Welcome Guest - Sign Up today
Welcome Guest - Sign Up today
Store Links Mobile - Shop Now



We're excited to announce the launch of our NEW Fiberglass & Epoxy Boat Repair & Building section on iboats.com! See more details!

This new area was created specifically to meet the needs of those of you who participate in the iboats Boat Restoration, Building, and Hull Repair forum. To kick off the launch, we are giving away free product in every order over $100 as follows:

Spend $100-149: Get a free paint suit (Large only)
Spend $150-199: Get a free sandpaper finish pack & paint suit (Large only)
Spend $200-249: Get a free catalyst dispenser
Spend $250-299: Get a free Sufasolve hand wipes
Spend $300-349: Get a free Aqua Blue buffing compound (quart)
Spend $350-399: Get a free small tint kit
Spend $400+: Get a free Preval sprayer

To qualify for the free products, select any Fiberlay, Spectrum Fiberglass, System Three, or Gibco product.

Also, we have discounted our already low prices by another 5-15%. Stay tuned as we will be giving away 3 $100 iboats gift certificates from May to June to be used on the new fiberglass and epoxy products.

To view the new Fiberglass & Epoxy Boat Repair & Building, go to our Fiberglass section.
See more
See less

Heavy Fiberglass Oxidation

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Heavy Fiberglass Oxidation

    Can someone tell me the best way to repair heavy oxidation on my 26' Searay Sundancer 1982? I have read so many different ways that I would like to know what works best from someone's experience.

  • #2
    Re: Heavy Fiberglass Oxidation

    Most guys swear by the 3M products. Or if real bad,wet sand then the 3M products with a buffer.
    Or there is Poli-Glow, It works pretty well after about 5 coats and will last all season.Its the easy way to get a shine..

    1981 ChrisCraft 210 Scorpion K,175 Johnson SeaHorse


    • #3
      Re: Heavy Fiberglass Oxidation

      What works best is sanding, compounding and waxing - period !!!!!
      Life may not be the party we hoped for, but while we are here we might as well dance


      • #4
        Re: Heavy Fiberglass Oxidation

        Search this section with the word COMET and see what Mark42 wrote. That will be some 1st hand testamonial and results. 3m products are very big money when compared to what they do.
        This is a great link to boat specifications http://boatspecs.iboats.com/
        Please, shop iboats first!!


        • #5
          Re: Heavy Fiberglass Oxidation

          For a 26 ft boat I would use a random orbit sander with 1500 grit paper then buff with a lambs wool buffer and automotive type compound then if you really want it to shine use a foam pad and some fine compound. Then the finish is smooth not covered up like with wax. Problem is all the small spots and curves that have to be done by hand.


          • #6
            Re: Heavy Fiberglass Oxidation

            Wash with Greased Lightning.
            Wet sand by hand, 1800/2000 grit.
            Rinse well with terry cloths.
            Let dry and rinse some more.
            Power buff and power polish.
            Time: one sixpack on sunday.
            Enjoy the results!

            The Lead Dog has the best view.


            • #7
              Re: Heavy Fiberglass Oxidation

              I have many years of experience buffing classic cars and experimented quite a bit before settling on this method. The results are spectacular. My boat looks way better than anything on a showroom floor.

              Pick up the following 3M products: 6" PSA sanding discs 400 grit and 800 grit, heavy duty rubbing compound, Finesse-It, powdered guide coat, double-sided buffing pads. You'll also need a high-speed polisher and a 6" dual-action sander.

              Work about 9-15 square feet at a time. This should take 30-45 minutes with some practice. Sand the finish well with 400 until the chalky faded color that is powdering off is gone and the hard original gelcoat color is revealed. Remove loose dust and guide-coat the 400 scratches. Sand with 800 being sure to thoroughly remove the 400. Remove loose dust and buff 1-2 square foot areas at a time until the 800 scratches are gone. Wipe off compound residue with a damp rag, flip the pad and repeat with Finesse-It until the compound swirls are gone. With some practice one thorough pass is all that is needed at each step.

              800 buffs out fine with the heavy-duty compound. Anything finer is a waste of effort if your gelcoat is as bad as mine was. Removing the dead gelcoat and leveling the surface by sanding first is critical. The Comet method or buffing alone can only remove the most deteriorated gelcoat and restore some shine to a surface that still looks like non-skid texture under a microscope. Doing it right takes a bit longer but the result is a better-than-new finish as long as there is sufficient gelcoat present on the hull.

              Note the color change:Example

              The amount of oxidation is somewhat evident where the original waterline stripe was removed. The gelcoat under the stripe was still at least the thickness of a vinyl stripe higher than the UV exposed gelcoat adjacent to the stripes.


              • #8
                Re: Heavy Fiberglass Oxidation

                Well, I tried the Comet and Scotchbrite pad and I'm nervous! I did the transom area which is burgundy and black. It took any shine off and left it very dull and hazy. Now am I suppose to use an oxidizer and then wax? Please tell me that I will be able to bring the shine back! I'm not going to do any more of the boat until I can be certain I'll be able to put a shine back on her.


                • #9
                  Re: Heavy Fiberglass Oxidation

                  If you don't want to use power buffers, Many coats of "Gel Gloss" from Home depot, with some absorbing time in between, maybe a week or so, (not sure exactly how much?) but it will clean, & polish, better each time, and it's made for fiberglass cleaning, plus very inexpensive. Use it on your sinks, bathroom enclosures, & countertops, around the house too! "Seapower" is the Marine name for it, but it's the same thing, only more expensive. Or, just cheat like me, and rub-in vaseline over everything, let it sit in the heat, and wipe off the excess as it bakes in, the boat will look like new, the color, & shine will be restored.


                  • #10
                    Re: Heavy Fiberglass Oxidation

                    VASELINE , really ? Does it work? Doesn't rub off on you whenever someone rubs up against it?


                    • #11
                      Re: Heavy Fiberglass Oxidation

                      After the comet treatment you need to use an electric buffer and buffing compound. There are coarse fast cut compounds and finer compounds that will give a higher gloss, you don't always need more than one type of compound though, most of the time you can get fairly good gloss just using one.


                      • #12
                        Re: Heavy Fiberglass Oxidation

                        Originally posted by smithrock View Post
                        VASELINE , really ? Does it work? Doesn't rub off on you whenever someone rubs up against it?
                        You rub it into the boat, leave it in the sun, or heat, preferably, then wipe the excess off with a rag, or paper towels, when it starts to look dull, a day or so later. The boat color, & shine, will look outstanding, and it will remove some dirt, & grime. You will probably have to remove the excess a few times, as it soaks into the boat, but it will get to a point when it no longer smears. It will last awhile, but I can't say how long, depending on the particular situation I guess. It is easy to do, and gives the quickest, best results,for the effort. Recently, I bought a used Bayliner that was badly weathered, and had a large short name on both sides in white vinyl, after removing it, of course under the name appeared unweathered, after I did the vaseline treatment, the name disappeared.

                        As an experiment, I also tried "Gel Gloss/Seapower" over this after a few days, and it took off all of the black tree spots (dirt), and it cleaned it real good, but lost some of the shine. The shine reappeared as the Gel Gloss soaked in about a week later, and the boat started to fade some, letting me know that it was working, and time for another coat of Gel Gloss.

                        By the way, either, or both of these will clean up stainless, aluminum (window frame), chrome, and the vaseline will make your vinyl seats, baby soft, but expect to be removing the excess a few times before you get the great final result. I did this to my jet ski last year when I got it, the seat is still soft, & full of color!


                        • #13
                          Re: Heavy Fiberglass Oxidation

                          After using the Comet, should I now use an ozidation product or a rubbing compound before I use the polish? Any suggestions on which works best?


                          • #14
                            Re: Heavy Fiberglass Oxidation

                            Hi Smithrock,

                            Got your PM. After the Comet, the finish will be very dull. Thats a good thing, because you got off all the loose dead gelcoat and have found a solid surface to work on. Borrow or buy a polisher, don't use a bonet in a drill. I tried that and almost gave up. Then I bought a cheap polisher (about $40)and used regular auto rubbing and polishing compounds to bring up the shine. I ordered mine from harborfreight.com

                            The least expensive is the stuff off the shelf at your auto parts store, about $2 a can. Thats what I used. There are also more expensive "stick" or "rouge" abrasives that rub onto the polishing wheel then apply the wheel to the surface. Its cleaner, but more expensive.

                            To use regular paste auto compound and polish, use a damp 1-2" paint brush and brush the paste onto the surface, then run the polisher over it. You can use your bare fingers, but a brush is so much easier. Be prepared for polish to get flung around a bit.

                            Let the polisher do the work. In a few minutes you will see shine. after doing all the boat, go back and do it again with polish. Then apply wax. I used Turtle wax.

                            Lots of folks have used this method and got good results. The results depend on how bad your gel coat is. Other people will tell you to just use a polisher and use the Rouge sticks.

                            I would not use Vaseline, Transmission oil, motor oil or any other oil because you don't know how they will react with the old gel coat. You might end up with a gooey slimey surface as the gel coat disolves.

                            In the links in my signature, you will find the polishing writeup in Shareaprojec.com.

                            Good luck. And don't forget to post some pictures of your work!
                            sigpic 1985 Bayliner 1600 Capri Cuddy, 1965 MFG Niagara Custom. >> MFG Video<<. >> MFG Project<< >>Bayliner Hard Top Project<< >>Bayliner Repower Project<<


                            • #15
                              Sign up today
                              Re: Heavy Fiberglass Oxidation

                              Why not just pressure wash it, clean it and dry real good then spray Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel, wouldn't that work?


                              Back to Top