I got a (new)question for you Starcraft guys, Officially a Project

classiccat

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It's easy to tip the rivet if you don't have a bucking buddy, especially one that understands the rivet gun is what does the work and he doesn't have to lean all his weight into the bar. Glen passed on a secret to keeping the rivet set from jumping enough to crescent the rivet head. Put a small piece of duct tape in the rivet set's indention.

Figures....get a tip AFTER the admiral put smiley-faces on about 50 rivets this weekend :facepalm: :lol:
 

jbcurt00

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1 day you'll show those admiral divets to your grandkids CC and then tell them how grandma was a bad arse back in the day: She'd buck rivets :becky:

Great tip, Glen via WM ;) Thanks
 

dozerII

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1 day you'll show those admiral divets to your grandkids CC and then tell them how grandma was a bad arse back in the day: She'd buck rivets :becky:

Great tip, Glen via WM ;) Thanks


Thanks, but I can't take credit for it, I picked it up here on Iboats, I think it was Kayko and some Zebra duck tape he used:D
 

TruckDrivingFool

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Since more time has elapsed than I had hoped should I rebrush everything before I vinegar wash everything to prep for Gluvit? Also since my time line seems to get interrupted quite often how long do I have once everything is dry before I need to get the Gluvit on or start over?
 

Watermann

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I would just soak a clean towel with acetone and wipe the area down and then start applying the gluvit from where you started the wipe down, there's no waiting that stuff flashes off quick!
 

TruckDrivingFool

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My 7 yr old and I took the canoe out last night, Said canoe is stored hung from the ceiling in the garage and while getting it out is ok the putting it away typically requires emptying the garage to make room to maneuver it back onto the ropes. So with the boat and hose out (rinsed out/off canoe) I figured no better time to do a vinegar wash down then the present. With that done and the boat drying in the sun I may three months later get the Gluvit done.

The rest of this is a bit of a side track but since there's no good place to share this, not to mention maybe too many projects is the reason I never seem to get boat things done

While I've used my Tahoe to haul the canoe I find it's easier to load by myself on the pick up. I wanted something to easily convert the existing headache rack to canoe rack so here's what I cobble together

The rack as it is



Fired up the welder and put together some 1' square tubing into a cross bar that slips down into the tubing like a stake in a pocket. It also incorporates a roller made from some PVC pipe scavenged from a home built storage rack that the PO threw in on the canoe deal.







This brought the back up far enough that the front laid on the top of the cab rather than the front of the rack as I had envisioned. Another quick bit of piecing together some scraps and I had a wooden spacer that dropped into place.



Now all it takes to load the canoe is to set the bow on the rear support, lift the rear, and a good push rolls it up into place.



Then it's just flip it and strap it down.



Unloading is just as easy.

 

Watermann

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Hey cobbled or not it's that it works like it should that matters, nice work TDF.

Having time to work on boat stuff can be a challenge alright. There's a ton of small stuff that needs to be done on these old boats that I find myself doing during the smalls after work and build up to bigger stuff on one of my days off.
 

TruckDrivingFool

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Thanks WM,

Did just noticed I doubled a pic and missed my flip it strap it pic. Aw well you get the idea

On real happenings - got a coat of Gluvit on.:D

Used a paint brush to lay a bead in the seam then smeared the overflow over the rivets. Made a second trip around to redistribute the runs/drips back up onto the rivets and found a few spots that looked like the bead had sucked down into the seam. Those spots got a 2nd bead applied.
Mixed up ~ 12 oz total (half batch) had maybe an ounce left over.
 

TruckDrivingFool

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Everything Gluvit looks good except one spot

By the fourth rivet up



This was a known leak spot and one of the places I laid a second bead because it sucked in the Gluvit.

Question - to get a good bond should I sand, wipe down w/ acetone, blow out w/ compressed air, reapply Gluvit?

Any other types of epoxy that are easier to mix just a dab of I could use?
 

Watermann

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You could but I bet the gluvit has made it into the leak at the seam unless it ran out the bottom that is.

Here's what I would do. Let the gluvit cure up and then do a leak test to see if anything else is leaking. If so mark the leaks and do them all at the same time.
 

TruckDrivingFool

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:blue:


On the upside the leak at the side seam sealed. I'm going to try another coat in conjunction with tipping the stern of the boat up to get the Gluvit to stay in the valley. Does the first coat of Gluvit need a roughing up before I do a second coat or just wipe it down with some acetone?

This is the first actual leak test I've done on her so I've found all the leaking rivets (all rib rivets) which are oddly enough all on the SB side, Trying to decide if I'm going to just replace or try rebucking them and retesting after I get the 2nd coat on the brace plate.
 

Watermann

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Dropping the tongue of the trailer down so the gluvit will stay in the keel seam and seal is a good idea.

I would use something like a 3M scrub pad to scratch the surface and then wipe it clean with either a tack cloth or towel. I wouldn't use a solvent on the epoxy.

Bucking the leaky rivets might work, replacing them with new and 5200 will work.
 

TruckDrivingFool

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Trouble is it's leaking along both sides of the entire brace plate, rivets all seem to be sealed but can watch water just percolate out of the seam., thinking of creating a form over the top with tape and filling it with Gluvit.
 

TruckDrivingFool

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I'm in a video mood today so may I introduce my re-bucking partner,


With the rivets re-bucked I moved onto attempt #2 with the Gluvit


I babysat it like that about every 15 to 20 minutes for the next two hours. After two (or so) hours it was starting to tack up and was about the consistency of honey. I then pulled the tape out and used the brush to squeegee the excess off and back into a mixing cup.

I have my fingers crossed for this application as in one spot on the outside of the seam I can see what appears to be resin starting to squeeze out. My next resort is to clean as much of the factory sealant off the outside and lay a fillet of 5200 in there.

Wish me luck. :)
 
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TruckDrivingFool

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Had to spend the day working on my truck to get it ready for vacation next week but I did sneak a leak test in and I'm happy to report that my technique paid off. The brace plate is now sealed and re-bucking sealed 11 of 16 leakers. Replace 5 rivets and I'll either be on to a floor or stripping the paint from the topside. Really not looking forward to going back paint stripping but I still have yet to make a decision on flooring material so maybe I need the time to ponder.
 

TruckDrivingFool

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Well folks been a busy year of life getting in the way of boat progress. We spent the last week of June at the lake playing in the big boat for vacation and that has me re-energized on this little lady.

​My little bucking partner and I braved the heat today and commenced replacing the five rivets. I didn't have any 5200 so I figured if today was too big a fail we'd chock it up to practicing and could come back and redo them with 5200 if need be, so with five rivets replaced a leak test was commenced. Other than two rivets needing a touch more setting I'm quite proud to say our first attempt at solid rivets was a success. :)

​While we were leak testing I found a few more seepers so I convinced my helper that since it was hot and a boat filled partially with water was like a swimming pool. She gladly climbed in the water with the bucking bar and we commenced rebucking. The good - this strategy actually worked well as I had instant confirmation that we had stopped the leaks The bad - rebucking made two leak worse. Since I had everything right there I just went after drilling and replacing them which worked well I just had to work fast to keep from getting too soaked. :rolleyes:

​At the end of it all we're down to 3 rivets that just barely seep so I'm called it good and we're moving on. I spent the rest of the day detrimming the cockpit/cabin(?) in preparation for stripping the topsides of paint. Small but necessary steps to get moving on this again.

​On another note I got the go die because we really want to sell you knickknack photos and you aren't buying any email from PB, so I need to start working on clearing my stuff off of there and having them out of my life, the question is there now a way to imbed pics into a post through the iboast uploader or does it still just tag them on at the end of the post?

​I like being able to imbed them as I think it gives such better context to the pics but anything is better than nothing when it comes to pics.

​In typical forum fashion now that I've asked I'm off to look for answers to my photo questions.
 

TruckDrivingFool

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Thanks Waterman, I'll check that out too was looking at the pic posting tutorial and trying to figure out loading them to iboats server seems best place for pics for the forum.

​And - Oh it was just a year off of the boat, no rest for the wicked. I lurked the forum here n there but have been busy with rebuilding a porch and getting the wife through a minor hip surgery.
 

TruckDrivingFool

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Aw snap


Paint is all stripped, for a while there I didn't think I'd ever be able to make that statement. :D

On to filling un-needed holes, anyone have a recommendation for some of those low temp AL brazing rods? I think I want go that route if I can get it to work out on some test pieces.
 
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