Re: Project "MyLiner" / Deck, stringer, upholstery replacement, maybe more on a Bayli
Re: Project "MyLiner" / Deck, stringer, upholstery replacement, maybe more on a Bayli
hi.....welcome to iboats !
I did one of those. lol....same condition.
Ok.....First things first.
1.......The Pepsi max aint gonna cut it as noted above......get that still pumpin the suds.....and you will have a chance.....always remember....boat buildin and beer drinkin is synonymous.
2. ******VERY IMPORTANT>>>drain the engine block of water and put the out drive in the down position..... !!!!!!!! heater or not.....we have had many a cracked block due to power failures.
there is a shuttle **** at the bottom of the block, open it.......under the manifold there is also a drain....open that one as well. then remove the big water hose from the block to the water pump....
3. The lounge seat bases Usually have to come out to do the deck. you can get away with out taking them out.....but you need to do a stringer job as well.....so out they come.
Remove the seat form the base, giving you clear access to the edges of the base.
Take a sawz all with a long blade, and make a cut starting at the corner,,,,,then go around the edge of the base (on the open side, or the isle way) cutting parelell to the deck. follow the edge till you get to the gunwhale side. once the three sides are cut at the deck line.......then take a small sized blade and start cutting right at the edge of the base near the gunwhale (side of the boat)....just cut the wood...it is only a half inch deep.....so dont go too deep....if you go too deep you will hit the hull....you can feel it....as the saw will start vibrating in your hand.
now that the top side is done.....you need to do the hull front and back edges. be very careful here....run the saw parelell to the hull, but again do go too deep.
after you have cut all the way around the base.....it will still be stuck !!!!.....pour in expandable foam is holding the seat base in place. take the long blade again.... and re cut the parelell inner side (isle cut) get the blade as deep as you can.....again...you will feel if you hit the hull, and cutting the foam is easy.
NOW you should be able to kinda lift a side or edge of the seat base. ....if it does not pop up.....take the long blade, and re cut the inner edge.....stick that blade as deep as you can....feel for the hull.....remember...the foam cuts fast and easy.....if you get to a hard spot......STOP. then just keep prying....and lifting.....it will pop......it is just foam....nothing else under there.
a pry bar or two will do the trick.
4. You have a choice here....you can pull the cap off the boat and go for a full gut....or just take the deck...leaving the cap on....
this decision will be based on the condition of the forward stringers, not the deck floor.....usually the forward stringers are good.
5. To remove the rest of the deck.....set a circular saw at just over 1/2 inch depth, you can cut thru the carpet, eliminating the need to pull it up. cut as close as you can to the perimeter of the deck, usually a 2 inch lip is left.
After all cuts are made.....just pry the deck up. ti is screwed down...so dont expect it to be easy.....most of the screws will be rusted,,,,so they will just come thru the wood.
if you cant get it up..... take the circ saw and cut out the binding area.
The area directly in front of the dog house and aft of the ski locker is your gas tank.....there will be another sheet of plywood under the main deck as a gas tank cover, but take extra caution in that area.
The area of the walk way between the consoles is a problematic area as far as rot is concerned, so that will have to be cut as close to the console risers as you can get.. the uphostered section from console to the floor can be removed, giving you clear acess.
If the front bow is rot, and you are leaving the cap on.....just cut the area with a sawz all.....right next to the seat/deck joint. running the sawzall vertical. (parallel to the seat base) again....feel for the hull.
In the aft section in front of the dog house. its usually rot....leave the dog house and chizel away the remaining wood under the dog house flange.....(when re installing the deck....you can pry up the doghouse flange and slip the new deck under the flange.
The whole process to get the deck up is about 4 hours, depending on your work speed and amount of beer consumed.....
That should hold you for a wee bit !
If you have any questions....please just send me a pm with the link to this thread and your question.
cheers
and Merry Christmas
oops
