"It Happened!" Transom has to be replaced! (NOW W/PICS)

LX Kid

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Or you can try sherman williams, they sell insulex i believe, and may be able to tint it for u using their color cards to get a close match.

Thanks. "Probably" will just live with the color knowing that I'm going to paint the whole boat in the near future. I will probably go with Interlux Marine paint when I do. As long as I'm inside the boat fishing I won't have to look at the outside of the transom anyway! LoL
 

LX Kid

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Went out to check on the paint hardness this morning and think it will take a couple three days to harden up enough to wet sand. The weather is a little cool and paint will take some time to cure. Guess it's time to jump up and fall down into the engine compartment and take care that mess.

Here is a list of other things still needing attention :
1. Replace engine mounts on engine
2. Remove gimbal bearing and install new housing shaft seal
3. Replace shaft seal on outdrive and pressure test
4. Check and replace electrical lugs/connectors in engine compartment
5. Install gimbal assembly back on transom
6. Re-install engine
7. Re-install outdrive
8. Go fishing
 

LX Kid

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Why is the engine compartment lid so high and volumness? Does it really need all that space for the engine to "breath"? I was thinking, yes I know that's dangerous, about making a lower profile engine compartment cover that would allow tackle boxes and cooler stowage on top. Maybe half the height of the OEM one. Tired of stumbling on tackle boxes, pails etc. left laying around the deck. What ya think?

th-2.jpeg
 

kcassells

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If it's heat or air circ that's needed you could easily install vents/grills.
 

LX Kid

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If it's heat or air circ that's needed you could easily install vents/grills.

In my drawing, behind rod holders, is a penciled in vent. The shelf is a "drop leaf" type that could be folded down when not needed.

UPDATE: If I made the engine cover lower it would be no different than leaving it alone. After rethinking the idea it would be better to just add a railing around the edges to keep things from sliding / rolling off.
 
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kcassells

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In my drawing, behind rod holders, is a penciled in vent. The shelf is a "drop leaf" type that could be folded down when not needed.
LOL....yea yea...Ithats what I thought it was. yea...See thats what I said see.
 

Stumpalump

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I was thinking, yes I know that's dangerous, about making a lower profile engine compartment cover that would allow tackle boxes and cooler stowage on top. Maybe half the height of the OEM one. What ya think?

Sounds good but....Stay focused. Ya gotta get the transom, engine and drive sorted out first. Maybe then you can just cut a foot off the bottom of the cover you have. How is the drive coming along? Is the engine all cleaned up and prepped for install? So far it looks great!
 

LX Kid

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Sounds good but....Stay focused. Ya gotta get the transom, engine and drive sorted out first. Maybe then you can just cut a foot off the bottom of the cover you have. How is the drive coming along? Is the engine all cleaned up and prepped for install? So far it looks great!

Engine is ready. Want to finish transom before moving on to the gimbal. Feel like I'm being pulled too many directions instead of finishing painting of transom. (Took the day off today and just loafed around.) I really don't want to cut down the original cover in case things don't work out so good. Easy enough to make wood box and cover with fiberglass. Really wouldn't even have to fiberglass it.
 

LX Kid

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Thought about the transom painting last night and have come to the conclusion of just putting the second coat on. Being I already know the whole hull will be painted, I'll worry about brush marks sanding when I do the hull painting in the Spring time. I want to move on with the mechanicals and get this boat back in the water. Little chilly this morning so I'll do the painting this afternoon.

If I apply myself I "might" be able to finish her up in a couple of weeks. That said I have never met any of my estimations of work completion. LoL After all when I started this project I "thought" it would only take 7-10 days! Ha Ha Ha and I don't even smoke or drink!
 
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kcassells

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After all when I started this project I "thought" it would only take 7-10 days! Ha Ha Ha and I don't even smoke or drink!

Well maybe you should start.
 

LX Kid

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I painted the second coat this morning and it looks really good! I was a little surprised that the brush marks of the second coat are barely visible and the shine is nice also.
 

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LX Kid

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If you know for sure that the stringers and floor are still in good shape, and will be far into the future, then doing it from outside is easier, it's just the cosmetics on the outside that can make it a little more of a hassle.

When my son and I had the tanks out, for repair and pressure testing, he reminded me that he replaced the stringers at that time. This was probably about 8 years ago.

If Photobucket hadn't stolen my pictures I could have shown a picture of that work.
 

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LX Kid

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Silly question but I'll ask anyway. When installing the new scuppers, they didn't come with a rubber seal that goes between the scupper and transom. Which is better a rubber seal and sealer or just seal up the new scupper with 4200? I'm sure either way would work but "which" would be less prone to leak? The old ones I removed had a rubber seal and were "screwed" and sealed into the transom. These new SeaDog scuppers have no holes tor screwing them into the transom.

Scupper.jpg
 
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kcon

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Even if they came with a rubber seal I'd personally still use 5200 (or maybe 4200) - especially if screws are involved.
 

LX Kid

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Even if they came with a rubber seal I'd personally still use 5200 (or maybe 4200) - especially if screws are involved.

Yes 4200 would be the way to go so it could be removed if necessary. Question is with or without seal using 4200 either way?
 

kcon

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Yes 4200 would be the way to go so it could be removed if necessary. Question is with or without seal using 4200 either way?


I'd use the seal if it comes with it, put a bit of 4200 between them, then create a bead of the 4200 between the edge of it and the hull, if the one you use has screws i'd pre-drill and pump 4200 into the screw holes before screwing. By that logic I'd imagine water won't be getting in!
 

LX Kid

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Interesting day. Started sorting things out in the engine compartment and found a small problem. The two who removed the gimbal mounting plate didn't realize the bottom had broken off and didn't know that it wasn't supposed to be like that. Next week I'll take it to the welding shop and have it repaired. I did manage to get the two scuppers installed. My phone camera is starting to have issues. Been acting up for awhile now and may have to get new phone after Thanksgiving for new pics.

20171122_101647_resized_1.jpg
 
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