Ultra Tuff Non-Skid Coating

hgmatt

Seaman
Joined
Jul 26, 2007
Messages
69
I'm putting together this post because I couldn't find much information on this message board about the Ultra Tuff Non-Skid Coating. I've made several post on people who've installed it asking about the durability, so I figure that this might be a good way to help future restorers.

I've just finished replacing the sole in my '89 Bayliner Capri 1700. I replaced the work done by a previous owner, who took major short cuts and after 6 months the wood began to warp and the fiberglass that attached the sole to the hull began delaminate from the wood & hull. I guess not enough fiberglass and poor lay-ups created this problem. Anyways I replaced the entire sole from bow to stern with 5/8" CDX exterior grade plywood laminated with poly. I also rebuilt the front bow seats with the same grade ply & laminated with poly, built a rear bench to replace the built in jump seats.

I decided early on that I wanted to remove the carpet to help reduce the impact of water on the sole. So, after some research, I discovered Ultra Tuff Non-Skid Coating, a one-part polyurethane paint with rubber granules distributed evenly. I think this solution is a little more expensive than simply painting the sole with a top side paint and finishing with a fine sand. One gallon of this stuff roughly covers 50 sq ft, so on larger boats, the flooring could get quite expensive. I chose this product mainly due to its availability, color and ease of installation. You can pick it up at any BPS or Cabalas (sp?), for $70 a gallon. I haven't seen a comparable product at IBoats, but a similar product is known as KiwiGrip, and has gotten fairly decent reviews at Bateau Boat Building site.

I installed this covering over the last few days, first by sanding & acetoning the sole to get a surface the primer could adhere to. I used the Ultra Tuff CP-10 Primer (which is clear & I didn't realize that until way after it cured), which is a two part primer that is excellent and easy to use. I let the primer cure for several days (due to work & extracurricular activities) and installed the non-skid surface last night. From the recommendations & instructions, I discovered that it takes roughly two coats, one thin to help with surface adhesion and one thick for the non-skid surface. When I looked at it this morning, it looks great, it hasn't fully cured, as it takes 24 hours before light foot traffic and then 7 days for heavy use (classified in their manual as for heavy cleaning). I'm taking the boat up to the lake this weekend, so with the use, the floor should hold up.

Only negatives I've heard from this product are that it seems to get hot when the sun shines down on it all day. We'll see about that! I chose gray as my color as it matches the current color scheme of the boat & will match the future color scheme. Also, I hope to reduce the glare from the sun by not going with white or an off white (plus, here in GA, we have a huge problem with red clay, its everywhere and quickly stains white surfaces). I'll write a full review of how the surface performed this weekend with skiers and drunkards.

http://picasaweb.google.com/matthew.madden/BaylinerCapri170080Complete

Above link is to pictures of the boat in its current condition.

Moderators, if this in a poor choice in topic please let me know. I'm not trying to advertise this product, I found there was a lack of experience/knowledge of this product on this board, and most of my questions had gone unanswered.

Thanks,

Matt
 
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hgmatt

Seaman
Joined
Jul 26, 2007
Messages
69
Re: Ultra Tuff Non-Skid Coating

Alright, weekend one is done. Took the boat out for a weekend of skiing and general nonsensery (sp?). Definately like the feel of the tuff coat as it a little rough on the feet, but provides a great surface and no slipping. The only problem I found was that after it sits in the sun for hours, it gets pretty hot. In fact, too hot for no shoes; however, this is mitigated by wet feet all about the boat, so not really a big deal. It was in the mid 90s this weekend here in the ole GA, so it didn't take long for the floor to dry right off.

Overall I'm really impressed with the floor. I'm ready to clean it, as the dogs decided to get dirt and mud all over it. But according to the manual, need to wait for seven days until finished curing to clean. So, I gots to wait until Wednesday/Thursday to do so.
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: Ultra Tuff Non-Skid Coating

we used to take a bucket of water and throw on the deck to cool them, that was in the old days before carpet. i have used grizzly grip with great success.
 

marquette

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 18, 2006
Messages
372
Re: Ultra Tuff Non-Skid Coating

hi
i'm wondering about the cdx laminated with poly. did you coat regular exterior cdx with poly resin? i'm asking because i have never seen a cdx with any kind of poly laminated to it at any of the big box lumber yards. i'v been wanting to put the same Ultra Tuff in my boat when i finish replacing the floor. but i have been planning to use treated plywood but it is very rough surfaced and from what i understand poly resin doesn't stick to it very well unless the wood is dried for several months. and that much time is not an option.
it's good to hear some one talk about the coverage per gallon in real world use vs what it says on the can. you got 30% less coverage that what the can says you shoulg get. at $70 per gallon that is a lot of extra money.
 

hgmatt

Seaman
Joined
Jul 26, 2007
Messages
69
Re: Ultra Tuff Non-Skid Coating

My floor consist of exterior grade plywood at 5/8" thick. It's not laminated when I buy it, have have to do the lamination myself. I used polyvinyl resin (stuff you buy at home depot) to coat the wood especially the edges as that's where moisture is most likely to penetrate. What I did was grind out the old floor, cut the sheets of ply to fit, and then coat the whole thing with resin. I can't tell you quantities, but the wood didn't soak up as much resin as I thought it would. Next I installed the ply to the floor using deck screws & PL9000 to the stringers. Then, I used fiberglass mat, roughly 1.0 oz with a layer of fiberglass cloth (not sure the weight) to tape the new seams. Then when all was complete, I laid a layer of 1/2 oz. fiberglass mat across the entire deck. From there, I built whatever seats I needed, then sanded the surface as smooth as possible, floated another layer of resin on top.

Prior to priming the new surface, I sanded the surface according to the directions on the primer (24 - 36 grit sandpaper or in my case, 40 grit flapper disk for the 4" angle grinder). Tried to get it as smooth as possible - then primed. I had a ton of primer left over, so I kinda went hog-wild priming every surface. This failed miserably as the poly resin you buy at home depot contains wax, and if you don't prep the surface correctly, this primer WILL NOT STICK and only beads up.

As for the surface coating, I discovered that I did indeed have less than 50 sq/ft as I had a bit left over. From what I can tell, 50 sq/ft is pretty close as to what you can expect from this gallon.
 

Blue2Green

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 12, 2011
Messages
130
Re: Ultra Tuff Non-Skid Coating

I am thinking of using this as well. Thank you for the basic information. Can I ask about the durability since it has been awhile since your post. Thank you
 
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