My Rustoleum paint Job. + new seats

1979checkmate

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 15, 2011
Messages
261
Re: My Rustoleum paint Job. + new seats

Carefull when buffing. Unless you put on 3+ coats you can buff thru pretty easily.

there are three coats, thanks for the warning though, i plan to be pretty light with buffing. it looks a million times better now with no sanding or buffing, and that was all i was going for
 

rouse1984

Recruit
Joined
Jul 17, 2012
Messages
1
Re: My Rustoleum paint Job. + new seats

need some help on the rustoleum topside marine paint, well i am not a painter my first time, well i am going to be painting my 19ft fiberglass boat i will be spraying it on, and has anyone ever used valspar enamel hardener could anyone tell me how to mix the paint for spray,some people said 1/2 cup of hardner and 1/2 cup of acetone and mix , and i will be using a hvlp paint gun with a 1.4 spray tip or should i go bigger like a 2.0 tip please help,

thanks dan
 

Robert D

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Feb 21, 2009
Messages
338
Re: My Rustoleum paint Job. + new seats

There should be some product specific instructions on the can. If not, check their web site. Just remember, the quality of the paint job is directly related to how well the prep is done :)
 

Robert D

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Feb 21, 2009
Messages
338
Re: My Rustoleum paint Job. + new seats

As for the runs, you can lightly sand them down......and I mean lightly. Nothing too coarse, perhaps carefully on the run itself with 600 grit just to take most of the height off it. Then a 1000 grit. Then carefully use the typical rubbing compound and buff it to match the surrounding area. Black is difficult as it really shows imperfections....where white doesn't. Worst case scenario is you go too deep and have to touch up with some more paint. Then you can simply use some light compound to blend it it on the edges. It depends on how bad the runs are. If they are barely noticeable and out of the way, you might just decide to live with them! If you're unsure about your skills in making it match, you can always carefully sand the runs off and then tape off the area for another stripe or other cosmetic addition to cover it up! Sometimes that's easier for beginners.

Orange peel is likely due to contaminants on the surface, such as wax, grease, oil. I wouldn't sand the orange peel unless you are ready to go all the way down to the surface.

I spent 3 months doing a 19 foot ski boat to perfection about a decade ago. I wish I hadn't. I got so paranoid about anything that could possibly scratch it. Functionality is best I think......if the boat is not for show, but for playing, skiing, fishing, etc.....you'll be the happiest with a 'good' paint job, not a perfect one. That way you won't freak out when you hit that little twig floating in the water, afraid you may have scratched the hull :)
 
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