Advice needed

[Bigtrout29]

Ok guys I need some advice I had to cut my new transom in 2 to get it in the boat as I am not doing a top off reconstruction is this ok it is holding an mc1 and a merc 165 i/o. I cut the wood to line up right in the center of the key hole..
Thanks guys for the advice

 

[Scott Danforth]

No.

by cutting in the middle you have taken all the strength out. you may be able to cut one of the layers into 3 pieces and one of the layers in the middle and assemble in place staggering the joints

think of it this way. if you take a 2x4 and you brace it across two cement blocks and stand in the middle, can you cut it in half and still have it hold you up?

 

[Bigtrout29]

Ok do u have any suggestions on getting it in in one peice don't know if I can get the top off as I am only replacing the transom the rest of the boat is solid

 

[Bigtrout29]

I also have another peice to glue over to of the cut peice

 

[Scott Danforth]

Ok do u have any suggestions on getting it in in one peice don't know if I can get the top off as I am only replacing the transom the rest of the boat is solid

I doubt that the stringers are solid. you should do some test drills. usually the stringers rot first, then the transom rots, and last the floor rots.

drill into the stringers about 3/4" deep with a 1/4" drill bit about 1' above the hull, and about 6" back from the first bulkhead in front of the motor. drill about 3 test drills on both the port and starboard side. if the shavings come out light colored and dry, then fill the holes with epoxy putty and continue. however most likely the shavings will come out dark colored and wet indicating the stringers need replacing as well.

you cant add another layer. 1.5" of wood is your target. no more, no less total transom thickness of 2.00 - 2.125

 

[Bigtrout29]

I haven't glued them together yet still in the cutting process just got the first peice cut and in place haven't even laminated....i all ready did the drill test all is good and dry and wood looking

 

[Bigtrout29]

The transom rotted because the seal on the gimble failed rotted out the bolt holes is from what I was told by a marine mechanic

 

[Scott Danforth]

The transom rotted because the seal on the gimble failed rotted out the bolt holes is from what I was told by a marine mechanic

do the test drills

usually the rotten transom allows the transom to crush and that is when the seal starts to leak. however long before the transom rots the stringers have long since rotted.

 

[Bigtrout29]

Ok I will drill some more this thing is gonna kill.me I just need it for a week then it can be tore down completly

 

[Scott Danforth]

rent a boat for that week.

 

[tpenfield]

I would have done the wood core in 3 sections if fitting it in was an issue. Middle section . . . as big as you could fit in to cover the transom key hole area and then some, then 2 outer sections on each side to complete the width of the transom.

But that's just me . . .

 

[Woodonglass]

Got any pics??

 

[mickyryan]

scott has the right idea rent one and fix it right or you will regret it later

 

[Bigtrout29]

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[Bigtrout29]

That's the transom area sand down way more now and that's all that was covering it and pbed to the outside

 

[Bigtrout29]

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[Bigtrout29]

Around that area the cap edge is about 6 inchs from the hull walls and thats were I am having the problem cant get it past the cap on one peice

 

[Bigtrout29]

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[Slager]

I'll follow along. Looks like you were given some great advice already and are off to a good start. My transom had a pretty thin skin on the inside too, 1/16" of csm.

 

[Bigtrout29]

Hey Tpenfield wondering if u could elaborate alittle more on the 3 piece I would prefer not to lift the cap if i can get away with it thanks