How do you flare a brass, through hull, bilge fitting?

MercMark

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 20, 2003
Messages
149
Have a new transom and floor in my boat. I epoxied in the brass tube that sticks through the transom to drain the bilge. The end which was flared is inboard and the straight end is outboard. It sticks out about 1 1/4". I expect that I need to cut it so that there's about 1/4" sticking out and flare that out against the outside if the transom. From a watertightness point of view, I could just cut it off flush, but I'd like it to look a little finished.

Is any of this right?

and how do I flare it?
 

andy6374

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Aug 4, 2005
Messages
1,617
Re: How do you flare a brass, through hull, bilge fitting?

You need a flanging tool. Like this

http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/4,6791.htm

You actually need the whole link, not just what is underlined!!!

They are not cheap. You could do it with the right size ballpen hammer if you are careful. I think the tool is worth it if you plan on fixing up boats here and there.
 

JasonJ

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 20, 2001
Messages
4,163
Re: How do you flare a brass, through hull, bilge fitting?

Here is how I do it. First of all, I would not have used epoxy. My belief is that for this application it is too brittle. I use 3M5200. It is flexible, sticks to anything, and is very strong. I only say this because putting in and tightening drain plugs could over time break the bond between the epoxy and the brass sleeve. Then you would have it rotating in the hole, it could be a possible leak source, and could lead to transom rot. It just won't happen with 5200.

As far as flairing, the way I do it is to cut it 3/8th inches from the surface to be flared against. I use a 1/4 drive socket extension and a hammer, and I slowly tap the rounded socket end against the lip. I start on one side, then go across the circumference to the other side, and I alternate back and forth until I have worked my way around the sleeve and the edge is flaired against the hull. Usually because I used 5200, some will have squeezed out around the flair, which is fine.

I also brace the other end of the sleeve against the hull either with help or with a piece of wood or something. This way when I roll the edge on the other end it will be pulled even tighter. Once the 5200 cures it will never move again or leak.

The tool is the obvious better choice, but is impracticle unless you just like to buy tools or will be replacing a lot of drain plug sleeves. Good luck....
 

MercMark

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 20, 2003
Messages
149
Re: How do you flare a brass, through hull, bilge fitting?

Thanks Jason J, but I'm still not sure exactly what you're doing with the socket extension.

Are you using an extension, or are you using a 3/8" to 1/4" adaptor?

Now that I see the flaring tool, I'm wondering if I can improvise something. I'm thinking that the best solution will be to "vise" something through the hole that will spread the brass.

If I have to hammer (read tap) it out, I'll use that torquing order type methos you mentioned jason.
 

JasonJ

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 20, 2001
Messages
4,163
Re: How do you flare a brass, through hull, bilge fitting?

I am just using the extension. I put the socket end on the area of the sleeve I want to tap, and I tap the ratchet end of the extension with a hammer with light taps. I work my way back and forth, all the way around until the lip is formed. It doesn't take much force, and it goes pretty quick. A ball peen hammer would work as well, I just do it the way I do it because I don't have a ball peen hammer. I use what I have.

As far as improvising something, I had that same thought until I decided to just try to tap the flange. Its a bit quicker than building a tool that may not give you a desired result. I went with what I figured would work, and it works.
 

andy6374

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Aug 4, 2005
Messages
1,617
Re: How do you flare a brass, through hull, bilge fitting?

JasonJ said:
The tool is the obvious better choice, but is impracticle unless you just like to buy tools or will be replacing a lot of drain plug sleeves. Good luck....

You got me...I'm a tool buyer 8)
 

JasonJ

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 20, 2001
Messages
4,163
Re: How do you flare a brass, through hull, bilge fitting?

Andy, I am guilty of the same crime. My toolboxes are littered with tools I have purchased and only used once. I am a firm believer in having tools. The only thing better than a tool is more tools. Some things I end up cheaping out on, and the drain sleeve flair-a-ma-jigger is one of them...
 

dsinger

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 6, 2004
Messages
424
Re: How do you flare a brass, through hull, bilge fitting?

All it takes to make that tool is two union brass fittings two washers and on bolt and proper size nut. Cost me about 6.50 because I had the bolt and washers. Got it at lowes.
 

dsinger

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 6, 2004
Messages
424
Re: How do you flare a brass, through hull, bilge fitting?

sorry compression fittings
 

sport15

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 1, 2006
Messages
95
Re: How do you flare a brass, through hull, bilge fitting?

Mark,

You may be able to borrow the tool from a local yard...
I had the three drian tubes of my Whailer replaced this spring by a local yard. They've done it a bunch and I figured for the $205 it cost me was worth it.. It would take me a while to get it right and I figured that I would do it at least 4 times. There is a differance between knowing and knowing how... At any rate they were really nice and made the offer to loan me the tool for a weekend to do it myself and said to use 3M4200 vice the 5200 because it was below the water line.

If you do the flare yourself, (not to get you nervious) you get one shot at it before the brass is work hardend and becomes brittle and will tear. If the lip is banged into a 90, the chances of it cracking really soon are good. Good luck and go slowly..
 

JasonJ

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 20, 2001
Messages
4,163
Re: How do you flare a brass, through hull, bilge fitting?

5200 is for below the waterline. The main difference between 4200 and 5200 is that 4200 isn't quite as "permanent". 5200 should be use for anything below waterline that you don't plan on removing any time soon. 4200 is fine, but the information given is not accurate.
 

studlymandingo

Commander
Joined
Mar 22, 2006
Messages
2,716
Re: How do you flare a brass, through hull, bilge fitting?

I have found the 4200 seems to adhere to metal better than the 5200.
 

andy6374

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Aug 4, 2005
Messages
1,617
Re: How do you flare a brass, through hull, bilge fitting?

I don't even use 5200 anymore. Just a headache down the road for you or the next guy who owns the boat
 

MercMark

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 20, 2003
Messages
149
Re: How do you flare a brass, through hull, bilge fitting?

I did it this weekend. The fitting was already seated in west system, so I've left it. I have confidence in the bond between the brass and epoxy since I realized after I had it flared, that I forgot to block the inside. I checked it to see if it pushed in any and it hadn't budged.

I cut it off about 3/8" outside the hull and started working slowly with a hammer and a 3/8" socket extension until is was significantly flared. Once it was flared a certain amount I just used the hammer to keep it going. I did however make sure that when I started flaring, I turned the lip over a bit, then tried to spread it back to where it meets the hull. So it should have been holdin itself in tight as a result of being spread. It finished rather nicely, though it has an old medieval armour kind of finish to it, where you can see the hammer tracks instead of being shiny.
 

hoytheld

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jul 24, 2006
Messages
81
Re: How do you flare a brass, through hull, bilge fitting?

man...$42.00 for that tool...if someone has one out there for me to copy...I can make those suckers all day for half the price!!....I got lathes...mills...all that stuff!!
 
Top