1976 Tom Boy Boat, 1976 40 HP Johnson Outboard and who knows what Trailer

[Woodonglass]

Before you lay your plywood, you might want to read this..http://www.woodnewsonline.com/DTEW/1...odworker4.html

Not saying your thinking is wrong, but I know I learned something from it.!!!!

 

[gm280]

Before you lay your plywood, you might want to read this..http://www.woodnewsonline.com/DTEW/1...odworker4.html

Not saying your thinking is wrong, but I know I learned something from it.!!!!

Interesting read there WOG. And that is 100% true using cabinet grade plywoods. But the usual exterior grade plywoods don't use a paper thin veneer cover wood. They use equal thickness plies and the most strength is the length wise run. And that goes for any thickness of standard plywoods in any thickness. Once you move on to cabinet grades, then those expensive veneers come into play. And the cost skyrockets as well. That is why exterior grades are used lengthwise as on roofing and under layment on wood floors. The length goes across the floor joists to reduce floor flex that way. but I do thank you for such an interesting article on cabinet grade plywoods. I'll have to watch how I make future furniture. But most of my furniture building is with solid hardwoods anyway. in fact after this boat project is finished, my plans are to build some new kitchen cabinets out of Wormy Maple. I already have the lumber for them as well. So I will probably never get caught up with all my projects...

 

[sphelps]

Hmmm , I think this test should be done using the exterior grade ply cut 4'x4' . Pile weight in the middle running each way .. That would be a more realistic test . Heck you could just step on it and I would think you could tell which way feels stronger ..

 

[bonz_d]

Before you lay your plywood, you might want to read this..http://www.woodnewsonline.com/DTEW/1...odworker4.html

Not saying your thinking is wrong, but I know I learned something from it.!!!!

Thanks WOG, That is continuing education to go along with everything else I'd learned this past year about plywood. Which has been quite a bit. That page will also get a bookmark!

 

[Woodonglass]

I know that is the stated way of laying plywood having been a roofer in my younger days, however I thought that with some of the new plywood being produced today that inspecting what you have might be in order. I know some of the Ext. grade I have bought lately has some funky looking veneers and thicknesses are not as uniform as they should/could be. How many veneers does your 1/2" have?

 

[gm280]

I know that is the stated way of laying plywood having been a roofer in my younger days, however I thought that with some of the new plywood being produced today that inspecting what you have might be in order. I know some of the Ext. grade I have bought lately has some funky looking veneers and thicknesses are not as uniform as they should/could be. How many veneers does your 1/2" have?

Wood, when I venture back into my shop today, I will take a very close look at the plywoods I have laying around and let you know what I find. And I will install any and all woods to gain their maximum strength for this project. Talk to you later...

 

[Woodonglass]

Hey, not tryin to bust your chops here!!! I really don't think it matters which way you lay it. You basically have a 2' square grid or less and if the plywood is halfway decent and I'm sure it is or you wouldn't have purchased it, it will be more than stable no matter how it's put down. Especially once the foam is in place. Heck, with the foam, you could prolly use 1/4" and feel like you're walking on concrete!!! I'm just pokin my nose where it prolly doesn't need to be poked. I'll go get the pointy hat and sit in the corner now.

 

[Woodonglass]

I'm more than certain that no matter which way you lay your plywood it will be fine. Your 2' grid and the foam will ensure that your deck will be like concrete. Heck, you could prolly use 1/4" and it would still be solid as a rock. I'm just pokin my big Dumb Okie Nose in again soooo I'll go get the Pointy Hat and head for the corner....

​

 

[gm280]

Ha Wood, I did go to the shop and with just the plywood I could quickly grab and photo, here are those results.


This is my first pitiful attempt to use mspaint with lines and such. Obviously I didn't do it correctly BUT, if you are still with me, you can see the actual plywood I used for all the stringers and bulkheads (being 3/4" or actually 23/32" or there about) there are three plies going in the same direction as the both outside plies runs. The two inter plies are end grain wood. So in this situation, installing the ply the lengthwise is its strongest direction.


Here is a better marked up copy. Again notice the two outside plies and the center ply is that same direction. This is another scrape from the stringer and bulkheads I installed.


Her is a totally different plywood I had laying around. This ply is only three plies thick and ~ 1/2". But again the two outside plies are going in the same direction as the plywood length. So it too would be the stronger in its lengthwise direction.


Now for the high end grade Red Oak cabinet grade veneer plywood. Okay now we have a different scenario. This is considered seven ply. But really it is merely five ply with two extremely thin veneers of Red Oak hardwood on the two outside plies. A real total misnomer. While this plywood would indeed have its strongest strength cross grain of the outer sections, who would use it for anything but furniture? But this follows Wood's article to the letter. And since I never ever thought about it, It was good info to remember. But the average consumer will probably never come across any issues with normal plywood In that configuration unless building furniture... So in summary, YES there are different configurations of plywoods and which direction is their strongest. But in reality, not to worry about general usages. So Wood your article has brought some interesting info and opened even my eyes using such plywoods. But my original ideas still holds good... This may be an interesting topic to make into a sticky...IDK. :noidea:

You all have a great day. I will post boat building updates later on... :thumb:

 

[gm280]

I have to post this because now I am interested in how plywoods are assembled. I just got home from Lowes with three more sheets of plywood. Two sheets of 1/2" (~15/32") and one sheet of 3/8" (~11/32"). The 1/2" is four ply with the two outer sides running the length of the plywood and the two inter plies running cross grain to the length. So in this case it make zero difference to how it is laid. The 3/8" is three ply. The two outer sides running lengthwise and the single inter ply running cross grain. So obviously that plywood will be stronger lengthwise... Interesting to see now... :nerd:

 

[gm280]

Some times it is better to be lucky then skilled. And luck has shown it face today with my floor template. Seems I can get two cuts from one sheet of plywood and they actually fall on the bulkheads I installed as well. And while that is what I planned on (actually hoped for), it rarely happens that way. But this time flat, level, and right on target. So while I will cut the floor out of the new 1/2" plywood I purchased today, and poly and cover them with CSM, I won't install them yet. And that reason is because I have so many things yet to figure out how I will install yet, the floor will merely just lay in there for now. I have two seat bases to build and both sides with rod boxes and even the live well. And then the control panel and front platform to install the trolling motor. So all those things will have to be routed before I will PB the flooring in permanently... here is the first cardboard pattern...


Still have to cut the left-hand section straight with the rest of the cardboard. But this is just shy of 48" from side to side at its wide section. Yea!

From a front to rear shot. Notice how flat it is. L U C K Y, but I will take it!



Shot from the port front side to transom. I love it. I know it seem silly to get all excited with just a cardboard pattern, but it came out like I wished it would have. I figured if this thing doesn't work out as a boat, I can always fill up each section now and make it a community bird bath station... eace: eaceful:

You all have a wonderful evening...

 

[bonz_d]

gm, every time you post up pictures I am absolutely impressed. Maybe even jealous!

 

[sphelps]

Very anxious to see how everything gets laid out and dealt with under deck .. op2:
Top notch stuff here !

 

[gm280]

gm, every time you post up pictures I am absolutely impressed. Maybe even jealous!

Oh bonz_d, I've seen your work. You have nothing to be jealous about... But thanks for the kind words anyway. In my opinion, the hardest person for me to impress is myself. And I am a very hard critique as well.

sphelps, I am extremely excited about how this will all come together now as well. I need to cut the floor out and lay it in today (not installed yet but merely laying there) so I can actually get inside and sit and think about how the seats, live well, front control section(s) will be placed. While I have a mental idea, actuality will secure that thinking down solid. So that is my next procedures to work on now. Of course I'll post pictures and hopefully you all can submit ideas as well.

You all have a great day... :thumb:

 

[Tnstratofam]

Gm this boat is gonna be rock solid, and it's gonna Rock!:rockon: You are doing some amazing work.:thumb:

 

[gm280]

Gm this boat is gonna be rock solid, and it's gonna Rock!:rockon: You are doing some amazing work.:thumb:

Thanks tnstratofam, encouragement and kind words does keep me going. . :smile:

Well I'll give today's update but without any pictures to back it up. I did cut the 1/2" plywood and laid it in the hull today for the flooring. And I have to say it looks really nice. However, the very front where the tri-hull actually come into play, it is getting very interesting. I have thought and thought about how to attack that section. I thought about stopping the flat floor section and make three little parts to fit into those tri-hull indentions. Then I thought about starting the front platform for the trolling motor and forgetting about contouring the floor into those sections. It is so close to the front of the boat, I won't get any usable space contouring the floor around them. But I haven't made a decision as to how I want to go yet. But what is already cut makes that boat look very long and wide now. I guess I'll start the seat bases and actually set them in to see how the front section will work out. :decision:

So until I get that finalized, you all have a happy day... :thumb:

 

[sphelps]

Just thinking even though the floor will be hidden by the casting deck you don't want to leave any duck ponds up there for any water to accumulate .. Should it get up there somehow ..

 

[bonz_d]

Have you decided how high the casting deck is going to be or how far back it is going to extend? Personally I don't care for decks that are highly raised. I just feel to unstable in the front when it's 12" or more above the waterline. Have you thought about extending the raised deck all the way back to your 1st bulkhead and leaving it for storage under it?

 

[gm280]

Just thinking even though the floor will be hidden by the casting deck you don't want to leave any duck ponds up there for any water to accumulate .. Should it get up there somehow ..

Actually there is no casting deck going in. The floor will be straight from the transom to the bow. The deck I was referring to was merely a deck up front to attack the trolling motor to and a hatch for some storage underneath. In the original Tom Boy boat design there was a raised front deck and the platform for the trolling motor as well. But I don't want any raised casting deck but one straight floor front to back. So the deck I'm referring too is merely a flat section for the trolling motor and a simple hatch to use as dry storage. And yes sphelps, I certainly don't want any possibilities of standing water on top or in areas underneath as well. And that IS what I am presently working out in my mind to completely eliminate... Thanks for pointing it out though. Such suggestions are very good for others thinking about doing their own boat redesign efforts.

bonz_d, as you've read, there will be no casting deck. So that is why I'm trying to get the most flooring in as possible. This new floor is about 2" higher then the original floor. And while that really doesn't sound like much initially, it allows me to squeeze a few more inches of straight and flat flooring out of this redesign. As the front tapers up, those few inches really moves the flooring forward a lot further. A kind of compounding of varying angle if you will. The original design had a raise front deck about 6" above the floor. But I don't want a raised floor or casting deck. My wife has had a stroke last year. And while she has regained nearly all here capabilities back, thank God, I certainly don't want steps involved for a possible tripping hazard. And I actually like a lower seating height for casting under overhanging branches and such. A lot easier to cast under such obstacles then down at them from a raised deck. I've fished from both types boats... Sling-shots under docks is so much easier then trying to get under such from a raised platform position.

So we will see what happens. Either way, I have worked out provision for water not to sit in any dry storage areas if per change it were to get in...

Again thanks for the replys and following this thread. Keep the suggestions and ideas flowing. I do listen to them all... :thumb:

You all have a nice day... :thumb:

 

[bonz_d]

gm after I posted last night I found I had to go back to the 1st page to get another look at what you started with.

My wife fishes from the front of the boat also and she too does not like being as high as the rub rails. The Alumacraft we now have has about 5" raised platform in the bow and yes it is much more stable when the water gets a little choppy.