1968 starcraft hoilday 18 i/o 120

[third times the charm]

top view.......not bolted up tight, just a test fit, but I can imagine it running

 

[third times the charm]

Nope, treat the copied IMG code just like an other text you might copy and paste into your reply:

Just right click at the end of a sentence and paste the IMG code into your reply. If you're using the IMG code, don't use the link, pix, attachment or any other option of the forum software, JUST paste it where you want it like this:

Thanks JB!!!! it was late and I just didn't get it last night, lol. now the pics are up!!

 

[jbcurt00]

By george, I think he's got it

Yep, pix all posted. FYI, you can post more then 1 pix per reply. Just seperate them by a linespace (return for those of you old enough to have actually used a typewriter) or a description of the pix.

Retired outdrive looks like its seen some heavy action and is definitely ready to retire.

 

[third times the charm]

I am going to do a hard wash down to the inside this weekend and get it ready for Gluvit. I filled it up with water the other night and looked for leaking rivets, didn't find any at all, but better safe then sorry. I guess the last time I had on the water and had the leaking issue it was the outdrive letting water in. I am still playing with color options at this point.:torn: bone and yellow?????.....bone, yellow, and black???? bare polished aluminum and black????? Bone and teal???? :facepalm:

 

[jbcurt00]

Bare and black looks great together, but I dont think Ivd want bare or black on the topsides anywhere. I dont think I've seen anyone paint w a bone color. An off white not quite cream or tan was an SC factory color IIRC, but I dont think I'd describe it as bone. My remembering correctly is a 50/50 quess at best... :facepalm:

If you paint yellow or bine, whats the interior vinyl going to be?

 

[third times the charm]

Bare and black looks great together, but I dont think Ivd want bare or black on the topsides anywhere. I dont think I've seen anyone paint w a bone color. An off white not quite cream or tan was an SC factory color IIRC, but I dont think I'd describe it as bone. My remembering correctly is a 50/50 quess at best... :facepalm:

If you paint yellow or bine, whats the interior vinyl going to be?

Ok, bone would be considered off white, that would be the main color, the yellow would be a stripe detail, and of course the outdrive and engine ( cant help myself)
the interior would be off white (snap in carpet) and the seats would be off white with the yellow incorporated in. use the fold down seats at the dash on each side, that would make a seven seater.( i got a big family now)The v-6 swap will eat some of the room in the back for jump seats. I was thinking of building a full back bench seat instead, giving it an engine compartment for battery banks, etc, etc. plus the back bench would make great storage under the seat.

 

[Watermann]

Oh boy your dismantling the the sterndrive transom assembly. I'm not sure what you have going on there but the drive and bell housing should come off first or go on last, not sure how you got to that stage?

 

[third times the charm]

Oh boy your dismantling the the sterndrive transom assembly. I'm not sure what you have going on there but the drive and bell housing should come off first or go on last, not sure how you got to that stage?

no, that has already been dismantled. that's is the alpha one that is in in place of the old MR-1 drive. I just modified the hole for the alpha one and mocked it up for a look and a pic. the bell is just temporary on and drive I just slid back in place just enough to see. its all back out and separated in my garage for now.

 

[jbcurt00]

Ok, bone would be considered off white, that would be the main color

I'm sorry, I meant are you talking about a color that is very similar to a factory color, and you're calling it bone, or an entirely custom color you picked, bone? I was trying to 'see' what color you were talking about....

 

[third times the charm]

Awww, yes JB it will be a custom color.... something around off white, I like white but hard to keep clean, and with my brood it makes sense to look at something off tone. there wont be too much factory on the starcraft at this point in mind. the basic idea will be there but with a few modern upgrades and personal tweeks.

biggest upgrade will be the 4.3 merc. why, some of you might ask?? I love that engine, and I like staying in my comfort zone for now. :loco:

 

[Watermann]

Let me know if you need any specs on building the new motor beds for the double motor mount 4.3L. Also if you need the measurement spec sheet for the 4.3 just send me a PM with your email address and I will fire you off a PDF copy.

 

[GA_Boater]

Awww, yes JB it will be a custom color.... something around off white, I like white but hard to keep clean, and with my brood it makes sense to look at something off tone. there wont be too much factory on the starcraft at this point in mind. the basic idea will be there but with a few modern upgrades and personal tweeks.

biggest upgrade will be the 4.3 merc. why, some of you might ask?? I love that engine, and I like staying in my comfort zone for now. :loco:

Watermann won't question your move to the 4.3. He might even pass on some stealth secrets to smoke some glassers on the water.

 

[Watermann]

Hows about a little inboard porn for ya tttc? :heh:

Sparkling phantom black 205 ponies! :eyebrows:

 

[third times the charm]

Let me know if you need any specs on building the new motor beds for the double motor mount 4.3L. Also if you need the measurement spec sheet for the 4.3 just send me a PM with your email address and I will fire you off a PDF copy.

That would be great.... I will send that to ya in the morning when I get to the office. Yeah those specs will be very helpful

 

[third times the charm]

Hows about a little inboard porn for ya tttc? :heh:

Sparkling phantom black 205 ponies! :eyebrows:

That is sweet...... That is about what I am looking to do. 205....225 HP would be smokin!!!!

 

[third times the charm]

ok, so here is a update..... I ordered my Gluvit yesterday, should be at my house by the week's end. I will pull the rotted transom out this week, and do one final scrub down for the seam waterproofing.

I have spent the last couple of days you tubing all of frisco's videos and countless others:couch2:. I read a interesting form the other night on wood transoms and throwing this out to see what the experienced mass's think.:behindsofa: Instead of using two 3/4" layers of plywood, use three layers of 1/2" and laminating as described here:

- first layer laid down like normal, center axis at 90 degrees or zero degrees(depending how you see it)
- second layer is turned 12 degrees from center axis left from the first piece
- third layer will be turned 12 degrees from center axis right from the first piece (really there will be four layers, but the last layer is just the smaller square at outdrive)

it was explained how having the Grain not all running the same direction which helps with strength. Makes sense to me.....
There was a comment about not using just resin only to encase the transom wood because that will cause the wood to split down the road... Do I need to put one layer of glass on it.....:noidea don't want to start upsetting the TIN GODS already)

And I think I am going to video and photo doc for this thread, just so there is a step by step on here for others, and you all can give me a hard time when I screw up on camera. :facepalm:

 

[jbcurt00]

Plywood is stronger in 1 direction (usually along the 8ft length) then the other (across the 4ft width) and has cross grain laminations already.

I'd be interested to read thru the info about why 12degrees and how they came up with that plan. Plus that"ll chew up a lot more plywood rotating it that way.

Interesting idea, but Id definitely need more info to be convienced its a good idea.

 

[jbcurt00]

Frisco was working on a glasser w polyester resin so you need fiberglass.

Using epoxy, typically you dont need fiberglass....

 

[Watermann]

I vote for 2 x 3/4" for the transom as the factory did and the rest of us here. To seal I used spar, primer and the tractor paint on my transom. The original had a smearing of whitewash on it and it was only partially rotten 40+ years later

 

[third times the charm]

Plywood is stronger in 1 direction (usually along the 8ft length) then the other (across the 4ft width) and has cross grain laminations already.

I'd be interested to read thru the info about why 12degrees and how they came up with that plan. Plus that"ll chew up a lot more plywood rotating it that way.

Interesting idea, but Id definitely need more info to be convienced its a good idea.

That's what I have always been taught, about the plywood anyway. I have chewed on it and honestly that was going to be more work:facepalm:, but I wanted to do it right.


JB.......

yeah I but when I was watching all his vids, and that was mentioned, a flag went off in my head. I was just clearing that up.... Thanks!!!



"I vote for 2 x 3/4" for the transom as the factory did and the rest of us here. To seal I used spar, primer and the tractor paint on my transom. The original had a smearing of whitewash on it and it was only partially rotten 40+ years later" - Watermann



yeah buddy, that was my first plan as well, and i guess stick to it. Your right, mine is 40+ years old as well, and only partially rotted. The rot is more from the leaking around the old outdrive to the transom then time. BY THE WAY...... great specs on the 4.3 :thumb::rockon::first: