1973 glasspar cutlass 165 rebuild..

[jk33]

Alright guys,

I am new to the forum and am a boat repair novice. I am starting a project after seeing what amazing work some of you have done. This little creampuff was a craigslist special for $280.00.. started at 500. I new the floor was bad and the transom was shot. After tearing out the floor I noticed that the P/O has already replaced the stringers. Looks like a get-r-dun kinda job. The transom was rigged up with 2x4 knee braces. I was told that the transom had work done to it but noticed that they only slapped new wood over the old rotten transom and only about half way down. Just fired the motor up today. Good compression (carbs were just gunked up from bad gas). I figure I got moneys worth and one heck of a project. Not to much information on this particular vessel but this looks like the right place to start. Let me know what you think.

You will also notice that the P/O also de-cap-itated the boat in a get r dun kinda way as well. Took a sawzall to the rear of the cap to avoid doing it the right way. I hope I will be able to repair that as well.


Here she is..

 

[jk33]

Re: 1973 glasspar cutlass 165 rebuild..

More pics

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1973 glasspar cutlass 165 rebuild..

I've seen better, I've seen worse!!!
Do a LOT of searching a reading and studying here on the forum and you will get a quick education on what you will need to do to bring he back to life. Is that a Merc hangin off the back?

 

[jk33]

Re: 1973 glasspar cutlass 165 rebuild..

No. It is an old force 85 hp. I believe 1985 model. Not to sure yet.

 

[jk33]

Re: 1973 glasspar cutlass 165 rebuild..

I am thinking that I will need to rebuild the outer skin for the transom. It has so many holes/patches/cracks.. Should be fun.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 1973 glasspar cutlass 165 rebuild..

Looks like a worthwhile project IF you like the boat. If you're kinda iffy on it, I'd look for another hull to hang your motor on.

I am thinking that I will need to rebuild the outer skin for the transom. It has so many holes/patches/cracks.

Just do NOT cut off the existing outer skin. I'm no fiberglass expert but I know that's a big no-no.

 

[jk33]

Re: 1973 glasspar cutlass 165 rebuild..

Looks like a worthwhile project IF you like the boat. If you're kinda iffy on it, I'd look for another hull to hang your motor on.



Just do NOT cut off the existing outer skin. I'm no fiberglass expert but I know that's a big no-no.

I do like this boat.. I like a tri hull for fishing. Plus I have not seen one anywhere else (could be that they have all sunk..). But I am going to give this little boat a shot. Plus the wife has already named it! "Floater" because that is all it currently does, and it looks like a turd!

Thanks for the heads up on the skin. I will ask around to see how to get that done. Unless someone can answer that here.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1973 glasspar cutlass 165 rebuild..

Fixing all those holes is fairly simple. I noticed you had a crack or two as well. Once the wood is removed on the inside you will be replacing it and installing new wood using thickened resin which we call "Peanut Butter" cuz you mix it up to the consistency of Creamy Peanut Butter. You can lay some glass on the inside to fix the cracks and then install the new wood transom. At the time of install you use packing tape or duct tape to cover the holes and the PB will ooze into those holes and fill em in.You can then grind em down just a bit on the outside and lay a small patch of CSM mat over em and then sand and fair em in. Once that's all done, when you paint, or Gelcoat her you'll never know they were there.

 

[jk33]

Re: 1973 glasspar cutlass 165 rebuild..

Fixing all those holes is fairly simple. I noticed you had a crack or two as well. Once the wood is removed on the inside you will be replacing it and installing new wood using thickened resin which we call "Peanut Butter" cuz you mix it up to the consistency of Creamy Peanut Butter. You can lay some glass on the inside to fix the cracks and then install the new wood transom. At the time of install you use packing tape or duct tape to cover the holes and the PB will ooze into those holes and fill em in.You can then grind em down just a bit on the outside and lay a small patch of CSM mat over em and then sand and fair em in. Once that's all done, when you paint, or Gelcoat her you'll never know they were there.

Thanks Woodonglass!! That makes me feel much better about this project. Hoping to have this vessel water ready by memorial day. I don't know if that is realistic or not but I will keep everyone on here updated on my progress.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1973 glasspar cutlass 165 rebuild..

WOW!!! If you have 6-8 hours a day to dedicate to it, and you can get the materials onsite soon, you might be able to get it done by then. If you don't mind me asking, how Old are you and what kind of Work Experience do you have?

 

[jk33]

Re: 1973 glasspar cutlass 165 rebuild..

WOW!!! If you have 6-8 hours a day to dedicate to it, and you can get the materials onsite soon, you might be able to get it done by then. If you don't mind me asking, how Old are you and what kind of Work Experience do you have?

I am 29 and an insurance agent. Have been since 18 years old. This profession affords me a lot of free time to tinker and rebuild various things. I pretty much grew up in a auto shop and I moonlight as a shade tree mechanic. That said.. I have never worked with glass and will be using this boat to see if this sort of thing is for me. When you sell paper and a promise all day it leaves you wanting to do some "real" work at the end of it. I have an old starcraft run a bout that I would like to tackle some day. This is my practice/fishing boat.

Why buy a new boat when the old ones are just laying around everywhere?? :lol:

 

[jk33]

Re: 1973 glasspar cutlass 165 rebuild..

just removed transom.. what a tedious process. There was a bunch of waterlogged foam back there too. Messy stuff.

Question: Does the foam need to be replaced or will I be better off without it? Is it structural? The only place where there was foam was right against the transom..

 

[jk33]

Re: 1973 glasspar cutlass 165 rebuild..

Ok so I am sure that this has been asked elsewhere on the forum.. I notice that most of you are using 2 layers of 3/4" ply for your transom construction. The transom that I just tore out in pieces was 2 sheets of 1/2". Do you think it will be strong enough with a 1" thickness for that 85hp motor? Placing the original thickness back in will save me a lot of grinding.

 

[jk33]

Re: 1973 glasspar cutlass 165 rebuild..

Ok, I think that I may have made a mistake... I cut and fit the new transom core. 2 sheets of 3/4 plywood AC grade, laminated them together, then covered them with a waxed poly resin and applied CSM in a wet on wet fashion to avoid sanding. Result is a nicely glassed core. The problem is I just read that I should have tabbed the transom to the hull prior to applting the new transom skin?? Can I just sand/acetone the wax off and tab over the new skin? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[jk33]

Re: 1973 glasspar cutlass 165 rebuild..

Ok so I sanded and cleaned all wax off of new transom core. I am so pleased with the progress that I have made so far. Building is much more enjoyable then grinding glass. I am a little confused as to how I am going to clamp the new core to the old skin. The old skin is bowed out from years of sitting around with that heavy motor on the back. I know that I can make clamps or use through bolts to hold the core tight against the skin until it cures. Making clamps = Extra expense & Lost time. Using through bolts = compromised core & incresed potential for leaks. If anyone out there has any sugestions about either method that would be much appreciated. Thanks!!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1973 glasspar cutlass 165 rebuild..

R U certain the Transom is a flat transom and not a Curved one. Some come curved from the factory. Looking at your previous pics I'm not so sure that it might not supposed to have a slight curvature to it. Also making it a full 1 1/2" might effect the ability to put the top cap back on. Did you check that? Is there a curvature in the back edge of the top cap or is it straight across? I recommend using the clamps illustrated in the first link of my signature below but as you say they do cost approx $50 to construct. However it ensures proper distribution of clamping pressure across the entire transom. I would also recommend you use un-waxed resin. Where are you getting your resin and CSM? What weight of CSM and Cloth are you using?

 

[jk33]

Re: 1973 glasspar cutlass 165 rebuild..

I checked to see if the top cap will fit and it appears that I will have to do some minor grinding to get it to fit properly. I felt that I had to go with a ful 1.5" on the transom due to the size (weight) of the motor. I can't post pictures from the office so I will add some better photos of that area this evening. I purchased my resin and CSM at a local auto body supply shop. It is a 3M resin. However, I am not sure of the weight of the CSM. I will check that when I get home as well and let you know.

Thanks for your reply Wood!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1973 glasspar cutlass 165 rebuild..

I'd really recommend you try and find a better supplier for your resin and mat and cloth. You have a Lot more glassin to do and the stuff you're using is not the best or the easiest on the wallet.

 

[jk33]

Re: 1973 glasspar cutlass 165 rebuild..

Thanks for the advice. I noticed that that resin was fairly thick and I have placed an order with US Composits. I just got impatient and wanted to get started while I waited for my order. I also picked up their closed cell expanding foam to pour under the deck. This boat only had a little bit of foam in the corners of the stern.

Also I only paid $26 a gallon for the resin. The owner of the store and I go back a ways so I get a friendly price break on most items there.

 

[Bill3434]

Re: 1973 glasspar cutlass 165 rebuild..

Ok so I sanded and cleaned all wax off of new transom core. I am so pleased with the progress that I have made so far. Building is much more enjoyable then grinding glass. I am a little confused as to how I am going to clamp the new core to the old skin. The old skin is bowed out from years of sitting around with that heavy motor on the back. I know that I can make clamps or use through bolts to hold the core tight against the skin until it cures. Making clamps = Extra expense & Lost time. Using through bolts = compromised core & incresed potential for leaks. If anyone out there has any sugestions about either method that would be much appreciated. Thanks!!

WOG clamps are worth the time and money. You probably need to find some unwaxed resin. I have yet found a need for it and if you need waxed resin you can always add wax.