Famous Last Words... Here we go!

[showstoppr88]

Hi all,

I am new to boating and this forum. I am pretty handy am an avid DIYer around the house and with my cars, always wanted a boat never had much money for one though hmmm....

I bought a 1990 Raven Boatworks 21ft open bow I/O with a 5.7L Mercruiser engine with an alpha one outboard (is this a good setup??)

I know the floor is gone in the boat the port side (go me I didnt say passenger side) is SOFT while starboard appears at first glance to be solid. AKA I know I am ripping up this floor. I have watched frisco boaters videos and I feel confident enough to tackle the job knowing I will be back here asking a few hundred more questions as I go along.

My first question is prep for this job as far as materials go. I have this lovely holiday of Christmas coming up and I was thinking of asking for the materials I need to get started. I have no idea where to begin on what type of fiberglass to get, resin, epoxies etc for building the floor back up. If someone could help me get started with a shopping list (specifc) I would really appreciate it. I have Zero experience working with fiberglass so any supporting tools like mixing buckets, rollers I would need as part of this list.

I am excited to get this thing tackled and get this boat back up to being on the lake again. I have already tore out the old carpet and interior, next is to bring up the old deck which will be VERY easy the old owner "replaced" it before so its basically just laying on top of the rotted stringers. I know I need to check the transom too but will do that when the floor is out seems like that would be easier and make sense.

Look forward to hearing and getting some help from you all, thanks!!

-Dave

 

[Scott Danforth]

well....I would read the stickies at the top of the forum as a start. most of that information is in there, including Frisco's whole thread (link 14). unfortuneatly photobucket killed all the pics

you do realize that the floor is the last thing to rot. your stringers, transom, and bulkheads have long since rotted

before you even think of materials, you need to cut out all the rot, document where the old stringers, bulkheads, etc. were and prep the hull.

Start by building a cradle to support the hull. pull the drive and motor, remove the interior, then remove the cap.

from there you will cut out the floor, remove the fuel tank, remove the wet foam, cut out the stringers and bulkheads, etc

after 4 days of grinding, you will start the woodwork to make new stringers

then you buy your fiberglassing materials - poly resin and tabing and 1708 and CSM

 

[alldodge]

No matter what you paid for the boat, its probably going to cost at least $1000 just to redo the hull, maybe more. Agree, the whole boat will need to be gutted. Think about how to separate the top from the bottom to make it easier but it can be done without. There are some threads here but most used photbucket so the pics are no longer here

Go to USComposites to see what foam and resin cost to get an idea.

 

[showstoppr88]

Hey Scott yea I know I have alot of work prior to needing that material, just trying to get it before the xmas season.

 

[Scott Danforth]

you underestimate the amount of grinding you will be doing

 

[CrazyFinn]

Before you get the materials... do you have a grinder (or two), LOTS of grinding and cutting discs, a good shop vac, safety glasses, dust masks, sawzall, etc? On mine, I used cutting discs on the grinder to get through a lot of the fiberglass. I had one grinder with a cutting disc, another with a grinding/sanding disc, and the sawzall all ready to go, and the shop vac running with a big hose sucking up a lot of the dust as I was grinding.

Tools are always a good thing to ask for at Christmas (if you don't have them). And even if you do, getting more is always nice.

 

[showstoppr88]

You said pulling the cap I really don't see myself doing that at all is that really required to do the Transom and in the floor.

As far as tools I'm in good shape. But what do you guys use for grinding a fiberglass and grinding out the wood once you're done cutting with the Sawzall

 

[Brandon5778]

As far as tools I'm in good shape. But what do you guys use for grinding a fiberglass and grinding out the wood once you're done cutting with the Sawzall

This is where you pull out your tyvek suit, mask, and grinder and have at it. It is slow tedious work. Others can pitch in on what type of discs to use as I'm not sure. I also do believe in the end you will want to take the cap off. To my understanding it will make the whole process easier, as intimidating as it might sound to pull it and brace the hull it will be worth it in the long haul. Good luck.☺

 

[Dennischaves]

I cut all my stringers on with a 1/8" cutoff disk on my electric grinder as close as I could to the hull
Then grinded it down with a 24 grit grinding disc
As far as the cap goes I really think its gonna have to come off

 

[Scott Danforth]

You said pulling the cap I really don't see myself doing that at all is that really required to do the Transom and in the floor.

As far as tools I'm in good shape. But what do you guys use for grinding a fiberglass and grinding out the wood once you're done cutting with the Sawzall

Pulling the cap makes things a whole lot easier, especially to get to the transom and the area under the consoles and in the bow. before you cut stringers or pull the cap, you still need to make a cradle to support the hull. you will be essentially replacing your boats skeleton.

tyvek suit, niosh approved mask, goggles, tape the sleeves.... then burn thru 2 4.5" grinders and about 30-40 24 grit sanding discs. use a shop vac with a bag to collect as much of the dust as you can.

when you think you have ground enough, go back and grind some more

 

[JASinIL2006]

I used up two 4.5" grinders... the fiberglass dust really does them in. I bought cheapo, $20 grinders from a local farm implement store (e.g., probably Harbor Freight quality).

To cut out the deck, I found a circular saw, set just a bit less deep than the wood's thickness, worked best. I used the same method to heavily score (criss-cross pattern) the transom core, then popped it out, piece by piece. Anything left got the the grinder treatment.

Grinding was, by far, the least fun part of the project. Just make sure to have the personal protection equipment Scott mentioned. I found a Tyvek suit that was slightly large worked better for me; it tore less when I was getting weird positions with the grinder. I think I went through 3-4 suits.

 

[Scott Danforth]

my niosh face mask with replaceable particulate filters was about $75

a half dozen tyvek suits, 3 goggles, 6 boxes of nitrile gloves, 3 rolls of frog tape, 2 3-packs of shop vac bags and your total PPE bill is about $200. (still cheaper than a hospital visit)

the stickies have a whole link on proper PPE

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...r/295740-how-to-s-and-other-great-information

 

[showstoppr88]

PPE I am good, goggles the boxes of gloves respirator and tyvek suit!

 

[JASinIL2006]

Don?t forget tape!

 

[chevymaher]

I likes swim goggles doing mine. Less fogging and no dust gets in your eyes. The other goggles dust gets in and they are big bumping things knocking them off your face.

 

[alldodge]

I use hooded Tyvek suits, full face mask and head socks