Assitance with G3 Transom repair (aluminum corrosion)

West2

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I have read numerous reports/posts and received confirmation from G3 and multiple dealers that the pre-2006 G3 1756 used unwrapped (I believe treated) wood in the transom and bow deck. I purchased my 2005 1756cc used and it has been fantastic for over 1.5 years being used every weekend in salt/brackish water. I always clean the boat and it has been kept under cover or in a garage. Around 1/19/13 I noticed there was an abnormal amount of water in the bilge. Here I am three weeks later with significant pitting and multiple finger size holes in the transom and deck that were not there 21 days ago.

G3 would be replacing this boat if I were the original owner and the defect in newer model materials has been corrected. However, the best offer I have so far from Yamaha is to split the repair cost (which may exceed the value of the boat at over $3,000.00 for the aluminum work alone.)

Has anyone had success with getting G3 to fully cover this repair on boats with this issue when outside of the warranty time? If not is anyone aware of another technique other than completely removing and replacing the welded transom?

I had a thought of having the transom cap cut and trying to get the wood out, repairing holes and maybe a new outer skin, but the corrosion may be too bad and it may be to difficult to get the wood completely out. I hate that what I always thought was a great boat may soon be aluminum scrap, but wanted to see what advice anyone may have. I included a few pictures of the holes that have shown in only about 14 days.


IMG_2102[1].jpgIMG_2115[1].jpg
 

64osby

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Re: Assitance with G3 Transom repair (aluminum corrosion)

Warranties | G3 Boats

MAIN HULL: Main external seams

  • G3 ADVANTAGE WARRANTY adds value with an extended warranty on all external welded and riveted seams for the "duration of ownership" for the original retail purchaser. Second owner 5 years from original owner's purchase date (effective on 2004 & newer models).

STRUCTURAL COMPONENTS: Stringers, bulkheads, and other internal structure

  • Limited five year bow to stern non pro-rated structural warranty (stringers, bulkheads, and other internal structure) transferable once within 5 years of purchase. (1 TIME TRANSFERABLE WITHIN FIRST 5 YEARS).
NON-STRUCTURAL COMPONENTS:
  • 2 years Paint, Decals, Hardware, Electrical (effective on 2004 models)
  • 1 year Paint, Decals, Hardware, Electrical (effective on 1998-2003 models)
MARINE PLYWOOD:

  • Limited Lifetime warranty from manufacturer:
  • 100% parts and labor for 10 years. After 10 years, wood only.
The actual warrenty can be found in the last pages of this pdf owners manual. http://www.g3boats.com/uploads/sites/4/website/Pages/676/g3_2012_owners_manual-optimized.pdf

It reads fairly clear that being a second owner negates most or all of the warranty for you.

The only "loophole" I saw was that the plywood portion is warranted by Plywood Company for a period of 10 years.

PLYWOOD (Warranty is governed by wood supplier?s warranty at the time of manufacturer) Plywood Company agrees to pay
the costs arising from the replacement defective products for a period of ten (10) years. After a ten year period Plywood
Company will only agree to exchange the damaged panels. In the event the Original Owner sells the subject boat, this
warranty shall be transferred to the Second Owner for a period of ten (10) years from the date of purchase by the Original
Owner.

As I read that you would seem to have a claim.

The only other thought that comes to mind is they are willing to pay half the repair, $1500? I would ask them nicely to honor the plywood portion of the warranty "cost arising out of." That to me would be fixing the boat.

If they decline, and I think they will, I would ask if they would replace they boat with a similar boat that will not have the issue. You stated the repair would cost more then the boat is worth, so it's not a big stretch IMO.

Third would be to get them to settle on paying half the estimated repair cost to you. You get a couple written estimates and submit for proof. Take the cash and buy a different boat.


With the issues that you describe and the vast amount of info on the issue posted on the web; I would not want that boat even if it was "repaired". Even if they tear the whole boat apart and repair / replace all areas effected by the wood, that boat will most likely continue to corrode.

That's all I got, good luck.:)
 

West2

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Re: Assitance with G3 Transom repair (aluminum corrosion)

Thank you for the informtion. I will see what Yamaha says on the warranty and post an update. I hope they do the right thing, this model is definately an inferior product and in my opinion, the only way I would get another G3 or recommend one is if they stand behind the replacement....
 

jigngrub

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Re: Assitance with G3 Transom repair (aluminum corrosion)

Is your deck aluminum or plywood? If plywood, have you lifted it yet to chech for damage to the stringers or ribs?
 

West2

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Re: Assitance with G3 Transom repair (aluminum corrosion)

Is your deck aluminum or plywood? If plywood, have you lifted it yet to chech for damage to the stringers or ribs?

All descking is aluminum, the only wood that I am aware of is in the transom and inside the aluminum bow deck where the trolling motor is mounted. From what I have seen everyhting is solid except where I have wet wood inside the aluminum skin.
 

jigngrub

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Re: Assitance with G3 Transom repair (aluminum corrosion)

everyhting is solid except where I have wet wood inside the aluminum skin.

Wet wood is the root of all evil in all boats!!!:facepalm:
 

West2

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Re: Assitance with G3 Transom repair (aluminum corrosion)

So...A new update. Full replacement of the transom, decking, float/re-set motor, paint transom to macth is going to be around $5,000. for a hull I estimate to be worth about $3,000-$4,000. I have had suggestions to epoxy or seal the hull (let the corrosioin continue), but am not convinced. Any advie on a repair option, or the best way to scrap an alluminum CC boat to get a decent amount for it?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Assitance with G3 Transom repair (aluminum corrosion)

I've seen your post on almost all of the Boating Forums. If you post some pics of your boat's transom, both inside and out, I sure the members here on the forum will be able to guide you on how to effect repairs. I'd guess that could do the repairs yourself for under 1K but that's JUST my Guess!!!! Pics will tell the tale.
 

West2

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Re: Assitance with G3 Transom repair (aluminum corrosion)

I think I know the post you are referring to, but this is my 1st and only online post for my boat. This is a well known issue, I just hope more people can be aware of this problem if they are buying one of the many pre-2006 G3 boats for sale. The deck corrosion on my hull was there before I bought it and covered up, I am attempting to contact the seller, it?s a shame he may not have known G3 would replace the hull for him, just not me as the secondary owner.

I added some more pictures and am curious if a repair similar to one displayed on the link below could work in this situation. I have no idea how possible it would be to get the wood out of the transom as shown:

Aluminum boat transom repair - 2CoolFishing

I?m going to try and find a welder to fix/or buy as a project boat if I cannot find a suitable repair. I have no tools to allow me to work on this myself.

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jigngrub

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Re: Assitance with G3 Transom repair (aluminum corrosion)

We need pics of the inside of your transom too... or not if you don't have any tools to work on a boat???

The corrosion doesn't really look that bad, we've seen lots worse on other boats here.

You'll find owning a boat very expensive without tools to work on it, I don't know how much it is in your neck of the woods... but shop time is $98 an hour here.
 

West2

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Re: Assitance with G3 Transom repair (aluminum corrosion)

I will get more pictures up ASAP. There is only one spot of corrosion showing inside. I assume there is significant corrosion inside the transom (it is fully welded aluminum around the wood) as I went from no holes showing to what is shown in 21 days. Does anyone know how possible it would be to have the transom cap cut open and get the wood out from the top. (seems like a difficult task). To clarify on the tools...I do not have anything to cut/weld aluminum....
 

jigngrub

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Re: Assitance with G3 Transom repair (aluminum corrosion)

Figuring out the best way to get to the transom wood is the reason I'd like to see more pics.

I'm not a fan of welded hull aluminum boats for just this reason, riveted boats are much easier to work on.
 

Teamster

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Re: Assitance with G3 Transom repair (aluminum corrosion)

If your running in salt/brackish water I'm thinking there must be an electrolysis issue,...

I'm a fan of the deep v G3 Walleye,Multi species hulls,..

Looking forward to seeing where this goes,...
 

West2

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Re: Assitance with G3 Transom repair (aluminum corrosion)

This specific issue is related to saltwater getting inside the welded transom and soaking into the unprotected marine ply. Models after 2006 have the transom and bow decking marine play wrapped to protect against this issue. My understanding of the standard repair is to cut the transom out, recut the ply, seal the ply and skin and re-weld the transom....
 

jigngrub

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Re: Assitance with G3 Transom repair (aluminum corrosion)

My understanding of the standard repair is to cut the transom out, recut the ply, seal the ply and skin and re-weld the transom....

That's pretty much it... and the best fix is to access the transom from the inside of the boat. Removing and replacing the wood from the top only is a real PITA, but may be the best option for your boat build.
 

Georgesalmon

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Re: Assitance with G3 Transom repair (aluminum corrosion)

This may sound dumb but is there any reason you have to weld in a new transom? Could you make a good pattern of it before doing anything and then cut it out and have a sheet metal shop bend you a new one? With a couple inch wide bend to the inside all around you could rivet the new one on with sealing tape and avoid needing a welder. Just a thought.
 

West2

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Re: Assitance with G3 Transom repair (aluminum corrosion)

This may sound dumb but is there any reason you have to weld in a new transom? Could you make a good pattern of it before doing anything and then cut it out and have a sheet metal shop bend you a new one? With a couple inch wide bend to the inside all around you could rivet the new one on with sealing tape and avoid needing a welder. Just a thought.
Sounds possible...but this is why I am on this forum, to get advice from those that know...the only other common repair I have heard is a process used to repair pontoon boats. Basically seal the transom in epoxy, let the aluminum skin corrode inside...I wonder how long term this could be.
 

Jeep Man

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Re: Assitance with G3 Transom repair (aluminum corrosion)

If the only treated wood is in the transom and the only corrosion is also only in the transom, could you not replace the entire transom. Cutting out the outer skin and welding in a replacement, then replacing the wood and inner skin is doable and likely wouldn't run more than $1000. I'd say forget trying to seal it. There is corrosion inside your not seeing YET. Cut out the cancer and be done with it.
 

West2

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Re: Assitance with G3 Transom repair (aluminum corrosion)

The quote I received to remove inner/outer skin, replace with sealed wood was $2,400. I have not been able to get more pictures but there are multiple benches and compartments welded to the inside of the transom so I assume removing these and replacing has added cost.
 

minuteman62-64

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Re: Assitance with G3 Transom repair (aluminum corrosion)

I don't know how feasible this is, or the exact details, but a couple of years ago I was talking to an owner of a boat similar to mine that had transom skin corrosion. He said he got some 5051, cut it to size and had a welder weld it in place over the old transom skin. He said the cost of the welding was not all that much (or maybe he told me - can't remember). He also said he put some stuff over the old skin prior to the welding to isolate it from the new skin (I've forgotten what he said it was).
 
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