Alumacraft FD-4836

[Backwaters2]

Just made a recent purchase on an older 14' Alumacraft boat today. I've been looking for several months for a smaller boat than my 18' Sylvan Sportster. Reason being I like a smaller boat for fishing and getting into and out of the lakes in early spring, and late fall. I've owned several 14' aluminums in the past and thougth I'd give the Alumacrafts a try since they have a good reputation. I plan on replacing the transom, painting the floor, and buffing the hull. It came as a package that included a trailer, trolling motor, 20 hp FD Johnson, two anchors, two seats, one ore, and a radio. Will post pictures as project develops.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Will post pictures

Ayuh,... Cool, can't wait to see it...

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

We have a little 14' Sears that we're pretty sure was made by Alumcraft. We got it for the same reasons you mentioned and it has served us well. We've been using a 4HP with it which actually does pretty well but I just snagged a 15HP for it last week which we'll be trying out on Thursday. I think it's going to haul butt

 

[Backwaters2]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

I received an email back from Alumacraft regarding my Hull ID number and they quickly responded and included an image from the brochure. Turns out it's a 1957 FD 14'. My tag says its rated for a 30 hp but the ad says it could handle a 35 hp. Not sure what the differences would be.

 

[Backwaters2]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Plan for cleaning up the boat:
1. Remove seats, motor, trolling motor, radio, and general clean up.
2. Wash top and bottom with TSP and clean aluminum
3. Replace inside transom with expoxy piece of oak or plywood. (Need to check other sites for best removal techniques without removing corner brackets)
4. Start to polish inside of gunnel to remove any oxidization.
5. Paint bottom of floor and add non slip material (sand) according to factory orignal color (Kind of a mint green)
6. Polish outside of boat
7. Repaint trailer, adjust guides and replace some wood on guides.
8. Put boat back on trailer
9. Put 20 hp back on transom.

 

[64osby]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

3. Replace inside transom with expoxy piece of oak or plywood. (Need to check other sites for best removal techniques without removing corner brackets)
9. Put 20 hp back on transom.

BW, great looking boat On #3 above - It looks to me if you remove the transom supports the transom should slide down and out after all the bolts are removed. Try and keep the wood in one piece to use as a template for the new board. Some here will use epoxy others are using spar varnish.

I love the splashwell on that boat.

On #9 - That should scream with a 20HP on it. I can't believe it was rated at 35HP, you might be white knuckling if you had a 35 on it.

Looks like a great project, have fun.

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Cool find. I took my 14' tinny with FD-20C, 20 hp out today. It was great. Can't wait to follow the resto. Cheers!

 

[Backwaters2]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Transom:

Spent some time tonight after work removing the transom. I found a site that said do not remove the corner pieces and top rail on transom and the best way to remove the inside transom is removing the transom brackets found in the aquaduct pan. I did that and it was not that difficult. The only thing I had a concern about was removing the rivets. I drilled them out, but if your allignment was not perfect you could end up drilling an additional hole near the rivet because the bit slide off the head. After a couple attempts I used a hole punch and small starter drill bit and it worked great. I used 400 wet/dry sand paper on the aqua pan and polished with some mothers polish. Cleaned up good. The back transom will take some additional cleaning to get all the sealer off. It was different to find that underneath the inside wood transom piece it was lined with a piece of cork. I'll make another one upon install. Next, I need to find a 5/4" piece of oak to complete the job. Along with sealer.

 

[Backwaters2]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

More pic after cleaning transom.

 

[Vintin]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Nice looking work!

I've got a 1956 FD3388 that needs some transom work soon and your write up is going to help me a lot. Thanks.

It's a great boat.

 

[Backwaters2]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Busy day today on the boat. Yesterday I made the cut out for the motor transom piece and today I dry fitted the inside transom piece. I thought a piece of 1/2" oak plywood would work for the motor transom piece but after I cut the piece it felt way to weak and seemed soft. Although the outside of the oak ply wood was oak most of the inside was soft wood. I had a an exterior 3/4" plywood in the garage so I used that instead. Its alot stronger. Finding the 5/4" solid oak for the inside transom was a search but I local speciality shop did have the exact piece I needed. White oak. Finally got all the holes drilled an lined up. For the rest of the day I painted the trailer and cleaned that up. Tomorrow I'll paint the exterior transom piece with interlux and I'm staining and sealing the inner transom peice. Need to get some stainless steel screws and finish the job by Monday.

 

[Backwaters2]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Few more pics:

 

[Backwaters2]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Spent the last few days working on the transom. Its amazing how slow things go when your waiting for paint and stain to dry. I put several coats of Spar Varnish on the inside transom oak piece and two coats of polyurethane paint on the outer transom. Sealed the screws with caulk and fastened it up. Seems really strong, although it was strong with the rotted piece on it too. Spent some time trying to polish the outside and will start painting the inside floor today.

 

[Backwaters2]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Few more pics:

 

[vincechig1975]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Nice work , nice lil fishin boat!

 

[Backwaters2]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

I was able to paint the interior hull over the weekend. I used a commercial grade PPG high enamel paint that I have used before on a Lund boat that works really well. I went with a deep shade of green but after putting it on I think its too dark. Probably should have went with a light grey for the interior but I wanted a more rugged look. Oh well, if the green wears out, I can always repaint to grey. It does'nt look too bad. I was able to get the 20 hp on and I'll give that a tune up in the next couple of days and get it back in the water soon.

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

Great job. That 20 hp, will make that thing fly! Here's a handy link to help with the tune up. These old vintage OMC have sort of an odd leg length, so you may want/need to raise the motor such that the anti-vent plate is even, or 1"-2" higher than the bottom of the boat. Keep us posted.

http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/06/columns/max/index6.htm

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

I received an email back from Alumacraft regarding my Hull ID number and they quickly responded and included an image from the brochure. Turns out it's a 1957 FD 14'. My tag says its rated for a 30 hp but the ad says it could handle a 35 hp. Not sure what the differences would be.

Nice job on the boat.

Now to answer your question....... tiller steered boats are always rated at a lower HP then console controlled boats. That would be the 5 HP variance.

 

[Backwaters2]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836

I was thinking the same thing on the tiller vs console and HP ratings which accounts for the 5 hp difference. I put the 20 hp Johnson in the tank today and spent the rest of the day getting it running smooth. It was not able to run with out the choke so I pulled it and cleand the carb. Reinstalled carb after cleaning and same thing happened, stalled with choke off. Pulled carb off again and recleaned, but this time I pull out a plug and found three small holes were clog that were related to problem for the low idle flow. Reassemble and idles fine. Need to take it to the lake tomorrow for a water test.

 

[Backwaters2]

Re: Alumacraft FD-4836



Tested the boat yesterday and the motor ran great. It had plenty of power and you really have to hang on with the 20 hp. I notice at full throttle it started a porposing effect so I made some adjustments to the motor. First I tilted the motor in and second I raised it about on the transom about 3/4" . Tested it again and today it was less bouncey. Next I'll put some added weight in the front to level out the boat. It will probably be the trolling motor battery to be used as ballest. The boat is absolutely dry, handles great in calm waters as well as rough. (Thanks KFA... for the insight on the shaft adjustment)