1976 22' Starcraft Islander Rebuild

bajaunderground

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"If it has wheels or floats, you're gonna have trouble with it!"

Congrats on the splash, that boat looks amazing sitting in the water. That windsheild make's it look very sporty! You'll have the issue all figured out in no time. You know that boat inside and out, a little trouble shooting and BAM, 45MPH!

~Brett
 
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BWR1953

Admiral
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Jan 23, 2009
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Congrats on the splash!! Awesome stuff! :eagerness: :nod: :thumb: :target: :clap2: :rockon: :party:
 

Patfromny

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She does look great in the water bud. Soon, we Jas fans will have nothing to look forward to. Like the end of the Sopranos or something. Until you start the big one that is 😊
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Super cool to see the bowlander on the water since it's transformation :thumb: Even though things didn't go as planned with the motor you must of been happy to be out there on the waves in her. :D

Tune ups can do wonders but it sure sounds to me like too much air and not enough fuel when you advanced the throttle.
 

wilkboater

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Jun 19, 2009
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You started this thread a few months after I signed up on iboats, I've followed it through the years, it's pretty awesome to see it floating. You're not the only one who has waited a long time for this! :) It looks really good in the water.....congrats!
 

Patfromny

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It might be a bit of a pain to do but take the boat out and duplicate the stall. Don't restart but pull a plug and see if it's wet or dry. If wet, you're getting fuel. Maybe a spark issue or still a carb issue. Once you restart, the plug will clean up and will be useless as a diagnostic tool. For whatever reason, recordings don't really duplicate the engine noise but it sounded to me like it ran rough for a second or two when you restarted. It could mean that the plugs are wet and it runs rough until the plugs burn off the excess gas.
 
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jasoutside

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AOK, I do believe you guys are right on the carb being the issue.

Carb adjustments is all pretty much black magic to me. So, tell me what you see here:
 

dozerII

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Oct 25, 2009
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Hey Jason did you try disconnecting the throttle and stroking it to see if there are two solid streams of gas going into down the throat? I would try that first then take the fuel line off the carb and stick a hose over the end into a clear jar, you want to see a good stream of gas going into the jar as you turn the motor over, if there is then take the filter out of the carb behind the fitting the line screws into, you will see right away if it is plugged. You are running a water sepearating filter back at the tank correct? If so you won't need the one in the carb. Let me know what you find!

Sorry I missed that you stroked the carb with out the linkage in the first video, it's real hard to see was there a good shot of gas?
 
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Watermann

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Sounds like lots of air being drawn in and not enough fuel to stay running. It's like enough fuel is coming in for the idle circuit but when you get to the main jets it stumbles. That could mean the fuel delivery isn't enough or the jets are plugged. Pull that fuel inlet line off the the carb and see if there's a screen in that big adapter that's got crud on it.

Looks like your choke plate is out of adjustment as it shouldn't get sucked closed or move when you apply throttle. Was the motor warmed up to not need any choke?
 

TruckDrivingFool

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405 pages and this thread finally pays off :D

I know how bad it sucks to be this close and be tripped up trying to figure out a motor issue but soon enough it'll be nothing but bugs in your teeth as you fly across the lake grinning.
 

jasoutside

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Well guys, I'm definitely working my way into territory that's outside my knowledge base and comfort zone. Fiddling with and rebuilding carbs is something I think I otta leave to the pros. I could probably learn how to do this stuff but it would take me a long time, the learning curve would be steep, and the risk of my errors would be great (remember, this boat will be on one of the largest lakes in the world).

So, as I see it, here are my options:

1. Send out this carb to be rebuilt. Somewhere in the $200 to $250 range. Couple of weeks time maybe.

2. Haul this boat over to my local marine dealer for a carb job. Who knows, maybe $500 to $1000 depending on what they feel like doing to it. Maybe a 2 to 3 weeks timeline.

3. Buy a new carb at $250 to $300 range and it could be to my door in a couple of days.

Sheesh, buying a new one sure seems like the way to go for me.

But here's my question: If I pick up a new one, is it really kind of a "bolt on and go" sort of a deal?
 

stevecur

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Feb 22, 2012
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You need to check that filter where your fuel line comes in to the carb first. There is a large nut that the line connects to. Open that up and there is a stone type filter there. I've had them do the same as yours when plugged.
 

jasoutside

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Yup, i'll pull that off and double check that nothing is clogged up there before I go any further.
 

Watermann

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I wouldn't rebuild one of those carbs either Jason, only for an OB where you have multiples and they cost 600 ea.

or the choke that was floppy, I got rid of my old stove pipe choke and went with electric, was about a 20 min job is all and pretty cheap too. The only thing that had me worried on the job was removing an intake bolt for the sensor, I had to add some thread sealer and re-torque it is all.
 

Patfromny

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Well, the little spurts of fuel coming out of the carb tell me your accelerator pump is working. I would hold the carb open like that and stall it. Then do the plug check trick. I think it my be lean. But the plugs will tell you the tale. I think the carb venturis are clogged. I think that is their name. They are the circular deals hanging in the middle of each carb bowl. They are what delivers the fuel to the engine. Air rushing past them actually draws the fuel out of them. I would carb cleaner any tiny holes on and around them in hopes of opening the clog. Another trick that I just learned over the holiday weekend is to keep the engine running as fast as it will go and choke it slightly. Just enough so that it doesn't shut off. This just might break the clog free. It did for mine. It will also be a bit of a diagnostic tool as well. If the engine runs better with the slight choke you might have a vacuum leak. Either from the carb or intake manifold.

I am guessing you have a clogged carb though. I seem the remember you running it on a pallet and revving it without any problems. This seems to be a problem that has popped up since you have owned it right? Clogged carb is my guess.
 

jasoutside

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I got rid of my old stove pipe choke and went with electric, was about a 20 min job is all and pretty cheap too. The only thing that had me worried on the job was removing an intake bolt for the sensor, I had to add some thread sealer and re-torque it is all.

That's good info, I may need to look into that....

I am guessing you have a clogged carb though. I seem the remember you running it on a pallet and revving it without any problems. This seems to be a problem that has popped up since you have owned it right? Clogged carb is my guess.

Yah, ran fine on the ground when I first got it though I didn't go much past 1500 RPS at that time so it may have very well been a problem then too.



All right so funny story........

Yesterday when I was running the boat, trouble shooting and whatnot, I decided to be done, jumped out of the boat, shut off the water, came inside, went on about other things, decided "ya know, I should make a quick video for these guys so they can see what I'm seeing".

So grabbed my phone, came out to the boat, shot those videos you see up there, then i happen to notice the temp climbing on my gauge.....huh, that's strange, it was running cool before.......AH!!!! Forgot to turn the water back on!!!!

HHHHHAAAAAHAHHHAHAHAAAAAHAHA! Funny story right?

:facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::facepalm::cower::cower::cower::cower:

Yah, real funny. I'm dum.

OK, so yah, looks like I'm installing a brand new water pump to replace my brand new water pump that came with my brand new SEI drive.

Ugh, one step forward, two steps back, grumblegrumblegrumblegrumble
 

GA_Boater

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Jason - You have decapitated an Islander, built untold tin boats, resurrected several outboards and swapped a WLOD for a Mercruiser, And you don't want to touch a 4 pound hunk of aluminum?

2 barrel carbs are cake to rebuild. You should get a rebuild kit for the carb, a can of Berryman's carb dip and go for it. Using a Sierra kit, you're into it for about 50 bucks. If it doesn't work, then you have the options you brought up.

BTW - Getting a rebuilt or new carb is not plug n play. The carb still needs adjusted to optimize for your motor.

DISCLAIMER - All of the above are the expressed written opinion of a guy who will try anything at least once, then pay someone to really fix it. In 50+ years, paying has only occurred 3 times. Maybe I'm lucky. :noidea:
 
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