on my own searches as well. Sounds like the striper BR to me all right. Mine comes in just a bit below 800 lbs which Im guessing is due to the mods to concel that strange gas tank. Ive been scouring the inter web for pictures of what it may have looked like when it was new. Id be nice to see how the windshield were constructed and maybe even a person in it to estimate the height of the windshield. 24" puts the top of the windshield at eye level now which seems to be distracting. Maybe 18"?

 

[Bee Reel]

Re: 1980 chrysler tri hull with 1986 Johnson outboard

Question for everyone...I was doing some work to my OB today and realized that the Trim/Tilt box is disconnected and Im a little unsure how to wire it back up. It has two plugs that feed into the box. One has the blue and green wire that connects to the tilt/trim motor which I have but there is another plug that has a blue, a green, a red, a black and a yellow wire. What gets connected to this plug? Does it connect to the trim and tilt switch?The OB is a 1986 JOHNSON 110HP VRO V4. I have a wire diagram for the OB but it doesn't show what that plug goes to. Any help is much appreciated. Im very close to getting the boat in the water just have these last few items to contend with.