Restaining Mahogany.

THE BEEF

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 11, 2005
Messages
432
Im refinishing my Mahogany windshields on my boat.
Last night I rubbed in stain filler,it looks good.
my question is when I put the first coat of dry wood sealer on it would it hurt
to put it on a area that was varnish? The varnished areas have been sanded
with 220 grit paper.
Thanks, Beef
 

mthieme

Captain
Joined
Oct 6, 2007
Messages
3,270
Re: Restaining Mahogany.

Wood sealer is meant to go on before varnish as I'm sure you know. It will not hurt anything though. In fact, you might be able to wipe it off of any varnished areas. I use a water based product on furniture that this can be done with. I've only used sealer on red oak for boats. Mahogany and teak, I just go straight to my finish product.
 

THE BEEF

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 11, 2005
Messages
432
Re: Restaining Mahogany.

Thanks for your help. The reason I am starting with dry sealer,I was down at the Skiff Craft boat company open house and the finisher said to always start with 2 coats dry sealer after staining. I can tell you there work is breathtakingly
beautiful. I wasn't sure if it would hurt putting over varnished spots.
Thank,s again
Beef
 

halas

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 27, 2009
Messages
347
Re: Restaining Mahogany.

Don't forget that they use the fast drying sanding sealer to speed-up their professional jobs.
Having to wait for long drying time between coats would increase cost.
I personally would not use the sanding sealer. I would apply the marine varnish over the stain and let it dry well between coats. Lightly sand between coats with 320 grit paper.
I think that the marine varnish is the most durable product for exterior use. It could still: not last for very long depending on usage and storage of the boat.
 

Capt. Mike

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 19, 2008
Messages
134
Re: Restaining Mahogany.

My boat is 62 feet and all teak decks. Epiphanes varnish is the only varnish to use. Don't waist your time with anything else.

USE A SANDING BLOCK. You will never get that build up look without it. Just cut a pice of wood 1.5 wide X 4 long X 3/4 thick, or what ever size that works for you.

I like to use 100 grit to knock it down and 150 to smooth it up between coats

Use a scratch pad not 320 sand paper between coats, you use sand paper to get it smooth. Epiphanes has a varnish that you don't have sand between coats, except to get it smooth. You can get a scratch pad at any auto parts.

Here is my decks just starting this year. remember that when we work on our boat everything has to be done with speed or most people get burnt out before they finish there project.

DSC_0021.jpg
 
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