Wellcraft 186 eclipse stringer and deck restore

Tthomp3

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Feb 13, 2012
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208
My uncle passed away a few months back and she was left with his boat an 1989 (i think) 186 wellcraft eclipse. It has a mercruiser V6 and alpha 1 outdrive, which i think Makes 155hp according to the title. it sits on a newer magic trail aluminum/galvanized trailer.
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I had been out on this boat numerous times and enjoyed being on the water with him, so my aunt decided that she would give the boat to me since she had no use for it. The last time i was out on it (probably 2 years ago) i noticed the floor was rather soft and spongy feeling so i knew it needed some work, but i didn't know how bad it would be. My dad and i went and picked it up on february 14 and I immediately noticed the floor was in worse shape than i thought, I fell through it near the lip of the ski locker. we took it home and i started to clean it out and realized that a tube stored on the bow was holding lots of water on the deck and all the carpet was soaked. I then began to research what i might be getting into and thats when i came across Iboats. Looking over Friscoboater's blog/videos/thread i realized i was most likely in or a full deck-stringer restoration. The next day i began the teardown.
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this is what i found, this didn't scare me too much but when the deck started coming apart without any tools i started to get worried. I got the deck removed without too much trouble haha and with a little help from the roto zip zipsaw, i considered the dremel multi max that everyone raves about but my dad said its for homeowners and were professional haha so i went with the rotozip and it worked wonders. With the deck pulled up I started poking around, and you guessed it, wrotten stringers.
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From here i started the dreaded foam removal and it is as terrible as everyone says it is. It was gross, nasty, and time consuming but after a couple days the majority of it was out
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fI then began the grinding/ itch process and instead of grinding the existing tabbing completely off i took a different rout and cleaned out the channels so that i would have a pre- made form for my new stringers. This made thing a lot easier.
After more research a came across the perpendicular scribe method (not sure of the technical name) for tracing out the stringers. This made things so much easier and i traced all my stringers out on card stock paper before i cut them.
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As you can see in the picture i used a square and some harbor freight clamps to hang my paper on to trace them. Its not a foolproof method but it does work. I did this until all my stringers were traced out and then i transferred the templates onto my marine grade plywood. I cut out all my stringers and then placed them into the boat before i cut them to deck height. i used a string line running from the front of the boat to the back and from side to side to trace my heights. I finally finished cutting an fitting all the stringers today
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This is the point where i am at now. Thursday i will begin to cut out the deck and order my fiberglass, resin, and foam from UScomposites. Ive decided to use the 2lb foam and epoxy resin. Once this is done i plan to finish sanding the deck so i have a good surface to glass to and i still need to grind the deck lip off, which is a great idea to leave in the boat until the stringers are done, thank you frisco for stating this in your videos! I know I'm a little late to the game posting pictures and starting a thread but I've been busy working on the boat, but any tips, pointers, and ideas anyone has are much appreciated. This is my first boat and my first restoration. After only a month i think I'm making good progress, and not to mention I'm only 17, I've had grown men tell me they would have just scrapped this thing. I still need to order carpet, seats ( I'm replacing the original lounge seats with captains chairs), stereo system, pin striping, ect.... so anyone knowing of good sources/ good prices for these items please let me know.
 

Tthomp3

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Feb 13, 2012
Messages
208
Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse

Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse

A few more pics:
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ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 26, 2007
Messages
23,767
Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse

Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse

That's a real nice looking boat. Definitely worth the effort to fix up. Good luck with your project!
 

evolution1985

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 29, 2012
Messages
213
Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse

Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse

G'day mate, Kudos to you! your making quick work of the rebuild. I have a wellcraft as well and I love it.
The bright side is you'll get many many more years out of your boat and enjoy it for a long time to come when your done.
Just quickly, have you checked the transom and engine mounts for rot as well?
Best of luck with the resto mate, I'll keep an eye out for your posts I think this will be a looker when your done :D
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,924
Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse

Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse

Is there a specific reason you're using epoxy? There's really no need for the extra expense. Not saying you can't but...Poly will work just fine and save you a couple hundred dollars. Poly DOES stink to high heaven and Epoxy Not so much. You DO have a lot more wait time between layups with epoxy but you also have more time to get everything set in place before it gels on you. Lot's of trade off's between the two. Just thought I'd make you aware just in case you weren't. I love the lines of that boat and can't wait to see her restored. Also did you cut the stirngers 1/8" to 1/4" short to allow for the bedding material? You don't want them setting against the hull. Check the link in my signature below for drawings on how to fabricate your stringers, deck, and transom. You can't go wrong following Frisco. Kudo's to a 17 year old for tackling this project. I guess there's still hope for the next generation.;)
 

produceguy

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Sep 30, 2010
Messages
1,243
Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse

Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse

Sorry to hear about your uncle.
Grreat looking project.
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
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Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse

Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse

hi.....welcome to iboats....

great looking job so far !

one thing......i would cut the channels for stringers out...

you left them in for a guide.....however.....it will be almost impossible to get a good bond between the old glass and the new wood stringer. especially at the base of the stringer, where all the stress is located during operating conditions.

if you grind off the channels.....then you can just bed in thickened resin....and tab the new stringers into the hull with new csm.
this will give you the bond you need for the stringer base
 

Tthomp3

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Feb 13, 2012
Messages
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Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse stringer and deck restore

I really do love this boat! The lines seem very modern to me and the boat doesn't show its age at all. I gave the motor mounts the tap test to see if they are solid or not and they sound pretty good. theres no stress cracks from the motor in the fiberglass so i decided i would just leave the original ones in the boat. The rot isn't as bad towards the rear of the boat and i don't really have the capabilities of pulling the motor, it just seems like too much work and the mounts really do sound solid. I got a screwdriver and poked at the transom where it is exposed between the motor and the lower unit and it seems fine as well. My dad suggested that we use epoxy because he talked to UScomposites and they recommended it to him because i have never fiberglassed anything and they said it would be easier to work with. I did leave enough space (i hope) for us to lay down peanut butter between the bottom of the stringers and the hull and i did not run the stringers up against the side of the hull. Do you really think i should grind the channels all the way off? i think with just touching up a few spots with the grinder and cleaning the surface with acetone i should be good to go but y'all are the experts!
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
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Oct 18, 2007
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12,932
Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse stringer and deck restore

My dad suggested that we use epoxy because he talked to UScomposites and they recommended it to him because i have never fiberglassed anything and they said it would be easier to work with. I did leave enough space (i hope) for us to lay down peanut butter between the bottom of the stringers and the hull and i did not run the stringers up against the side of the hull. Do you really think i should grind the channels all the way off? i think with just touching up a few spots with the grinder and cleaning the surface with acetone i should be good to go but y'all are the experts!

ok....first off......about us comp....

i challenge that statement.
us comp is a store.....the mark up on epoxy is far greater than the more competitive poly.

as far as ease of use...that is just in measuring amounts. and if you use the metric system...measuring poly with MEKP is very easy....

the other thing....is that epoxy takes far longer to cure than poly...this is 24 hours per layer. so each layer you put on...(1/2 hours work) is followed by 24 hours wait.....then grinding.
poly ...this wait is not necessary.

i am afraid your dad succumbed to a sales pitch.

there is really good fiberglassing info in the link in my sig.

side note.....guys....im currently working with iboats to see if we can fix this area......more to come.

as far as grinding out the channels....
i own a boat repair place...i never leave those channels in the boat...
it is virtually impossible to get the bond of the glass to the wood that is needed when you leave channels.
it would not even be a consideration to leave them if the boat was in my shop.

if you leave the channels....the bond will break at the base of the stringer and the stringer will be held in place by the top section of fiberglass to the stringer...this will cause stress on the bond on the top half...and the stress will be amplified due to flexing hull conditions.
the lowest point of contact between the stringer and the hull is the most important.

you just wanted the channels left for reference....you have got it now...
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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25,924
Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse stringer and deck restore

You should "Core Sample the Motor Mounts and the Transom by drilling into them with a 3/8" drill about 1" deep. Tapping and poking is not a reliable test. The shavings from the drill bit will tell the tale. If they are light tan and dry then you can fill the holes with 3M 5200 sealant and get on with the rest of the restoration. If they are dark brown or wet, then you know they have to come out and be replaced. I don't ever recommend trying to put stringers back in the old glass channels. Getting the new glass to bond well to the old is just to hard to do and it will end up taking more time and effor than if you just grind em off and start from scratch. To many of us have been there and done that. You can use poly and save the money but epoxy IS a bit easier to deal with but like I said takes a LOT longer to set up and cure and really slows down your restoration time.
 

Tthomp3

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Feb 13, 2012
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Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse stringer and deck restore

Okay so the channels will come out, whats another few days of itching after I've come this far?? haha As for the epoxy vs. poly i will talk to my dad about it (he is footing the bill for it because he loves seeing me do all this on my own), I'm sure the lower cost he will be happy to hear about! The setup time for epoxy really has me concerned. I'm really trying to get this project wrapped up by next month as its already in the 80's here in texas and looking at how far I've come in a month i don't think this is an unrealistic goal. And as for drilling a hole in the motor mount, I think honestly I'm just scared at what i could possibly find in there.. Drilling a hole and realizing i need to pull the motor would be devastating at this point. I think I'm going to let it be for now, and i know i will get lots of criticism over this decision.
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
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Oct 18, 2007
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12,932
Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse stringer and deck restore

a typical build of a 19 footer like this is about 15-2000 bux......this includes the foam, and the carpet and all the trimmings.
with epoxy....add another grand.

as far as the project coming in on time...well that depends on you...and how many hours you are putting in on the project.

from where you are now.....i could do the job in a week. so a month is do-able..
with poly resin......its even better as you can do the transom one day,,,,,the stringers the next, and the deck the day after.
then you have the rest of the week do do all the trimmings.

as far as pulling the motor.....dont worry if you have to......pulling a motor in a boat is not like pulling the motor in a car....far easier, and far less time consuming.

if you have to do the transom and the motor cage.....now is the time to do it. !
 

Woodonglass

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Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse stringer and deck restore

You're right, not a popular decision. The motor mounts are VERY critical!!! if they are rotten and the motor moves out of alignment, all kinds of bad things can happen. Hoping and ignoring is NOT a good option when you are in the middle of the lake with passengers!!!! You should know that your boat is sound, not hope that it is. Drill those core samples in the mounts and the transom.
 

Tthomp3

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Feb 13, 2012
Messages
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Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse stringer and deck restore

Well i had a successful day today! i began the process of grinding the the old boxes out so i would have a good surface to glass to (forgot to take pictures) but i didn't get it completed yet. it went slower than i thought and i ran out of flap wheels. I also found out some good news about the motor mounts, they are solid as a rock!!
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When i began grinding i grinded away the outer layer of fiberglass to expose the motor mounts and i was beyond happy when i saw this. The drivers side even has the sticker still on the wood!
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These mounts don't look factory to me but as far as i know they have never been replaced. I was making good progress till i found more wet foam in the very back of the boat and it took me a while to get it all removed.
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I did a core sample on the foam next to this spot and it was dry so i left it. Its very shocking to me that there is still water in this boat. It hasn't been in the water since last summer and it has been covered for 2+ years and the deck has been off for a month. I don't know how after all that time it is still wet under there. The stringer was still solid so that was good news. Hopefully no more bad surprises will pop up
 

Tthomp3

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Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse stringer and deck restore

And i did decide to go with the polyester resin. The price difference was too good to pass up.
 

rickryder

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Jun 24, 2010
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Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse stringer and deck restore

Thats a nice project and you have great guys helpin you out! Looks very similar to the one I did last year ;)
 

Tthomp3

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Feb 13, 2012
Messages
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Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse stringer and deck restore

just read your whole thread ricky, Looks like excellent work you did. Our projects do look very similar, i can't wait till mine is splashed like yours
 

Tthomp3

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Feb 13, 2012
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Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse stringer and deck restore

Fiberglass and resin ordered today! hopefully it will be in by next week so i can get some serious work done! i also bought a suction cup motor flusher today so a motor start up should be in the near future. would be nice to see this baby start up after all this work. Any suggestions on what i should do before startup?? i was thinking about just cleaning the spark arrestor and changing the oils, but how do i go about checking the oil and changing it in the lower unit?
 

Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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Re: Wellcraft 186 eclipse stringer and deck restore

how do i go about checking the oil and changing it in the lower unit?
Annual Service
  • 1 Grease the propeller shaft by first removing the prop nut and associated hardware. Pull the prop straight off. Remove the thrust hub and liberally grease the prop shaft. Inspect the prop for damage. Get the prop rebuilt if needed.
  • 2 Replace the gear lube by removing the filler plug near the bottom of the drive and the vent plug near the top. Allow gear lube to completely drain. Inspect the gear lube for moisture or metal filings. These are signs of damage to the unit. Fill the drive with new lube by pumping it into the bottom hole. When full, replace both plugs.
  • 3 Clean the outer surface of the drive and touch up any nicks in the paint. Use Self Etching primer on all aluminum parts.
 
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