MFG Gypsy 15 Tri-Hull Restore advice needed

Driven1

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Hi folks! This is my 1st post of probably many. I recently aquired an MFG Gypsy 15 Fiberglass Tri-hull circa early 70's that I'll be using as a family run-about and fishing machine. I also have a 1957 Crestliner 16 Ft Aluminum Deep-V. I love the Crestliner but a day of fishing can really put a hurtin' on ya. Figured the MFG would be a lot easier on the back and it was free! Couldn't argue with the price but I knew I had some work ahead of me.

The MFG had been sitting outdoors, uncovered, for many years allowed to fill with rain water, freeze and thaw. The floor, stringers, and transom are totally rotted out of it but the glass itself is in good condition.

Here's what I've done so far. I've ripped out all of the rotten stringers from the back of the boat up to the beginning of the console area. Because of the way the boat was originally constructed, I wasn't able to get to the rest of the wood that's under the console without causing some major re-assembly problems later. The wood under the console isn't totally rotted so I felt I could get away with it as is.

I've also taken out what was left of the old transom, It was mostly intact but terribly wet and swollen, rotten from top to bottom in the center area. Someone had previously tried to do a cheap fix on it by drilling holes in the outer transom glass and injecting some sort of resin into the separation between the plywood and glass. I've ground it all off down to the original rove. I've never seen anything like the stuff. It was nearly as hard as porcelain! If you hit it with a hammer it would chip off just like porcelain or glass.

After I got that all cleaned up, I noticed that the transom fiberglass had a lot of stress cracks and also found some minor interior cracks where the transom meets the sides of the hull (most likely due to freezing and thawing). So I ground out the cracks at the hull/transom corners, prep ground the rest of the transom area, and then reinforced all of the corners with Tiger Hair. I then glassed over the entire transom area and corners with 2 layers of matting for additional strength and sealing.

So that's where I'm at. Essentially i'm ready to start putting things back together. This is where the questions begin...

1.) As I mentioned, the wood under the console up to the bow was not totally rotted and is still fairly solid. I've heard that treatment with Ethelyne Glycol (Anti-freeze) is very effective for killing the bacteria and fungi that promote rot. True or false?

1.a) If true, will the Ethelyne Glycol create bonding problems with other nearby glass work?

2.) It appears that this particular model of boat wasn't very well though out from a water rention point of view, which I'm sure contributed to the rot over the years.

Essentially, if water does get into the hull, it has no place to go until it reaches a certain level and there are areas that it can pool in. In it's current configuration, once water gets into the bottom of the boat much of it will stay there with no chance of the hull below deck ever being truly dry.

The main problem is foam and poor manufacturing engineering. I believe that the manufacturer used foam for two reasons in the stringer area. One for flotation and secondly (where my problem begins) for side support of the stringers. These stringers don't appear to be associated with hull stiffening, just simply floor support. The reason I say that is because there was just a single thin layer of matting applied to their sides to hold them in place.

The foam seems to be in relatively good shape. I know there's a lot of differing opinion on foam in the bottom of a hull. So here's what I feel my options are because I don't want water just laying around in the hull to do it's nastiness to all of my hard work later.

A. Leave the foam as is and coat all of the replacement wood with resin to seal it from the water. (Which I plan on doing regardless)

B. Shape the foam (removing most of it) to still provide support for the stringers and better water flow off and around them.

C. Tear all of the foam out and glass the stringers in. (The least favorite of my options.)

On to the transom.

I will be coating the entire transom with resin when I'm finished making a new one out of 2 pieces of 3/4 ply laminated together. On the laminating, should I use resin and matting or can I get away with something like gorilla glue which is much cheaper?

There is no evidence that the transom was ever laminated to the transom glass at the back of the boat. All that I can see that was really holding it in place was 2 to 3 layers of matting covering the entire transom to the hull from the inside of the boat and not very thick either, 1/8 in. at most. Should I do the same thing or laminate the transom to the glass using resin and matting, then glass over the transom on the inside and beef up the corners with strips of rove? I'm thinking that's probably the best way to go, but obviously a lot more work (and money).

The floor. The floor appears to have been "stuck" to the stringers with a thick fiberglass resin of some sort. I'm wondering if I can get away with using a heavy duty plywood floor or wall adhesive instead. My concern is that the adhesive won't stick to the fiberglass resin that I'm going to be coating all of the wood with.

Here's a pic of the stringer area...

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I know that this was a long 1st post and I appreciate your indulgence. I look forward to everyone's input!
 

Mark42

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Re: MFG Gypsy 15 Tri-Hull Restore advice needed

MFG's are well known for their very heavy duty hull's. Some of the post-60's designs were not the best for stringers, but all in all they are very well built boats. Just the fact that yours is still around after 35 or so years is proof enough.

The neat part of a tri hull hull is that it is very strong even without stringers. But some support is still needed for the floor and overall hull support. So, some folks will disagree with me on this, but this is what I would do with that tri-hull:

Remove all the stringers, even if it means cuttin more floor out to get out the stringers. Also remove all the old foam regardless of its condition. Then install new floor, cut 2 or 3" holes with a hole saw every 18 or 20 inches and pour in foam and let it expand and pop out the holes. The foam will glue the floor to the hull, it will add the needed stiffness and structure that is missing since you removed the stringers. It will also save you a lot of time and fiberglass work. Be sure to seal the floor to the hull and fill the holes with the plugs taken from the hole saw. One or two layers of glass on the pressure treated plywood floor, and you are good for many years of trouble free boating.

Be sure to box in a 1x1ft area in the aft up against the transom so any water that gets in will have a place to go, and install a bilge pump in that area.

The tri hull is a very rigid design from the start, filling it with foam will make it very strong. Use polyurathane foam, not polyester foam. It will last 20 years easy before water becomes a problem. By then, stress fatigue may take its toll on the hull and it my be past its usefull lifespan anyway.

That is what I would do, other will disagree and insist on stringers and open area to drain water.

BTW, foam comes in different densities, the common is 2lbs for basic flotation. 4lbs foam is considered structural. Use 4 lbs foam and it will be solid as can be.

Just my 2 cents...

Mark.
 

Ezrider_92356

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Re: MFG Gypsy 15 Tri-Hull Restore advice needed

PL polyurathane construction adhesive can be used to laminate the transom together instead of resin/woodflour
 

Driven1

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Re: MFG Gypsy 15 Tri-Hull Restore advice needed

Mark and Ezrider, thanks for your replies!

Mark,

The foam is an intriguing idea. I checked it out on www.uscomposites.com. I think the 1st thing I'm going to need to figure out is how much foam I would need before proceeding with the idea. Due to the shape of the hull, it's gonna be tricky trying to figure it out. Any ideas on how I could get the proper measurements so that I can estimate how much foam I would need to purchase?

Thanks!

Edit: Almost forgot another question related to this. Does the foam work similarly to "Great Stuff" in that it has a tendency to "Push" surrounding structure outward from the foam. In the case of pouring under the floor filling the entire space, will the foam push up the floor as it hardens?
 
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Mark42

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Re: MFG Gypsy 15 Tri-Hull Restore advice needed

Mark and Ezrider, thanks for your replies!

Mark,

The foam is an intriguing idea. I checked it out on www.uscomposites.com. I think the 1st thing I'm going to need to figure out is how much foam I would need before proceeding with the idea. Due to the shape of the hull, it's gonna be tricky trying to figure it out. Any ideas on how I could get the proper measurements so that I can estimate how much foam I would need to purchase?

Thanks!

Edit: Almost forgot another question related to this. Does the foam work similarly to "Great Stuff" in that it has a tendency to "Push" surrounding structure outward from the foam. In the case of pouring under the floor filling the entire space, will the foam push up the floor as it hardens?


Not sure how to estimate the volume of space. Maybe fill with water and drain it into buckets to see how many gallons it holds?

Yes, the foam does put pressure on the hull and floor as it expands. Thats why you need to have a few good size holes for the foam to expand out from . Check out "project long haul" on shareaproject.com to see how iboats member Realgun foamed his boat. I think he added weight to the floor to help keep it from bowing.

And don't forget that the foam sticks to everything it touches. So it glues the whole structure together, and that helps with rigidity. But it also makes for a mess if you get it where you don't want it.
 

Driven1

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Re: MFG Gypsy 15 Tri-Hull Restore advice needed

Thanks for turning me on to project "Long Haul." Gave me a better idea of what I'd be getting into using the Foam idea. His stringers were good so he screwed the new floor to the stringers and glassed in the edges of the floor around the hull. He then poured the foam. Even with the floor attached to the stringers and glassed in around the edges, the foam still pushed causing him to place a rock on the floor to counteract the pushing.

So it would seem, using this method, that the stringers are still a necessity. I can only imagine what the floor would have done without being attached to the stringers.

It's still an interesting idea though. Still thinkin' about it.
 

Mark42

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Re: MFG Gypsy 15 Tri-Hull Restore advice needed

Thanks for turning me on to project "Long Haul." Gave me a better idea of what I'd be getting into using the Foam idea. His stringers were good so he screwed the new floor to the stringers and glassed in the edges of the floor around the hull. He then poured the foam. Even with the floor attached to the stringers and glassed in around the edges, the foam still pushed causing him to place a rock on the floor to counteract the pushing.

So it would seem, using this method, that the stringers are still a necessity. I can only imagine what the floor would have done without being attached to the stringers.

It's still an interesting idea though. Still thinkin' about it.

It will still work without the stringers, you just need to leave enough holes to let the pressure out. Also, realgun was not adding the foam for strength, he added it for floatation. If he had left larger openings in the floor, he would not have had the problem of the floor pushing up.

I think your boat lends its self well to a no stringer foam job. Especially because there is just a narrow section in the center, and not a wide area like a deep V.

Good luck with whatever route you choose!
 

Driven1

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Re: MFG Gypsy 15 Tri-Hull Restore advice needed

Good point on the area to be foamed. I also think, in looking closer at "The Long Haul" that the stringers themselves may have created part of the pushing. I may do as you suggested and fill the boat with water up to the lower floor line to figure out what I'd need in the way of foam. The foam's coverage is described in cubic feet. So, if I fill the boat and then drain it measuring how many gallons I drained, I can find out the cubic footage by multiplying the gallons by 0.133680556.

Thanks for all of your input!
 

Driven1

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Re: MFG Gypsy 15 Tri-Hull Restore advice needed

After this morning's existing foam inspection, I'm leaning way more towards the stringerless "Foam Job" as described by Mark. The existing foam is shot and waterlogged 3 inches up from the bottom of the hull. I'll be tearing it all out today.

So....

Anybody want to chime is with a/or reason(s) I shouldn't go with the stringerless foam job?
 

newbie_owner

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Apr 26, 2008
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Re: MFG Gypsy 15 Tri-Hull Restore advice needed

Keep us updated and take a ton of pictures along the way. I have a MFG Gypsy 14 would like to try the stringerless idea as well.

Thanks
 

Driven1

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Progress Pics and description Part 1

Progress Pics and description Part 1

Well, I still haven't totally made up my mind on the foam job. At the moment, due to monetary constraints, I'm considering partialy replacing the stringers and dropping a floor in it with preparations for a future foaming. I'd still have to put some supports under the floor while working on it anyway for a stringerless foam job.

Newbie, Here's the pics of my progress in 3 posts due to the site's limitations. Didn't think this boat was going to be as much of a project as it's turning out to be. I'll give descriptions for each pic. I apologize for some of the blurry or oddly colored pics. Camera's been acting up.

1.) The boat as I received it. The boat was free. I paid 100 for the trailer. Couldn't see taking the boat without a trailer!

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Note the partial pile of rotten plywood I pulled out of it sitting on the stern.

2.) The Mess...

Someone else had ripped what was left of the floor out of it...

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A better view of the stringers and foam...

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This is a view from above the transom. I had noticed earlier that the fiberglass was cracked outward from the transom, indicating freezing. I removed the home-made aluminum cap that was there and this is what I found...

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The wood at the top was mushy and soaking wet. I have some wood bits that are about a foot long, so I got out a 3/8" bit and tested the wood from the top down in several places. Fully rotted 6 to 8 inches down and 4 to 6 inches into the wings. Bad news. Not just looking at a floor replacement anymore.
 

Driven1

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Progress Pics and description Part 2

Progress Pics and description Part 2

Just for fun, and most people won't do it this way (It's usually done from the inside), but because I knew I was going to have to do a full replacement I drilled some test holes in the back of the stern to see just how much water was laying in there...

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Got about a quart out of it!

So next I figured it was off with the top. Apparently (because it's the only way I can figure they did it) They must have assembled the cap in 2 parts with no forethought that it may need to come apart someday. MFG used screws with nuts to hold the cap on. I believe they put a partial cap on, bolted it down, and then glassed in the front seats and floor. Unless you're Elastic Man, there's no way to put it back together with the front seats and floor in. More bad news. So I had a choice to make and this is what I chose...

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I figured it was gonna be a lot easier to glass that back together instead of trying to glass the front back in!

With that out of the way next was tearing out the old transom and all of the rotted stringers...

I used a chisel and punched through the tin layer of matt that was holding the transom in...

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and then took the transom out...

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And Oooo, looky what I found...

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At some point in its previous life, someone must have know the transom was either going bad or shot altogether and tried to fix it by drilling holes in the transom and injecting some sort of resin. The stuff was like Milk Glass. If you hit it with a hammer it would break like glass. Needless to say, it didn't work. More great news.
 

Driven1

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Pics and Description - Part 3

Pics and Description - Part 3

Soooo, needing a flat surface to work with when I actually replace the transom...

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I ground it all off with my trusty 4" Ryobi Hand Grinder. Went through one and a half disks on the stuff!

So now I've got all of the rotten wood out and the boat cleaned out. It's inspection time.

Oh, what's this? Fine cracks all over the transom glass. And this here? Stress cracks in the corners. Great. More work. So I cleaned and roughed up all of the corner surfaces with my trusty grinder, gouged the cracks, wiped it all down with Laquer Thinner, and then reinforced the corners and cracks with TigerHair. Then I glassed the whole inside of the transom glass over, past the corners, with 2 plys of matting to improve strength and seal it...

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All done, right? WRONG. In my discussion with Mark about doing a No Stringer Foam Job on this boat I decided to see what shape the existing foam was in. It looked pretty good from the top and sides and seemed good and solid. Just to be sure I cut out about a 4"x4" section in the center foam. Totally soaked 3 to 4 inches from the bottom. Yay! I get to do some more work...

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So I tore out all of the foam and that's where I'm at at this point. I also drilled a small drain hole on each side of the center tube to provide water drainage from the inside of the foam boxes. Gotta wait for some more cash to fill this hole in the water. In the meantime I'll be working on the finish to see if I can get 'er to shine again.

Thanks for looking!

Still need to know a couple of things relating to the transom needing to be laminated to the outer glass or not (see my 1st post) and if ethylene glycol (Anti-Freeze) really is good for rot control.
 
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Ezrider_92356

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Re: MFG Gypsy 15 Tri-Hull Restore advice needed

as far as the antifreeze goes, in my oppion i think it probably works better as a preventative measure than it does a cure. i have contemplated dumping a gallon in the bilge at the end of each season for its over the winter nap. and then capturing it all before going out boating the following season. i have never done it as i sold my running boat the end of last summer thinking i would finish my project boat before spring... well that didn't happen i'm still working on it.
 

Driven1

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Re: MFG Gypsy 15 Tri-Hull Restore advice needed

EZ,

Thanks for the reply about the Anti-Freeze. There's still some wood under the console area that I can't get out of the boat without turning it into an even bigger project than it's already become. The wood there is in relatively good shape but has some signs of beginning to rot. So I'm going to let it get good and dry and then spray it a few times with anti-freeze to kill any fungi and bacteria left that might continue to work at it. Hopefully, when I button the floor up, I won't have to worry about that wood going bad also.

I'd prefer to get the wood right out of there and replace it but I'd have to cut part of the bowrider section out to do it because the wood's glassed to the hull. There'd be no way to do a good (invisible) job of glassing the bowrider section back together afterwards.

Thanks again!
 

Andy in NY

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Oct 25, 2007
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2,109
Re: MFG Gypsy 15 Tri-Hull Restore advice needed

Keep us updated and take a ton of pictures along the way. I have a MFG Gypsy 14 would like to try the stringerless idea as well.

Thanks

Looks like we are all in the same boat... I also have a 14' gypsy with the same issues.

EZ,

Thanks for the reply about the Anti-Freeze. There's still some wood under the console area that I can't get out of the boat without turning it into an even bigger project than it's already become. The wood there is in relatively good shape but has some signs of beginning to rot. So I'm going to let it get good and dry and then spray it a few times with anti-freeze to kill any fungi and bacteria left that might continue to work at it. Hopefully, when I button the floor up, I won't have to worry about that wood going bad also.

I'd prefer to get the wood right out of there and replace it but I'd have to cut part of the bowrider section out to do it because the wood's glassed to the hull. There'd be no way to do a good (invisible) job of glassing the bowrider section back together afterwards.

Thanks again!

Thankfully, the bow seats in the 14' are molded to the gunwale, but not the rest of the hull so I plan to take the gunwale right off.



I just want to make sure I understand, but the plan is to NOT put new stringers in? Fill the entire void with 4lb foam? what would hold the deck down on the sides, just glass joining it to the hull?
 

Driven1

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Re: MFG Gypsy 15 Tri-Hull Restore advice needed

Andy,

Yup, that's the idea. No stringers at all. And I agree with the idea because once you get into it, you'll realize that the stringers in these boats are really nothing more than floor supports. They don't really provide much structural strength to the hull. The floor, after pouring the foam will essentially be glued to the rest of the boat in its entirety. If you've ever used "Great Stuff" you know that it will stick to damn near anything other than plastic. The pour foam is essentially the same stuff and works the same way. The structural strength will also come from the foam. Really, when done, the hull will have massive structural strength, way more than original and the boat would be totally unsinkable. You could still capcise it, but it definately wouldn't sink.

Here's the procedure I plan on using when I can afford to do it...

VERY IMPORTANT 1st STEP. LEVEL and SUPPORT the boat! Then...

1.) Make some small floor supports to place in the old stringer channels and resin them in to hold the center of the floor up while working on it.

2.) Prep the new floor edges with a coating of resin and lay in the floor. No need to screw it down anywhere.

3.) Glass the edges of the floor solidly to the hull making sure that everything is totally sealed off.

4.) VERY IMPORTANT HOW YOU DO THIS! Drill 2" or 3" "pour holes" using a hole saw in the floor saving the cut-out plugs for later use. Drill the holes starting from the front to the back about every 8 to 12 inches. Keep in mind that there are 4 "sections" to pour running from front to back in this particular boat.

5.) Put some weight on the floor with cement blocks from front to back. I plan on using about 3 rows of 9 to 12 blocks. This is also an important step because as the foam expands it will try to push the floor. The pour holes, if done correctly should eliminate most of the push.

6.) Step back and make sure that everything is preped properly and that there are no areas where foam will come out where you don't want it to. IF after pouring it does, let it cure and THEN trim it.

7.) Prepare for the pour. The job will have to be done in muliple pourings because once the 2 part foam is mixed you have VERY LITTLE TIME to pour it. Make sure you have everything you need and are totally ready for the pour.

8.) Do the pour starting at the front, working left to right and towards the back.

9.) Sit back, enjoy a couple of brews, and wait for the foam to cure.

10.) Trim the foam that expanded through the pour holes and anywhere else that needs it. IF FOAM CAME OUT ANYWHERE YOU DIDN'T EXPECT IT TO, these areas will need to be trimmed and then sealed with glass.

11.) Recess the pour holes to the depth of the plywood with a router.

12.) Place the "plugs" that I saved from drilling the pour holes back into the pour holes and resin them in with a mixture of resin and wood flour (sawdust).

13.) Glass over the floor and paint.

14.) Sit back, enjoy a couple more brews, and admire my work.

It sounds like a lot of work but I don't really expect it to be that bad. Really the only thing you'd be doing differently if just doing a standard floor replacement is the drilling and resealing of the pour holes. The rest is essentially the same.

Disadvantages - None really other than even though the foam is relatively impervious to water it IS NOT water-proof according to the manufacturer. It will degrade over time (a very long time, longer than you'll last probably) and become more receptive to water retention. This is why it's very imortant that water is TOTALLY sealed from the below deck area.

Advantages - Nothing but. Stronger hull and floor, better stress distribution through the hull, sound dampening, better swamping or capcise flotation, no wood to rot, increased value.

Just as long as the deck and bilge well are maintained properly, you should never have to worry about replacing a floor or stringers again, ever. (Of course, had this boat been maintained properly over the years the same would be true.)

Hope that helps you Andy.
 

Driven1

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Messages
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Re: MFG Gypsy 15 Tri-Hull Restore advice needed

Oh, almost forgot Andy! On the Gunwale...

My seats are also molded to the gunwale, if you pull the covers off underneath the consoles you'll see a problem with pulling the entire gunwale off (which was my 1st intention). If yours was constructed the same as mine, MFG used screws through the rubrail with square nuts on the inside of the hull to attach the Gunwale to the hull. You can't get at a good portion of them to put the Gunwale back on. I belive MFG did the Gunwale in 2 sections attaching the Gunwale 1st and then glassing in the seat and floor section. you might want to check that out before starting to pull the rubrail.
 

newbie_owner

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Apr 26, 2008
Messages
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Re: MFG Gypsy 15 Tri-Hull Restore advice needed

Thanks a lot for posting those pictures. Looking at them has made me realize something about my boat. When I bought it, the owner told me that the previous owner put in a new deck a few years ago. I think the way he did it (at least by the pictures I see here) is that he cut away and removed the area pointed out in green. Then added some cheesy laminated wood supports to hold up the dash. Now the dash is sagging inwards on both sides. I am going to have to rebuild the dash somehow. I will add some actual pics once I take some. That being said, I think it will be easy to rip up the old deck and replace it now.
 

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Driven1

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Re: MFG Gypsy 15 Tri-Hull Restore advice needed

Mine also has that problem. I intend to pry up the floor in that area and put some new supports under it using the center window to guage what the height should be. When it opens and closes properly, I'll know I've got the right height and then make the supports to fit.
 
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