Aluminum 1977 Crestliner Rebuild Finally Underway

[Watermann]

On my older SS the bolts aren't involved with the splashwell. Spashwell is mostly just attached via a pile of machine screws into the transom wood.

The same went for my SN with the wide shallow SW but if you scroll up to look at his boat, it's SW is designed like my V5 SS. Maybe a pic with more perspective would help too.

 

[Patfromny]

I'll run down and snap a few pics of the splash well in a few. My transom is actually below those rivets and the splash well is riveted right to the transom skin. My transom is only about 6 inches high and it doesn't climb the sides of the engine cut out. I think I thought about making it do so but the splash well ends that rivet to the transom skin there prevented me from doing so. There is a heavy C channel that caps the transom and sits below the aluminum decorative engine cut out cap and mirrors the decorative ones path right up to the sterns end caps. . The C channel was welded in two spots to the outer transom skin but I don't know if I rewelded it during put back. I didn't see it really doing much structure wise but if it was welded by AMF maybe there was a reason. Do you think that machine screws would be a better option than going back to solids on those loose rivets? That would surely make me happy. I would thread lock them and cut the screw ends off then hammer the ends so it would never come loose.

 

[Watermann]

I think I understand now. Why couldn't you use machine screws and nylocs rather than rivets since you have access to both sides?

 

[Patfromny]

Here is a shot looking back. You can see the line under the polished aluminium cap. that is the C channel that goes over the transom wood and then a second track in the piece slips over the splash well aluminium that you see here.



I do have a better pick which shows the area without the end caps but I am having trouble with photobucket. I am getting a virus like ad from, of all places, an Antivirus company. it won't let me hit the back button to go back to PB. It tells me I have 6 viruses and to install their product now. fun fun fun. I'm not a computer expert so I will ask you all this. Who can I report this company to? Is there anyone who could stop thein tactics? I have written to PB and the company itself. I also wrote a scathing review on their site warning all to run away. I would love to report them to some type of authority if one exists.

 

[Patfromny]

I think I understand now. Why couldn't you use machine screws and nylocs rather than rivets since you have access to both sides?

Hey WM, I guess that is what I was asking. I wasn't sure if the rivets were stronger or had some other benefits over a screw that I was over looking. Screws would be a whole lot easier than going back to solid rivets.

 

[mickyryan]

I would do nut and bolt and know it aint coming loose or apart again but I would use aluminum nuts and bolts /lockwashers

 

[Patfromny]

Aluminum or Stainless? Not sure about the tinsel strength of AL vs SS. Something I should Google. Is it tensel? my tablet keeps auto correcting and now I'm not sure.

 

[mickyryan]

Tensil however I was conserned about the disimiler metals being a problem stainless isn't strong as you think , its just stainless the aluminum bolts would be as strong as the rivets were I would think since you can go with whatever size feels good .

 

[mickyryan]

no fears my spelling is horrible , I feel I have accomplished something if folks can even respond and sound like they understood what I typed sometimes

 

[Patfromny]

Good point on the rivets being aluminium. didn't think about that. I think stainless is OK on Aluminum. at least that is what is used on most things like cleats and rails. I was wondering about SS hardware because there are no hardness marks on the heads. I was originally thinking of using them to rebuild my trailer but the no marks have made me rethink that. another thing to Google I guess. I think I will do the thread lock and smash technique to secure the bolts. I could always cut the nut off from inside like I will have to do to the rivets anyway. I don't trust nylocs when I can't see them easily. I would imagine that that area gets a ton of vibration from the engine and I think I trust red thread lock over a plastic insert to keep the nut in place. mushrooming the end of the screw is just an added safety feature.

 

[ezmobee]

Stainless is fine.

 

[Patfromny]

Just read a bit on the stainless hardware. seems stainless is harder than aluminium but is still only about the equivalent of a grade 2 or non heat treated/hardened bolt. sounds like my choice. anyone disagree? I will use standard grade 5 for the trailer though. I don't think I need grade 8 to support a thousand pound boat.

 

[Watermann]

No SS on trailers but on a AL and wood boat SS is more than strong enough to hold 2 pieces of AL together. You trust SS bolts to hold that eTec on there right? You would bust off the cast AL motor mounts before those SS 1/2" bolts would give. I would however seal the through the transom bolts and it will isolate them from the AL using 5200. I trust nylocs, have never had one back off or heard anyone complain about them backing off. If it concerns you then it would be way easier to add a lock washer between the nut and flat washer or blue lock tite rather than beating on them. You may also want to remove them someday.

 

[mickyryan]

sweet I always thought there was worries about disimiler metals but eh if not then id go stainless as well and threadlock no smushing the threads

 

[Patfromny]

Agreed WM lock washer and lock tite. The vibration of the engine worries me back there when it comes to lock nuts. I would much rather have a lock washer and thread lock. I have seen the lock nuts fail but only once or twice and that is probably as good as anything gets considering how many things they are used on. One of the fails was probably a manufacturing error, the nylon fell out of the nut. Grade two will be fine for the purpose of holding it all together. And grade 2, 1/2 inch bolts are pretty strong I would imagine.
Thanks EZ I wasn't sure but Googled it and confirmed my thoughts about its tensile strength. Grade 2. Fine for what I'm using them for.
Mickyryan, Stainless, is OK on aluminium. No standard steel because of galvanic corrosion. I'm not sure about bronze and or brass on Aluminium but I'm guessing also a no no

 

[mickyryan]

pat , there are some really neet fastners out there , look around you might find some that will fit almost perfectly flush I believe the ones I am thinking about are used on hurricane shutters here in florida if you put some lock tight on them they might not look bad and of course acorn nuts inside

 

[Watermann]

On the subject of SS and AL interaction I can give my suggestions and opinion. It is my belief that any area constantly wet where a SS fastener is used with no barrier that is touching bare AL will end up corroding between the two metals. I've seen it. I always use 5200 to seal those fasteners to isolate them too... Except on my Chief's Alpha one outdrive of course because it has a complete grounding system. It does use some AL mounting bolts that go through the transom assembly with replaceable anodes on the outer ends.

Wet wood on bare AL is the worst for the corrosion process that I've seen to date.

 

[Patfromny]

Hey Mick, I used to sell hardware way back when. It was my first job after college, I absolutely loved the job. It was a German company that sold any type of fastner you could imagine and then a thousand more that you couldn't. I seem to have a lock nut swimming around in the dark recesses of my age addled mind that was crushed on the end where the nylon lock washer would go on nylocs. it was similar to the copper ones they made for European exhaust systems but it was made out of some type of metal or maybe aluminium. actually, I think they came with the roller tip rockers Crane used to make and they locked the rocker to the rocker stud. it seems like a good option except if they are made of some other metal other than SS. I think I would just be asking for more trouble if I put a different type metal on the screw. I think I'll just stick with lock tight and maybe a nyloc for good measure. I will do a search for those hurricane shudder bolts but I will probably wind up going with machine screws. My Ace sells a ton of stainless so I will surely take a look around for something funky.

Hey Watermann, thanks for the advice, I meant to mention last night that I agree with the 5200. I use it on everything involving the transom. so you are saying that the squeeze out from the 5200 is sufficient on the bolt head or to make sure there is some around the whole underside? I have always gooped the stuff on and wiped away the excess after the bolt is tight. I was happy to see the marina used plenty of 5200 when they installed the etec. I didn't expect that at all.

While we are on the subject, what do you guys suggest I do about painting the screw heads once they are installed? I have some left over blue but will it dry without hardener and not flake off? I was thinking of just dabbing the screw heads with a Q-tip or artist brush so they blend but wasn't sure if I should mix up a bit of hardener. seemed like a waste of paint since one soaked Q-tip would probably be enough Paint to get the job done.

 

[mickyryan]

I like the idea of painting the bolts and if you paint the inside ones id bet that would even help keep the nuts from backing out as well to some degree

 

[Patfromny]

Hey guys. I have been active on this site but not so much on the boat. Household projects and life/work in general have really gotten in the way this year. I have started working on the boat recently but have only gotten small amounts of time to do so.
My plans for this year will be altered and the punch list shortened because we are planning on taking her up next weekend for the fourth. I have started to wet sand and Polish the plastic side pieces and cowl of the engine. They were pretty rough but are really looking almost like new at this point. I have also ordered a small pile of stuff to install. I'm at the point where I am getting ready to install my new decal set on the engine and I had a few questions for those that have been down this road. Watermann I know you have just done this so maybe you could help me out. I have been polishing the cowl with different polishes getting finer as I go and will finish off with a final wax with my nautical-aeronautical wax. Should I install the decals before the wax? Do I have to remove the Polish in some way or will the decals stick fine on top of the Polish? Finally, any tips and tricks would be appreciated. I was planning on using soapy water in a spray bottle under the decal so I can position it and then use a plastic Bondo spreader to squeeze out the water when I'm happy with its position. As you know, these decals aren't super cheap and I'd like to get this done the first time without further expense. Thanks in advance to all who can guide me in the right direction.

I am also planning on fixing the transom with bolts as we were discussing a few posts ago. What size bolts did Starcraft use for the through transom to splash well attachment? Mine were solid rivets originally and I replaced them with standard closed end rivets which weren't strong enough and they have all worked themselves loose.

photos soon. Just running around now trying to get my 15 minutes in on the boat before a party we are attending.