Leaky Grumman aluminum boat

vintageglass

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Nov 22, 2010
Messages
80
In 1994 I bought a brand new 1994 aluminum Grumman 14SS, I used it for about a month before buying a larger boat, thinking that it may come in handy some day I stored it rather than selling it.
Its sat in my shop upside down atop of one of the pallet racks every since. Having found a good used 10hp motor decided to pull it down and put it back in use. Keep in mind this boat was 4 to 5 weeks old and in mint shape when I put it away.
I hung the motor, to my surprise the transom wood was like paper, it crumbled just by touch.
I figured no big deal, I cut and glued up two new 3/4" panels, drilled, rebolted everything and sealed all bolts with 5200 Sealer. I take the thing down to the nearest lake and slide it in, to my surprise it leaks like a sieve. The seam around the transom leaks severely, it leaks right down the keel from the bow eye to where the one piece aluminum hull starts, and it leaks at about a half dozen rivets. The transom seam is loose, there's some sort of rubber in between the panels, that rubber looks like thin foam, and its turned to dust. The same I guess for the front seam that forms the V bow. The transom panel has one single row of rivets, about 2/3rds of them are below the water line. I also noticed after pulling the boat back out that about 30 rivet head popped off.
At this point I'm in shock, the boat has never seen salt, I bought it in PA years ago, I only recently moved to NJ and worse yet, the boat don't have 40 hours of float time on it. It never leaked a drop back when it was new.

What is the proper fix for that seam? What I notice is that the gap between the transom panel and the hull isn't even, the gap is greater around the corners than along the bottom and sides. I tried putting a bolt and washers in a few holes to draw the panels closer but its not happening.

What is the proper fix? There's about 150 rivets in all if I were to have to replace every one in the transom, not to mention the loose and missing rivets up front. The boat was stored indoors, dry, in a heated building atop of warehouse shelving.
The rivets look corroded, there's white chalky stuff all in between the panels. The rest of the boat looks new.
How do I support and buck rivets that are under severe tension? If I try to compress the panels on the transom to close the gap, the rivets will be under severe stress, and only a few of them at that. On the transom seam, there's 7 rivets loose on the right side, 3 missing, on the bottom there's 5 missing, and on the left side there's 4 missing and all below the water line are loose. Even the rivets for the bow eye popped off, the heads just popped off, but the bow eye stayed in place anchored by the remaining parts of the rivets due to the angle. When I released rope tension on the winch the bow eye fell to the floor. The boat has never been used with a big motor, it never had more than a 28lb trust trolling motor. What would make a hull or the rivets and rubber between the seams degrade like this? I've got another much older boat that never leaked a drop in 30 years. Having an aluminum boat pop all these rivets all at once is a new one to me.
I am about a 50 lbs heavier these days but the boat can handle over three times my weight, and this trip, I didn't get past sitting down in the boat to realize it was taking on water in a big way.
 

jigngrub

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
Re: Leaky Grumman aluminum boat

First thing I'd do would be pressure wash as much of the seam gaskets out that I could.

Then I'd start replacing rivets with closed end blind rivets because they're easy to install and replace:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0MA1-5NXjs&feature=related

After replacing the rivets I'd use Gluvit or Coat-it on the seams to seal them.

I'd replace the bow eye rivets with stainless steel hardware.
 

reelfishin

Captain
Joined
Mar 19, 2007
Messages
3,043
Re: Leaky Grumman aluminum boat

I've always preferred the end result and look of using stock type solid rivets, but if there's a gap that needs to be closed, maybe a few closed end pop rivets may be the ticket. I use Gluvit on every seam and rivet in any aluminum boat, its cheap insurance. Just remember you have to paint over Gluvit since it will degrade fast with UV exposure.

Its rare for those boats to loose rivets, I own two Grumman boats, both older, neither one has ever lost a rivet or leaked a drop, and I run in saltwater 90% of the time.
 

vintageglass

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Nov 22, 2010
Messages
80
Re: Leaky Grumman aluminum boat

All of the rivets are exposed but I'm not sure I can get any real pressure on the inside of them to compress a solid rivet. Most of the transom rivets are withing a 3" wide gap or channel inside. There's a welded on shelf or ledge across the lower part of the outer transom skin on which the wood rests, there's just no room to hammer the back side of a rivet there.
In the Youtube vid he uses 1/4" rivets, why not just put back the 3/16" size to fit the existing hole?
Also, they sell those in both steel, stainless steel, and aluminum mandrel types. Will an aluminum mandrel apply enough pressure? My concern would be that if I used stainless steel there could be issues with dissimilar metals.
 

jigngrub

Fleet Admiral
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Mar 19, 2011
Messages
8,155
Re: Leaky Grumman aluminum boat

There shouldn't be a problem with using 3/16 dia. rivets if the holes haven't wallowed out.

I personally use and prefer the aluminum rivet with the steel mandrel, these are the strongest rivets and they pull the tightest and seal the best. I use these rivets on my boat and they're very strong. I haven't had any dissimilar metal issues with the little steel BB that stays in the rivet after the mandrel pops off either.

These rivets will be the quickest and strongest fix for your boat and I'll bet money they're stronger than the factory rivets that are in your boat now.
 

Star

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 21, 2010
Messages
481
Re: Leaky Grumman aluminum boat

The problems that you describe can be fixed for sure. The gaps you describe seem unusual for a (new) stored boat. As the boat manufactures found ways to cut costs there was a period of time that they went overboard. I would not waste time and money on this hull. Think about the stresses of those joints as you bounce accross 1 1/2 foot waves at the lake. These joints pulled appart sitting in storage what about the rest of them? There are many 14' older boats for $300 to $400 out there. Get a micrometer and measure the thickness of the aluminum in your boat. The older boats were built like tanks and the alloys were high quality.
 

vintageglass

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Nov 22, 2010
Messages
80
Re: Leaky Grumman aluminum boat

I like the idea of the pop type rivets, but am debating on the aluminum vs stainless mandrels.

I was able to just tap out the old rivets, they weren't stuck at all, most of them turned to dust as I hit them. Nearly every rivet in the transom seam is suspect, I tapped on a few more and they all just fall apart. The surrounding metal is perfect, shiny clean aluminum.
The inside of the hull is painted with gray speckle paint, nearly every last inch of that paint is peeling off or blistered, the wood seats, and transom all look fine but they crumble like dried paper when touched.

I tried calling Grumman to find out if they had any issues back then with rivets, but couldn't reach anyone at the new Grumman either by phone or email.
I also have a smaller Grumman boat, a 12' that's about 5 years older and its fine, it was sitting right next to the 14' hull that has all the problems. What bothers me most is that this boat looks brand new on the outside, not even a scratch yet.

What gets me is that I'm not near the salt air, the boat was stored in a heated building covered with a cloth blanket. Its looks new in every way. From what I've always understood, Grumman was always pretty much top of the line when it came to aluminum boats? The simple fact that this is happening has me seriously puzzled. The dealer who sold this to me now sells another brand, he told me he never once had to repair one of these hulls, he even offered to look at it and supply the labor for free but I'd rather do it myself. He also said that he believes that these were made by Lowe in those years, not the original Grumman company? The HIN plate says it was made in Marathon, NY.

I just did a quick look on CL, the best price I see one any 14' boat there is $950, and that one don't have a title.
I like the lay out of this boat, I bought it because of the open floor, livewell, and storage boxes. I doubt I'd find another boat like this one. It cost me $2400 or so new. The closest I found at a local dealer, in a different brand, was $3,850 for a bare hull, close to the same layout but with an aluminum diamond plate deck vs vinyl coated wood.
 

jigngrub

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Mar 19, 2011
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8,155
Re: Leaky Grumman aluminum boat

The stainless steel rivets are all stainless, mandrel and rivet. The steel mandrel rivets are aluminum with just a steel mandrel, both are pretty strong but the aluminum/steel are strongest.

Even if you go with the 3/16 dia. I suggest you get the heavy duty setting tool (like in the video) because the 3/16 dia. are tough to set with the smaller one handed regular duty setting tool.

People tend to get a little carried away with the dissimilar metals thing. Go and look at any higher end new aluminum boat and there will be stainless steel fasteners all over that thing... engine mounting bolts, deck screws, accessory fasteners and so on.
 

vintageglass

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Nov 22, 2010
Messages
80
Re: Leaky Grumman aluminum boat

The place where I went for rivets gave me the choice between all aluminum 3/16" round head rivets with aluminum mandrels, aluminum round head rivets with plain steel mandrels, or aluminum round head rivets with stainless steel mandrels. The cost difference was minimal.

I'm thinking that the strongest with the least negative dissimilar metal issues would be the aluminum rivet with stainless mandrel.
The dealer that sold the boat originally said that the best bet would be to buck in new original rivets. They gave me a handful of original rivets, but they look short, maybe 3/16" reach at best, and they said I can borrow their rivet driver and tools if I need too.
My concern is being able to get at the back side of the rivet. There's only an inch between the inner panel and surrounding metal inside. (There's a metal pocket that holds the transom wood panel which is welded in place along the bottom, riveted on the sides. The rivets are in line and shrouded by this metal).
 

jigngrub

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Mar 19, 2011
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8,155
Re: Leaky Grumman aluminum boat

Are the pop rivets closed end? They need to have a solid end on them to be waterproof, not the open end used for other utility purposes.

The problem with rebucking rivets is that they're already weakened and they will buck up, buy they will loosen and leak again. Rebucking only works for a little while.

The best long lasting fix it to either install new solid rivets or closed end blind rivets.
 

vintageglass

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Nov 22, 2010
Messages
80
Re: Leaky Grumman aluminum boat

The rivets are closed end pop rivets.
I noticed that with the solid rivets, the choices are hard or soft aluminum. Which would I want to use on a boat?
 
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