Release wax on Awlgrip

woof18

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Aug 5, 2011
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Will Evercoat mold release work with the mold painted with Awlgrip urethane??? That will be epoxy and E-glass over the Awlgriped mold coated with the Evercoat...
Ron
 

BWT

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Re: Release wax on Awlgrip

I'm a little confused why a mold is awlgripped; are you duplicating an existing part? But, to answer your Q as long as the awlgrip is cured the release will do it's job. Curious, would like to see some pics/
 

woof18

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Re: Release wax on Awlgrip

sailbird_6.jpgYes I'm duplicating a part, a pontoon(ama) on my 18' trimaran; the ama is 14' long and I using it as a male mold. the ama is coated with Awlgrip...Why I'm doing this is because the ama is old(1973) poor construction (choppergun) leaks .over weight(74#), and full of foam saturated with water. The new hull will be built with two layers of biaxial 1708 E-glass and epoxy, and them faired and AwlgrippedView attachment 107166
 

woof18

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Re: Release wax on Awlgrip

I called EVERCOAT to check; the person did not know what Awlgrip was but suggested that I make a test piece to see if it released OK
 

BWT

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Re: Release wax on Awlgrip

If the surface is waxed properly it will release, however I don't know if there be any kind of reaction with the paint. It doesn't sound like the "mold" is a sacrificial piece so might be a good idea to do a test on a spot that isn't real visible. Looks like a fun boat to sail; FYI you're going to need to figure in some CSM for the first and last layer as well between the layers of 1708. Where are the leaks on the current pontoon? Kinda wondering if it wouldn't be easier just to work with what's there? Copying this part is no small task. Just a thought...

~BWT
 

oops!

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Re: Release wax on Awlgrip

your existing boat is the PLUG....wax the stuffing out of your boat.......then wax it again....then wax it some more....or just pva it.
use a mold type polyester resin and csm....and make a mold, by glassing over the existing surface of the boat.....make sure you can seperate the parts to get the mold off the hull of the boat.

after you do that......you can build your new part......re wax the mold ....buff to a brilliant sheen.....then wax it again...buff...6x then make your part.....build your boat, fair your boat till it looks good........then paint it.
 

BWT

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Messages
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Re: Release wax on Awlgrip

your existing boat is the PLUG....wax the stuffing out of your boat.......then wax it again....then wax it some more....or just pva it.
use a mold type polyester resin and csm....and make a mold, by glassing over the existing surface of the boat.....make sure you can seperate the parts to get the mold off the hull of the boat.

after you do that......you can build your new part......re wax the mold ....buff to a brilliant sheen.....then wax it again...buff...6x then make your part.....build your boat, fair your boat till it looks good........then paint it.

this is kinda what I mean; alot of work and detail; even for someone that's done this before. Is there any way to salvage your existing pontoon?
 

Yacht Dr.

Vice Admiral
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5,581
Re: Release wax on Awlgrip

Im fairly confident the mold release will work as described without damage to the AG'd plug. I am not worried IF you can pull the mold off .. The biggest concern to me would be the Heat generated from the mold build damaging the plug surface.

Your plug really isnt a plug .. its a working part that has a thin finish on it.

Not saying it will not damage the awlgrip .. but not saying it will not damage it ..

Im assuming your going to put structural supports on your mold.

Just thinking out loud here :)

YD.

PS. Awlgrip makes mold agents too ;) .
 

woof18

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Re: Release wax on Awlgrip

Thanks BWT and OPPS for your advice. I spent a couple of hours reading just part of OPPS thread which was very interesting... My boat is a 1973 and not built that well as they used a chopper gun so as I have been sailing it I have to repair and upgrade the boat as I wear it out, My old GPS had 2080 miles on it before it died so I believe replaceing this ama (pontoon) is the right way to go. Several years ago while sailing a stay pulled a chunk of the ama deck and side out and was dismasted;lucky for us we just got a few cuts and scratches.I beefed it up with glass and epoxy and now have two stays on each side.. The deck was kind of thick but weak and the sides were very thin, the deck bond is not that great ,the inside has foam with water that was not put in by the manf. Anyway the ama weighs 74# which is way over weight , leaks, and now is showing cracks on the deck. Low weight and strength is very important on a performance sailboat as the best boats are built with glass,CF, Kevlar ,and epoxy,with infusion, vacuum bagged and heated . Check out Mark Lindsey..... To do this right I would need a lot more equiptment and time. Meanwhile I now have some health issues where I will be getting some treatment and I'm also allegric to fiberglass dust, so when I sand or grind I need to jump in the canal shortly afterwards, it's also very hot here..ha ha...As far as using biaxial I had to repair the bottom of the main hull(VACA) when I first bought it in 1993 and while sanding the bottom with a belt sander it revealed a 3 foot long hole and where someone poured tar in there as it had a double bottom.With advice of a local who was a boat builder I used two layers of 10oz biaxial and epoxy .It turned out to be very strong, was the same thickness as the orginal which I found out when cutting a small plug to install a suction bailer in the bottom.From looking at the cross section, my glass repair was better than the original since I was careful in the layup. I used two pieces ,the first was was about 4 ft long and second was 12ft long resulting in a very strong bottom. The bay has lobster traps and rocks and very shallow at times and I also sail in open water in the Florida Straights so safety is number one...That is how I came up with the two layers of 1708 and epoxy to build a new ama..The weight should be about 40 lbs when finished plus I will reinforce the area where the stays are attached with E-glass, Kevlar,& CF and where the cross beams are bolted on...Actually I think that one layer of 1708 would be equal to the original hull which is very thin.http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/20764796
 

woof18

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Aug 5, 2011
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Re: Release wax on Awlgrip

I finally finished the two amas and they weigh half of the originals. The hull sides are 1 layer of 1708 biaxial E-glass and 1 layer of 5.8oz carbon fiber with an extra 4" strip along the keel and gunwals using epoxy and finished with Awlgrip..The decks needed a total of 4 layers 2 glass and two CF as they would flex with just 2 or 3 layers; I attached the decks to the hulls with epoxy and West #404....The boat is faster with the lower weight.
Ron
 

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Yacht Dr.

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Re: Release wax on Awlgrip

Nice job mate..

Should I suggest that you edit the 2nd photo and blank out your FL#'s ..

Yea.. I should suggest that you do that ..

Looks like a very good build there mate :) ..

YD.
 

woof18

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Re: Release wax on Awlgrip

Thanks Yacht Dr.
I tried to delete the photo without success...hmmm what do I do?
Ron
 
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