1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

[SteveinVA]

I had started a thread about this boat already, but wanted to start a new one on the actual restoration process. Background on this boat can be found here http://forums.iboats.com/boat-restoration-building-hull-repair/beginning-my-ending-605450.html
And some "before" pics can be found here 94 Bayliner Rendezvous Ressurection Photos by RCdreamin | Photobucket

As of now, Motor is off, cap is off and hull is on trailer in front of my garage waiting for me to get started. If only there were more time in the day. Pics to follow.....
the plan:
1. take pictures and measure everything and get sort of a blueprint with measurements.
2. Begin deconstruction, pretty sure all stringers and bulheads are rotten or atleast wet, gonna pull them all out.
3. Already ordered and received enough CSM, 1708, resin, rollers, brushes, suits, respirator, 1/4" chopped, and cabosil to get started.
4. Measure to get plywood requirements
5. Figure out what I am going to do for flotation? I have read and watched videos and all that. three options I am considering; pour in 2 part foam, soda bottles, pool noodles?
Everyone has their own opinions, but has anyone combined two of them? I was thinking about using bottles and foam so I wouldn't have to buy as much foam, and it would fill in around the bottles and keep them from moving around. My only concern would be the heat from the foam might deform or burn the plastic to where it is no longer air tight.
what do y'all think? Anyone tried it?
Thanks for reading

 

[SteveinVA]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

Got some stuff done the last two days. I hate to post a link, but I took so many pics it would be alot easier, and quicker.
I have gotten the transom out(pretty easy it was a sponge) it was also a 3 piece(stupid) solid board at the bottom and two pieces of ply up top(stapled together?!!) all the foam on the port side was soaked, especially in the two rear compartments. starboard wasn't terrible, bottom two inches of foam were soaked. Anyway I figure I'm halfway done tearing stuff out. Think I am gonna do the back half, then tear out the front , sort of work my way up and see if I can keep the hull from widening. Also took some pics of how I got the cap off. without a engine hoist.
Have a look
1994 Bayliner Deckboat Restoration Photos by audijunky_13 | Photobucket

 

[SteveinVA]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

3 days in now. I have one more bulkhead and more more small foam section to remove. Was hoping the two stringers would be OK. Haha made me laugh a little when I opened the first one up. It was worse than the transom. I am going to leave the front bulkhead and little pieces of ply. The feel and sound solid. Any who. My back is killim me. One word of advice. Get the thicker cut of wheels if you use a grinder to cut the tabbing. I burned through 4 thin ones in the sane amount of cuts as 1 half of use with the thicker one. Back at again tomorrow. Hopefully I can get some sanding in. Goodnight all.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

Wow Steve, you are cranking it out! De-Cap-itating that monster sure looks like it was a challenge...
Great progress so far...took a look at the pics...you definitely have your work cut out for you...
But in the end you are gonna have one seriously Awesome deck boat.
Personally, my input on your flotation question is to use the 2 part foam exclusively and the only rational reason for that is that it is a known material for its capabilities...in other words, you know that a cubic foot of 2 lb. foam will float 60 lbs. in the water...I don't know what a soda bottle or a pool noodle can support...I have read claims that a pool noodle can support 100 pounds, however I haven't really found any solid evidence of this and I have never seen either noodles or soda bottles recommended by the the ABYC [https://www.abycinc.org/] or the USCG to be used as a floatation medium inside boats...my other concern would be when the time comes to insure your boat, and the insurance company asks what kind of floatation you used......even though, technically, as backyard boat builders, we are not required to follow the regs...
The following link is long, technical, somewhat dreary and really only applies to boat manufacturers, but if you are interested, it covers floatation requirements for boats...Flotation - Applicability
Take care of your back, man...once you hurt it bad, it takes forever to heal up, and even then its never the same...

 

[SteveinVA]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

Thanks for reading GT. My back is good, I didn't really hurt it it was just sore from all the pulling, prying, ripping, stomping, grinding, sawing and any other verb that ends in ING!! Think I am gonna go with the foam. Once I get it all sealed correctly I shouldn't have any issue with water getting in.
I did not get to sand yesterday. It turns out ALL the wood in this boat has some sort of water penetration or rot. Gonna have to pull the forward bulkhead and decking. My stringers butted (stapled) up against it and they were soaked so it was wet too, also where the foam touched it. They didn't completely sealed the bulkheads, they were just tabbed in, so all the exposed wood was wet and rotting.
Tonight I am going to finish demo and hopefully tomorrow get to grinding down the tabbing and sanding.
Unitl next time

 

[SteveinVA]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

Got a few questions....
1. Do I need to replace my gas tank. as far as I know it doesn't leak but the top of it was sagging in. Do you think maybe glueing some support straps across the top would hold it up, or is it supposed to sag some?
[video]http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/y504/audijunky_13/1994%20Bayliner%20deckboat%20Restoration/DSCN1804_zps0c35ac17.jpg[/video]
2. How many gallons of poly resin do you think I will need? I plan to coat the bottom of all the lower decking, may use some thin woven on bottom and use 1708 on top. As this lower decking is not for people support I may just use one layer of 1708, what do you think? I've got about 140 square feet of lower decking to do.
3. Can I use hardwood board for the stringers? The removed stringers were about 8" tall and 3/4 wide with two areas sistered/doubled up at a joint. I want to use 2 1x8x12's.

thanks for reading and any replies..

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

I would for sure remove the tank, clean it up, check for major pitting and corrosion and do a pressure check on it. Cap off and seal all openings except one and then air it up and check if it holds. Don't think it should be sagging. If it has issues check out POR-15. Really good stuff. Do you mean something like Oak for your stringers? If so yes you can but not necessary. Plywood is perfectly acceptable and most widely used. Easily scabbed together to make any length of stringer required. You'll need some CSM as well as 1708 so for 140 sq ft thats approx 16 yds. 1 gallon of resin will wet out about 4 yds of each so I'd get a minimum of 10 gallons of resin to start. You'll need some Cabosil too, in order to make some filleting material. We call it Peanut Butter here on the forum.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

The sagging tank should be nothing to be worried about, it probably got saggy, actually dented, due to a soft deck and the eventual weight that was resting on it...




Like woody said, do a pressure test on it after you yank it out...most pressure test I have read about say to pressurize the the tank to 3 psi... according to the USCG... Fuel Systems - Tests...
If in doubt about whether or not you have a leak, use some soapy water around any suspected areas...

 

[SteveinVA]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

Don't know if it matters or not but the tank is poly something or the other not metal. I already aired it up to pump the fuel out??? Way more than 3 psi. It did the trick but it bubbled up pretty good. Its a 48 gallon moeller. Any who. Finished up pull in all the wood out today. I'm seriously dreading grinding the hull....got to be done though. Gonna get it started tomorrow barring the weather
Thanks for reading.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

Got all your PPE line up??

 

[SteveinVA]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

Got a respirator. Three tyvek suits and gloves, safety glasses too think I am set for now
Thanks for askin

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

Don't forget the Baby Powder!!! I'd use goggle instead of safety glasses and put some vaseline on your face.

 

[SteveinVA]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

Where do I put the baby powder. And vaseline on my face?? It really hot and humid here in Va powder is gonna cake up pretty good.....

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

All over your Body!!!! When you start grinding the glass powder will penetrate your skin pores and you will itch for DAYS!!! The vaseline on your face will fill the pores and the talc on your body will help do the same. You WILL be hot and sweaty and miserable but... Theres no other way that I know of. It's just real nasty business.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

Use any soft soap instead of vaseline. Rub it in w/out any other water, enough to know it's there. I did my face, neck, ears, arms from the elbow down & hands, virtually itch proof. And since you've already got soap on your skin, rinse off is quick & itch free too. And avoid wiping your face w/ anything as much as possible while you're grinding. It'll wipe the talc, vaseline, soap off....

And that was wearing a long sleeve tshirt, 1/2 face respirator & goggles, not the bunny suit. In the bunny suit & I only did my face, neck & hands The shop vac catches a lot of dust, just not all...

 

[SteveinVA]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

Well, just went with baby powder on the neck, forearms, forehead and shins. I used a bunny suite, and tried the goggles but it is so humid here I couldn't see anything after 30 secs. Changed over to safety glasses. I got most of the transom and bilge area ground down.
Got a question... In my bildge and fuel tank areas there is a layer or two of CSM on top of the hull, as long as I grind down the tabbing and grind out some room for the new tabbing, I shouldn't have to remove this completely down to the hull correct? I like the extra thickness in these areas and the CSM was put down well.
Oh My G-d, what a mess this makes, I dont have a large shop vac or someone to hold the hose if I did, So I just put a shop fan on where I was working, didn't help much .. Looked like it snowed.. I actually used a hose to clean up, rinse it all out of my bildge drain, that worked pretty good.. Took some pics but left the camera at home, I'll post em up this evening.

 

[SteveinVA]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

Greetings from Malabo,
It sucks I had to leave the project.. I'll be back soon though, Been itching to get the grinder going again.Any who just wanted to pop in and let ya'll know I haven't given up.
Anyone see the question above?
thanks for reading

 

[SteveinVA]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

the latest and greatest, Like they say, a pic is worth 1000 words.

 

[GT1000000]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

To answer your question...
You only need to grind down to good fresh glass, basically remove the top surface to provide a nice clean fresh surface for the new glass to mechanically adhere to.
Any glass you can leave and eventually add more to, is better, up to a point...remember, we want our boats to be solid, but remain as light as possible...
Have fun in the blizzard of glass dust...:faint2:

 

[bad coffee]

Re: 1994 Bayliner Rendezvouse Ressurection

Nice work. I like the ladder holding up the top. Great idea.

Looking forward to more pics.