1989 SeaRay 160 BowRider 100hp OB Merc. Overhaul Project?

Nick0294

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Aug 31, 2017
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We came into this boat at a fair price about a year and a half ago with a rebuilt Outboard, trim motor and pump. When we purchased it, it had two soft spots on the deck and these superficial cracks in the gel coat around where the motor mounts to the transom. I took pictures of them the day we brought it home(ill add some tonight), they haven't grown any larger, and we've used it ALOT. When I get home ill post some more pictures of the boat, and other points of interest. My question is really when do you know your ready for a deck/transom overhaul? I watched "friskoboaters" yourtube videos of his overhauls and it well within my skill, it will just require time and money I understand. Thanks
 

Nick0294

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Aug 31, 2017
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Do replace the transom on these outboard boats you must remove the cap correct? Ive read there is a danger of the boat haul widening when you do that, what are the options to remedy?
 

Nick0294

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Aug 31, 2017
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Could you replace the deck first then remove the cap for the transom? Would the new deck hold the hull in place?
 

Nick0294

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Aug 31, 2017
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No bow in the transom and the engine doesn't move the transom if you pull it up and down. FYI
 
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Woodonglass

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Dec 29, 2009
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Keeping the hull "In Shape" is not that difficult. Take plenty of measurements prior to tearing anything out. Use nylon straps to hold her in shape
 

Nick0294

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Aug 31, 2017
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I considered simply wrapping a strap around the hull and securing it in place just to be safe. But I'm more concerned with whether I need to do that at all, are stress cracks in the gel coat around the transom signs of rot?
 

Nick0294

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Aug 31, 2017
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I should say the transom is definitely wet/waterlogged. When I torqued on the engine mount bolts from the inside of the hull, brown water seeped from them
 

Nick0294

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Aug 31, 2017
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IMG_2995.JPG IMG_2997.JPG IMG_2996.JPG I was wonder if this piece of angle aluminum is factory? and if not, why would it be there? it wraps around the top outside edge of the transom. Thanks
 

Nick0294

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Aug 31, 2017
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No Title

Just wanted to post some pics of the boat to get a BUMP in and maybe get some insight on some of my questions.
 

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rotorhead22

Seaman
Joined
May 19, 2015
Messages
74
I will reply to your email request here. I took a oscillating multi-tool and cut off the top of the transom and found black mush and rotted plywood. Save the piece you cut off. I got a long drill bit and drilled out a bunch and got impatient and cut the inside forward of the transom out which later caused me way more work to replace, don't it it unless you have too. I got quotes for plywood and marine board etc etc and decided to go with a local company here in the Tampa area called Arjay http://www.arjaytech.com/. It looks like JB weld when dry. It's solid as a rock in there now. Out of a 5 gal bucket I probably used on about 3.5 gal and used the rest to fill a crack in my house foundation. I used construction adhesive and strips of plywood to get the correct height for the top of the transom, let it dry and then used peanut butter to fill the gaps. Then the fun starts with sanding out the lumps and filling again and sanding to smooth out for gel coat. If you have that aluminum drain tube in the transom rip that thing out because I highly suspect that was the water entry point into the transom. I replaced the tube with a 1/2" PVC pipe. I would also check the rear section of the gas tank coffin for rot. The gas tank coffin is open on the top around the filler hose and shutoff valve which allows water to sit around the gas tank. [h=2][/h]
 

Nick0294

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Aug 31, 2017
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Right on rotorhead22 thanks a lot for the response!! So best bet is to just cut the top of the transom open, and take your time removing all the old rot then use the glass that's already there for the old transom as a mold essentially for something like "seacast"?
 

Nick0294

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Aug 31, 2017
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I have pretty bad rot in and around the ski locker as well as around the gas tank. I imagine the entire deck needs to be replaced.
 

Nick0294

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Aug 31, 2017
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I will be doing a complete deck/stringer/transom overhaul on this over the winter. Should i cut the top of the transom and remove the wood from the top leaving the inside and outside skins intact for use as a mold for a composite transom? or should i remove the inside skin? As far as i can tell the stringer do not run into the transom so i don't think its completely necessary to rip the rear glass skins off, unless you all have second opposing opinions, ill defer to the expertise of the forum. Thanks
 

vietcu

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Aug 5, 2017
Messages
37
Not hijacking your thread, but your boat looks similiar to my Sunbird. Of which I am doing right now. I cut the back portion of the engine inside the boat so I can get to the transom. You might want to take a look. 194 spl Sunbird rebuild
 

rotorhead22

Seaman
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May 19, 2015
Messages
74
Right on rotorhead22 thanks a lot for the response!! So best bet is to just cut the top of the transom open, and take your time removing all the old rot then use the glass that's already there for the old transom as a mold essentially for something like "seacast"?

Yes, use the interior for a mold. My transom was so far gone it was a miracle the engine didnt fall off
 

Nick0294

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Aug 31, 2017
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Yes, use the interior for a mold. My transom was so far gone it was a miracle the engine didnt fall off

​Did your transom show signs of rot? i.e. cracks in the gel coat like mine? or did it look fine until you ripped it open?
 
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