1979 Larson Tri-Hull - Now a what to look for list

1NewBoatGuy

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
May 9, 2013
Messages
94
Once upon a time
OK, so I bought a 16ft 1985 bayliner capri which was my first boat and quickly learned of all the things I should be looking, only because this boat needed the works. After a month of working with the motor (not really a month but few hours here and there) I had a good motor (or as good as a force can get), Then I boggled over starting a restore on the hull (stringers and transom rotted) or selling as project for someone else. Well guess what I sold it for $800 to a couple of guys wanting to rebuild it. They didn't care about the transom said it was an easy fix, stringers didn't bother them either.
So anyway, I took a hit on that since I was in more than a grand but I was honest with my sale and I don't have the space or resources to rebuild an entire boat.
The end


A New Start
I have had the bayliner for about a month and half and never really stopped looking at boats since. And since finding this forum I have learned tons. Well I have been eyeballing this Larson for awhile, the lady that owned it was going through a divorce and needed quick cash. She had it marked at $2300 (price she paid two years ago).

So I checked over the boat and this is what I found

THE GOOD

HULL
check for cracks, soft floor, holes or rubs on hull, look for cracked paint (sign the structure of the boat is flexing too much), stand on motor and look for flex in the transom (I weigh 180lbs so this is a good stress test if the seller wont let you do it, he knows there is something wrong), look for any wood chips in the ski stowage or in the bottom of the boat(don't get the boat if you find any), feel for seperating or bubbled fiberglass under the floor and around the transom

-Transom is solid as a rock, this boat (unlike the 85 bayliner capri I had) has a full solid thick supportive transom from one side to the other. The bayliner basically only had wood where the motor was, rest was just fiberglass and weak.
-Floor is solid (replaced though)
-Stringers, reached under the floor and checked for wood chips and seperating fiberglass (found on the bayliner I had)
All good here, not a single wood chip under the floor, did find a good stick bobber though.
-No cracks found anywhere on the boat
-Paint (faded but no cracks or stress)
-Full built in gas tank, not in the floor but in the transom area strapped in. Hell yeah, it can be taken out and cleaned or what ever.
-Gas fill cap on top of transom area, no more portable tanks or climbing in the boat at the gas station.
- Gas tank vented out the transom area

MOTOR - 115 Johnson, same year as boat
check for spark, compression over 100psi (100 is low and indicates wear), water flow and fuel delivery

-Motor, compression was over 120psi on each of the four cylinders.
-Fuel sprayed from leaking fuel lines (got fuel pressure no problem)
-Spark plugs have that nice consistent white blue spark. PURDY
-A good consistent even stream of water out the tell tail
-Cables all look good and seen no water leaks
-Spark plugs were a little black but just old.
-Shined a flash light in the spark plug holes to look at the tops of the pistons, they look like new. (On the bayliner force motor again the pistons were burnt to hell, black and carbed up as bad as I had ever seen on any motor.)
-Power trim and tilt, works great (something the bayliner needed but didn't have)
-Safety latch for towing excellent design and much better than what I had,
// again the force motor on the bayliner had a flimsy piece of metal that was just not good enough (the motor fell on the road one day cause the latch came unlatch)\\

TRAILER
Bring a meter with you
check wiring, lights all work, rust holes, safety chain and hook, winch strap and hook, winch, hitch operation rollers if present, check tires and make sure there's a spare

-Nice rollers
-No serious rust, some surface rust but not bad for an old trailer
-New Transom straps included
-Lights work
-Big tires 205/75r15. Smooth ride (smaller tires equal bouncing trailer on rough roads)
-5 lug rims, easier and cheaper to find than 4 lug.

ACCESSORIES INCLUDED and Operational
-Life vests
-Two mushroom anchors
-Toe ropes
-Bumpers
-Flash lights
-Bilge pump
-Live well pump
-Fitted snap on canvas cover, NICE Faded but it works
-New Fire extinguisher
-Batteries two years old and clean

Things that need attention

HULL
-Wiring is kind of iffy, all though the motor controls and lighting all works, some gauges are not working right (tach, speedo, trim, and amp gage) and there is a spaghetti mess of wires under the dash. No problem I love this stuff
-Gel coat needs a good polishing and clean up (may just get a full paint job, it's baby blue I'm thinking red and white if it happens)
-Stainless Rail along the top of the hull was cut for some reason. again cosmetic but adds to the deficiency list
-Steering is incredibly stiff (no grease in the cable greaser, looks like I need a new cable)
-Back driver side seat was cut out for a home made dual battery box system and battery isolator switch system, I actually like the idea, just not the way it was executed (made of wood, not fully enclosed and isoloated). This will get fixed right as well.
-Cushion board rotted out on front of boat, not part of the boat just the cushion.

MOTOR
-All fuel lines were leaking inside the motor housing, they were just zip tied on and they were all cracked and rotted.
(replaced last night all new lines and clamped on properly, didn't like the leaks one bit)
-Paint not so pretty but it can be redone
-Dies at low idle, carbs should be cleaned and I'm sure there is some fine tuning that can be done here.

TRAILER

-Winch strap stitching at the hook tearing
-Lights not working (blown bulbs, mad sure I had voltage at each socket), changed them out in the autozone parking lot on the way home.
-Tires are good, but will need replacing as they are starting to crack from dry rot
-Spare tire rubber seperating, no good to use

I complimented her on the boat but explained that she is asking way too much and if I was to fix everything I will be in over $1000 or more easy. She agreed and I haggled her down to $960.00. Nice gal she just over paid when she bought it.

So now I am open for some input here, I love the style of the boat I really think it will be a pretty slick fishing boat and serve a skier as well.

To be continued... pictures to come
 

Bomber Goober

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Dec 28, 2012
Messages
183
Re: 1979 Larson Tri-Hull - Now a what to look for list

By far one of the most detailed openings I have seen, Well done. On the other hand as you know, until otherwise proven this boat is fictional. All this build up and no pics?!?!?! :fish:
 

1NewBoatGuy

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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May 9, 2013
Messages
94
Re: 1979 Larson Tri-Hull - Now a what to look for list

Pics for the non believers
 

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1NewBoatGuy

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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May 9, 2013
Messages
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Re: 1979 Larson Tri-Hull - Now a what to look for list

More pics
 

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1NewBoatGuy

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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May 9, 2013
Messages
94
Re: 1979 Larson Tri-Hull - Now a what to look for list

Pics set 3
 

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1NewBoatGuy

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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May 9, 2013
Messages
94
Re: 1979 Larson Tri-Hull - Now a what to look for list

Anyone have experience with reusing the old steering cable? It seems if I just pull the cable from the conduit I should be able to clean it up and just regrease it. Seems the grease is the problem anyway. very stiff steering, grease is not a very good consistency, I bet the steering has not seen new grease since this cable was installed. This is not the original I am sure since the wood grain laminated steering wheel seems kind of cheap.
 

1NewBoatGuy

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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May 9, 2013
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Re: 1979 Larson Tri-Hull - Now a what to look for list

Just found a built in trickle charger, bingo... This is just getting better.
Do I fix this up and flip it or just keep it as a nice restore. HMMM.... Wife says keep it, only cause she doesnt want me on another project. How ever, I was offered a pretty good deal on a glastron ive been eyeballin' for weeks.
Hmmm..:facepalm::faint2:
 

1NewBoatGuy

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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May 9, 2013
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Re: 1979 Larson Tri-Hull - Now a what to look for list

OK, took apart the steering helm and cleaned it up, tightened up some loose bolts and greased it.
I tried removing the entire steering cable with out any luck, without removing the motor this thing aint coming out. So with that said, I pulled it as far as I could (until it got stuck on the hull). The steering shaft was rusty as hell, so I cleaned it up (little wd40, scotch brite and elbow grease) then cleaned out the tilt tube, packed it with bearing grease and re-installed. Steering is now smooth as butter. Stiff enough to keep the motor from flopping around but smooth enough to steer with one hand.. PERFECT... loving this new boat project.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Re: 1979 Larson Tri-Hull - Now a what to look for list

Does the deck have any soft spots? Have you jumped up and down on the lower leg of the transom to see if the transom has any flex in it? Are there any gouges or deep scratches in the bottom of the hull? Does the windshield close properly?
 

1NewBoatGuy

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Re: 1979 Larson Tri-Hull - Now a what to look for list

Floor is solid as a rock, windshield closes up perfectly, I stood on the motor leg and no flex at all, there are black rub marks on the bottom of the hull from the rollers but that is all.
 

1NewBoatGuy

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Re: 1979 Larson Tri-Hull - Now a what to look for list

Today i have found the first issue with the motor how ever. It was idling at low speed pretty rough and occasionally dying I could see fuel dripping from the bypass cover on the starboard side, Found a couple loose screws and tightened them up. Voila, runs smooth and doesn't die at idle now. I believe it to have been drawing air though this area since I think this is probably part of the intake manifold passages to the valves.
I also found that one set of heads is much warmer than the other. I am suspecting a stuck thermostat on the starboard side since this head never gets warm. The port side of the motor gets warm but not too hot to touch. This could also be a reason for running rough at idle, never warms up idle aint gonna work to well.
 

ObieTiger

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 13, 2013
Messages
47
Re: 1979 Larson Tri-Hull - Now a what to look for list

this boat sounds like its in much better shape than the larson i picked up for 700. it is my first boat. it was pitched to me as water ready. i quickly found out that it's a transom deck stringer rebuild. i like the boat. the motor runs like a top. i'm rebuilding to keep for life. although i'm somewhat excited about the education i'm gonna get in rebuilding, a part of me would rather have found the boat you describe. good luck either way you go.
 

1NewBoatGuy

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Re: 1979 Larson Tri-Hull - Now a what to look for list

this boat sounds like its in much better shape than the larson i picked up for 700. it is my first boat. it was pitched to me as water ready. i quickly found out that it's a transom deck stringer rebuild. i like the boat. the motor runs like a top. i'm rebuilding to keep for life. although i'm somewhat excited about the education i'm gonna get in rebuilding, a part of me would rather have found the boat you describe. good luck either way you go.

You know it really depends on how much time you have and how much space you have to work on a project. Unfortunately my time is limited and my space is limited to my drive way, I have a small garage. So a major overhaul is not in my plans, but doing motor work, electrical and minor hull repairs I have no problem with. Which is basically what I have with this boat. I was fortunate to find such a good deal, I feel as though it is to good to be true but I honestly have not run into anything that I have to stick more than $20 into to repair.
Steering cable was a near miss, I planned to replace it but then being cheap and looking for ways to salvage it, I found cleaning it up and greasing it was all it really needed.
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: 1979 Larson Tri-Hull - Now a what to look for list

Having almost completed my restore the only water ready boats are straight from the factory or a restored one you do yourself. Anything else has question marks. IMHO
 

1NewBoatGuy

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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May 9, 2013
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Re: 1979 Larson Tri-Hull - Now a what to look for list

I agree, if you want to be 100% sure of course. But a thorough inspection should reveal most deficiencies.
 

Bill3434

Petty Officer 1st Class
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May 29, 2011
Messages
398
Re: 1979 Larson Tri-Hull - Now a what to look for list

Yep I know what to look for now after doing a restore for sure.
 

greenbush future

Lieutenant Commander
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Aug 28, 2009
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1,814
Re: 1979 Larson Tri-Hull - Now a what to look for list

For your hot cylinder head, my guess is you may have a water port that could be plugged with chunks of your old water impeller, which you should change soon anyways, it's standard maintenance on outboards, and the boat is new to you. That or mud suck in in your engine from running in shallow water before you bought her. I see a few extra holes in your transom from old stuff that might no longer be on the boat, may want to make sure they are all sealed well to keep the transom solid.
If I remember right those 4 cylinder Johnson's do like gas, but yours looks like it was taken care of and if it runs well, I'd say you got a good boned boat.
Did you sea test this baby? How does it run, and plane out? Any water intrusion to the bilge area? Have fun with your new boat, they are always work in progress to some degree.
 

1NewBoatGuy

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Re: 1979 Larson Tri-Hull - Now a what to look for list

Yeah there are a few screw holes that I plan to patch up with epoxy. I did bring it out to the lake on Sunday to test drive it but it had a hard time at slow speeds and idle and the steering was stiff so I did not stay out too long at all. I also have to get registration taken care of so again, staying on the lake too long is just an invitation for trouble from the swarming cops and DNR on the lake.
How ever after getting it on the trailer and pulling the plug, it was dry as bone. Not a drop came out. This was after about an hour in the water. I was a little concerned about how the live well pump was installed but it seems sealed up well. It looks like standard plumbing used and with sealant.
As far as planing out I had some problems which bothered me quite a bit until I realized I didnt have the motor all the way down. My bad...
As far as the hot cylinder, it is actually not hot just warm (operating temp warm), I do plan on changing the impeller though just for good measure. I am guessing there is a stuck open thermostat on the opposite side since it stays cold. There are two thermostats one for each half of the motor. Crazy, but true.
Something else I found is the gelcoat is cracking away from where the rotted back cushion was. This section of the boat is just fiberglass so I think just fixing the gel coat should be a solid fix for this. Id take pictures of this but the rain is about to hit here and I got it covered up.
 

1NewBoatGuy

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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May 9, 2013
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Re: 1979 Larson Tri-Hull - Now a what to look for list

OK, update...
I did not replace the impeller yet. I have been preoccupied with ignition problems. No questions for this I got it narrowed down to bad springs in the SP wires.
As far as the HOT cylinder, yup as I suspected a stuck thermostat. It was stuck wide open. this was a bear to replace but none the less I replaced both along with all the seals and gaskets associated with exhaust cover(doubles as a cover for the thermostats). Operating temp is now between 145 and 155. Just right.
 

1NewBoatGuy

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May 9, 2013
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Re: 1979 Larson Tri-Hull - Now a what to look for list

Update..
Well today I had this out on the lake for a few hours for the rough and brutal water test.
It ran spectacular. The 17ft boat hit 58mph on the GPS at about 5600 RPM WOT. Did not die once while on the water and performed as expected.

The things that are on my hit list though (things that need some refining)
-Shift linkages sloppy, as a result not grabbing reverse (result of the bushings on the shifting arm being worn, I think)
-Gaskets for bypass covers, there leaky but not too bad.
-Ditch existing fish finder for a newer better one(pop's gave me his old one the other day 3 years old) max depth on the current one too shallow (nothing after 50 ft, weird)
 
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