1981 18ft starcraft supersport

[Watermann]

To remove that crusty carpet glue from the hull, I recommend Xylene. Get a gallon can of it and put it in a yard / garden sprayer to soak the area a couple of times before scraping it off. I do not recommend using a sander as it will eat up the AL. You could also use MEK, as both are adhesive reducers used for spraying glues on and do a good job of removing it too.

For the decking, 3/4" will be a problem for your SS because of the thickness the consoles will not line up correctly when you go to put them back in. For attaching the decking, the large flange rivets are the only way to go due to the way the decking secures to the rib ends, screws will be a problem if you hit the existing holes and the screw will loosen in no time at all. You can get away with 5/8 ply for the decking but personally I would use 1/2 like SC did and add some supports under the deck to lessen the flexing.

(Rivet size 3/16" dia, grip range depends on ply used but 1" is as big as they go if you use 3/4" you need those)

 

[tjakobic]

I planed on putting some extra braces down the middle plus I'm building a rod locker. So you really think 1/2" is enough for the floor???

 

[Watermann]

SC seemed to think 1/2" marine ply was good enough, it's 5 layer but I do think it needs extra support to take some spring out of it. You can go with 5/8" and have the consoles line up still.

Cutting the flotation foam precisely and layering it in on edge is also super good support for the 1/2" ply.

 

[tjakobic]

I am really starting to think about the 5/8" floor idea. I like the thought of reducing some weight. The thought about the console lining up right I am not too sure about, anything will be better then what I just took out. The original 1/2" floor plus a newer 3/4" floor was all in the boat!!

 

[tjakobic]

Taking a trip to home depot today to pick up most of my supplies for the floor

 

[Watermann]

Man that ticks me off to see people deck over old rotten ply :mad-new:

 

[glnbnz]

A little late but following along!

 

[tjakobic]

After making a trip to home Depot for most of the supplies I need a buddy and I started cutting the new floor pieces.

 

[tjakobic]

 

[tjakobic]

Only a couple more orders to make to complete my shopping. I still need to make 3 online orders. One for all the fiberglass. I plan on ordering 1.5 oz. Fiberglass mat 50" wide for cover the top of the floor. I also need to order large flange rivets to secure the floor down. And need to order some Gluvet for the inside of all the rivets.

 

[tjakobic]

I plan of riveting the other support back in the boat. You can see how only the one support on the left center is in right now. I bought some angle bar for extra support down the center as well.

 

[tjakobic]

I plan on taking the boat down to the launch after the ice melts so I can mark the leaks with a grease pen even though I plan on hitting each rivet with Gluvet epoxy.

 

[64osby]

Why are you using fiberglass vs epoxy? Just wondering.

 

[g0nef1sshn]

The boat I got had fiberglass over wood and was sealed all the way around. I dont know how long ago it was done, But the wood rotted from the bottom up. I couldt tell if it was treated with anything or not.

 

[tjakobic]

I plan on coating the bottom of the wood too. I'm using fiberglass vs epoxy simply because of the cost. I got a couple pieces of the floor done tonight

 

[tjakobic]

 

[tjakobic]

 

[Watermann]

Another option for sealing the decking is spar, a bunch of us use it. I use Helmsman Spar which can be easily found. Polyester resin for fiberglass is not a good choice for sealing decking, it won't soak in well and over time will crack when it flexes.

 

[Woodonglass]

This is another option as well...


You don't have to use Yacht or Spar varnish if you'll be covering the deck and not exposing it to the sun. The cheaper Polyurethane will work just as well.

In the end, it's all about durability. Epoxy or Resin and Glass offer a lot more resistance to gouges and scratches that can and will allow water to penetrate into the inner recesses of the plywood. You have to remember how plywood is manufactured. Thin layers of wood separated by resin. What ever you seal the top, flat 1/16" if wood with is all that is protected. the Sealant is Blocked from penetrating to the other layers by the layer of resin glue. That's why its SOOOO important to Soak the edges of plywood with what ever sealant you use. This allows penetration into the inner layers. This is also where most of the water penetration will occur unless a serious gouge occurs on the flat surface which will allow wate to penetrate into the inner layers of the wood. This is where the Epoxy or Resin and Glass comes in. They help resist these kinds of damage from occurring. The Old Timers Recipe and the Spar Varnish do very little when it comes to alleviating this kind of damage. They will help seal the wood from water penetration very well but not from dropping heavy objects on the deck and causing damage to the wood. Just something to think about when making your decision. Epoxy probably IS the best choice AND the most expensive but not by much when you consider the cost of shipping Polyester Resin. If you don't think you'll be incurring a lot of Gouges and scratches on the deck then the Varnish or Old Timers is a good alternative and cheaper method especially if you'll be storing her under cover when not in use.:joyous:

 

[tjakobic]

Switch in plans, I am going to vinyl the floor. What do u guys recommend using to seal the floor under vinyl? Woodonglass do you still recommend spar for that application?