1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

gm280

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Okay an update about how the latest CSM came out. I have to say it looks a lot better. It cleared about 95% of those cloudy areas up by coating poly and allowing it to cure and then polying again with CSM and more poly. That seems to work pretty well. There still are a few slight cloudy areas but an amazing difference doing that procedure. So I guess that is how I will do the water proofing from now on... Oh, and I am just about out of my SECOND 5 gallon container of poly now. Only one left to use... :eek: :faint2:
 

gm280

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Yesterday I was water proofing the last section of the boat floor and it happened. I now ran out of CSM! Problem is I still need more. SO, I guess I'll be ordering more tomorrow morning so I can continue working... And I finally opened up my last five gallon bucket of 435 resin as well. Supplies are running out. But the boat work is too so I guess I should expect that... I have a lot of parts coming in as well and things are coming together nicely. While there is still some thinking to do yet, the big issues are figured out and there is little left to design yet. Soon time to flip the hull for the paint portion...

You all have a wonderful Memorial Day...and remember the fallen soldiers that fought for our country. :usa: :usa2:
 

kcassells

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Never enough time, never enough material... You've been awful busy though! Looks like some great work. On the glass usually wet out the wood and let it dry for sealing. Then go back and add glass. Been before said that if you do the two at the same time the wood soaks up the resin and the glass gets those spots cause of that process.
Sure looks like you have a handle on it now though. Looking good. Lots of things getting done there says I!
 

gm280

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Never enough time, never enough material... You've been awful busy though! Looks like some great work. On the glass usually wet out the wood and let it dry for sealing. Then go back and add glass. Been before said that if you do the two at the same time the wood soaks up the resin and the glass gets those spots cause of that process.
Sure looks like you have a handle on it now though. Looking good. Lots of things getting done there says I!

Yes kcassells, I think I have found out that proper way now to water proof wood with poly and CSM. The last try seems to have come out pretty nice. I do believe that the wood was sucking out the poly from the CSM and coating it first and allowing it to cure seem the better way to go now. Something always crops up, but isn't that what makes life interesting as well. I did just order 15 yards more of CSM and more Cabosil, because of the PB I am going to use shortly to install the floors, seat bases, live well and rod boxes and such. I also ordered another 6oz of MEKP because I know I don't have enough for the amount of polyester resin remaining. I just hope I have enough poly without having to order anymore. I think I do, but we will see...
 

Woodonglass

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gm, not sure how you missed it, but Best Practices for Glassin, has always been to fill all voids with PB and pre-coat the wood with a coat of resin prior to laying any glass to prevent resin starvation and bubbles. Oh well, you've got it now and you'll be on the water in no time!!! Isn't it amazing how fast you can go thru a bucket of resin!!!!:eek:
 

gm280

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gm, not sure how you missed it, but Best Practices for Glassin, has always been to fill all voids with PB and pre-coat the wood with a coat of resin prior to laying any glass to prevent resin starvation and bubbles. Oh well, you've got it now and you'll be on the water in no time!!! Isn't it amazing how fast you can go thru a bucket of resin!!!!:eek:

Honestly WOG, I didn't know to apply a coat of poly and allow to cure first. I thought you applied a coat of poly on raw wood and before it sets up you laid the CSM and applied more poly on top. At least that is what I was doing and up to now it seemed to work pretty well. But now I know to apply a coat of poly, let it cure and then reapply more poly then CSM and more poly. That seems to work and since I have so little to water proof now, I learned that lesson almost too late... I guess the warmer temps showed up with my idea and it doesn't take very long to cure with these hotter temps. But so little to water proof remaining. I need to update with more pictures but the things I've been doing are really not picture worthy. I like to show real progress and all these little things don't seem to add up as much to see. They are important to the project, but not really photographic in interest...
 

Woodonglass

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My Deck Fabrication link Kinda makes mention of doing it but not REAL clear about it. I've asked the Moderators to update it to make certain it is much more clear about the need to pre-coat all the wood before applying CSM or Fabric.

Yeah, well, like we always say, without pics...It NEVER happened!!!!!:eek::D
 
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gm280

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My Deck Fabrication link Kinda makes mention of doing it but not REAL clear about it. I've asked the Moderators to update it to make certain it is much more clear about the need to pre-coat all the wood before applying CSM or Fabric.

Yeah, well, like we always say, without pics...It NEVER happened!!!!!:eek::D

I knew there was a good reason I did post pictures... :facepalm:

Seriously, I haven't posted pictures because until I have something that is picture worthy to post, It would simply look like the same old pictures I've already posted. Raw wood boat flooring looks pretty much like poly/CSM covered ones. Re-threading a live well drain can't even be seen. Cutting stainless steel piano hinges to length and deburring them looks like ever other piano hinge. Designing the front gauge panel is not ready yet so there is nothing to post there either. So a lot of little things being done, lots of things, but nothing earth shattering for pictures to convey. Hope that changes in the next few days though... I am also finishing up CSMing on the boat seat bases and then I can cut them to install the piano hinges and install the switches and LED lights.
 

gm280

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I am expecting my latest shipment of US Composite materials today and can get back to boat glassing again. I ran out of CSM and need some to finish the seat boxes, live well box, front panels, rod boxes and such. So those things can get worked on again. I also have received the thru-hull stainless steel fittings and live well pump and bilge pump now. So a lot of things coming in and a lot of little things to do now. I hope I can post some progress pictures soon... :clap2:

You all have a wonderful day... :thumb:
 

Quantumn

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Jul 17, 2012
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Sounds awesome GM, looking forward to more pictures and progress. Really interested in your DIY livewell, should be an engineering marvel. I have been thinking of something similar for my evinrude resto since it will primarily be a fishing vessel. Btw, I received my USC supplies today as well, I was like a kid on xmas morning. :usa2:
 

gm280

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I am presently receiving and ordering a lot of the smaller parts and such. I got the battery selector switch in now. I bought a Blue Sea 6007 type and it looks like it will do the job beautifully as well. And I've received the four stainless steel cup holders as well. I mean you have to have cup holds while fishing. I also received the bilge pump and live well pump and thru-hull stainless steel fittings and such. And I am presently ordering more things also. However that brings me to a question. I have to wire up all these things, of course, and am planning to use marine 16 gauge wiring for them. How would you all go about that? What I mean is, would you order all the specific different wire colors to support the accessories or order 16 gauge marine tinned paired red and black wire in a sleeved covering and install the proper labels on the ends? I am leaning towards buying about a 100 foot spool of marine grade 16 gauge paired wires in a sleeve and putting the proper labels in the ends instead of the marine color coded wires. What do you all think? Every wire, be it single or paired, will still be run through either PVC pipe or continuous run smooth plastic tubing to protect the wires and make it easier to remove and pull new wires through if need be. So what about the individual color coded wire vs paired red and.black with labels? IDK :noidea:
 

sphelps

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Your gunna use a bunch of wire ... I would go with the spool .. As long as you mark the ends you'll be good to go .. ;)
 

gm280

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Your gunna use a bunch of wire ... I would go with the spool .. As long as you mark the ends you'll be good to go .. ;)

Yes Sam I was thinking the same thing. I used labels many times before and they really do work great. What I usually do is on the computer, I print out the name of the wire bundle like Bilge Pump, or Live Well Pump or Fuel Sensor or any type names/labels like that . And then print them out and leave a little column with each label name so I can attach the label to the wire and wrap it around the wire and finish it off with a little clear scotch tape to hold it until I use clear heat shrink over it and shrink the tubing down on top of the label. Then the wire has a fixed label under the clear shrink tubing so you can easily know where it goes too. It stays there forever and is so easy for anybody to read and know exactly where that wire bundle goes as well. So being how I seriously do have so many things that need to be wired, I am going with a 16 gauge tinted stranded covered pair (red and black paired) and attach labels to each connection location... Works for me... Here is how I do the labeling...
WL1.jpg
WL2.jpg
WL3.jpg
WL4.jpg
And there is a wire labeled. And that works for any size wire as well... So the need for individual color coded wires is not so necessary if you can label the bundled pairs.

More to come...

Everybody have a really nice day... :thumb:
 

sphelps

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Wow ! That's high tech ... I was thinking use white sheathed wire and use a fine line sharpie ... :D
 

bonz_d

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gm, awhile ago I had to rewire the lights in the Lund I had. I was able to find marine cable online by the foot because I didn't need that much. I was able to find a 2 wire sheathed cable to go from the bow light to the stern light which I was able to run thru the hollow rub rail. Then from the stern light to the switch I was able to find a 3 wire sheathed cable that worked very well with a 3 position push pull switch. Ended up being all very neat and compact w/o individual wires running everywhere.
 

gm280

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Wow ! That's high tech ... I was thinking use white sheathed wire and use a fine line sharpie ... :D

Sam, it looks a lot more involved the it actually is. And once labeled, the wire is very easy to identify as to where it goes without a meter or anything to check it out. Been doing this for years now and I like it myself...

bonz_d, yes I just finished ordering 100' roll of red and black 16 gauge tinned marine wires bundled in a covered pair. So it will be easy to push and pull those paired wires through the PVC piping I installed in the bulkheads. So all the wires in this boat will be inside some type tubing or PVC to their destinations. That way I can remove and install other wires if need be down the road..
 

gm280

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Okay here is a little update on this boat project. I haven't posted in a while but for some good reasons.

Last Wednesday my wife had a heart attack. And she was taken to the hospital via ambulance and straight to the cath lab section for them to see what was wrong. Now for the good news. Seems she has a little different layout of her heart then the majority of folks, but not really unusual either. Part of one of her arteries actually goes underneath the heart muscle itself and back outside the heart again. And so when her heart contracts it was closing off that artery and some blood was pooling beneath. Well it finally made a total blockage of that artery and caused the heart attack. They were able to totally remove that clot and install a stint to keep that from ever happening again. And they were able to accomplish that is record time so no heart damage remains. :smile: So she is now home and ding well except fot he head colds we both had before her heart attack. My head cold turned into a serious infection and even went into my eyes. So I was sort a banned from the hospital and on some antibacterial meds and now she is no then as well.

So work on the actual boat itself has come to a complete stop. However, I did manager to order a lot of items I needed to complete the project and once this junk leaves our heads and chest, work will resume. So other then some items coming in, I have zero pictures to offer...sadly again. But the wife is my first priority and she is doing great now... But I will post pictures as soon as I can and get something to post... You all have a really wonderful day! :thumb:
 
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Woodonglass

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WHOA!!!! Having 9 stents to my Heart Resume I CAN RELATE!!!!! I am SOOOOOO glad to hear of that AWESOME outcome!!! To HECK with the boat. Both of you stay down and take care and GET WELL!!!!!

 

bonz_d

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gm is great to hear all went well. Recovery does take some time to feel 100%. As Wood stated. I too have had multiple cath's dove over the years., to the point that they have told me that the next one will be a bypass. I too have 10 stents in various places and a couple of cath's were done and nothing was added. The worst part for me in this is that I also have an artificial bypass graft in my groin that goes into both legs so that now when the do a cath they have to go in thru my wrist. The sad part for me is the Dr. that has done all my work has left his practice and no one is saying why so now I need to find another Dr. that I can trust with my life and get along with.

Hope the head thing clears up soon too. I myself have been stubborn and have not gone in to see about an ear that's been hurting for a couple weeks.

With all this I too have more projects going on than I have time or ambition to tackle at times and then there is the rain. I've got 3 trailers I've been waiting on weather to clear so I can strip and paint them.

God bless and a speedy recovery for both of you!
 
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