16 ft Aluminum StarCraft SS Rebuild?

[jbcurt00]

GM, aluminum boat....

 

[gm280]

GM, aluminum boat....

I owned aluminum boats that I installed wood floors. However, at those times, I knew nothing about sealing the wood to keep it from rotting. But I see aluminum boats all the time with wood floors. :noidea:

 

[jbcurt00]

I meant polyester resin isnt the best choice in a tin boat

 

[gm280]

I meant polyester resin isnt the best choice in a tin boat

Oh, sorry, I am so use to talking polyester, because that is what I use on my fiberglass boat, I did think. Epoxy will work. :facepalm:

 

[Watermann]

So will spar urethane, lots of us use it to seal the wood in our tin boats. Clear gloss oil based.

 

[E260]

So will spar urethane, lots of us use it to seal the wood in our tin boats. Clear gloss oil based.

I think I will go with the wood and spar urethane .
So now want a textured floor any ideas ?
I know it will be a while before I get to that point in the build but I can get everything and be ready.
Thank you
Bryon

 

[Watermann]

For non skid I used the Epifanies poly beads mixed in tractor / industrial paint with catalyst hardener for a super durable surface. The pics are linked to the sites.

 

[SHSU]

For non skid I used the Epifanies poly beads mixed in tractor / industrial paint with catalyst hardener for a super durable surface. The pics are linked to the sites.

WM,
You able to use that over Spar Varnish? I would think you would have an adhesion problem and overtime failure.

 

[Watermann]

I've applied it on my SS aluminum top surfaces (gunnels, bow deck and SW wings) but there's a lot more that goes into it than just slapping on paint Lots of guys want to just paint non skid on sealed (epoxy & spar) decking and they have but paint on any hard surface can be damaged pretty easily since there's no give but adhesion shouldn't be one of the issues with that. I have one piece of spar sealed plywood that has the non skid on it, the bow cover arch and the paint with poly beads was used because the wood was not smooth so the non skid made it look better to my eye. There's way more surface area for adhesion on wood with spar than there is with 100 solid smooth aluminum.

oldhaven talks in his Chief thread about his using it on his decks (over epoxy) and in another's thread below and says it held up well to foot traffic through his build but I don't know if his pics are PB wiped out or not. Maybe he'll stop in and let us know how things are holding up. http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...9#post10232249

 

[SHSU]

I've applied it on my SS aluminum top surfaces (gunnels, bow deck and SW wings) but there's a lot more that goes into it than just slapping on paint Lots of guys want to just paint non skid on sealed (epoxy & spar) decking and they have but paint on any hard surface can be damaged pretty easily since there's no give but adhesion shouldn't be one of the issues with that. I have one piece of spar sealed plywood that has the non skid on it, the bow cover arch and the paint with poly beads was used because the wood was not smooth so the non skid made it look better to my eye. There's way more surface area for adhesion on wood with spar than there is with 100 solid smooth aluminum.

oldhaven talks in his Chief thread about his using it on his decks (over epoxy) and in another's thread below and says it held up well to foot traffic through his build but I don't know if his pics are PB wiped out or not. Maybe he'll stop in and let us know how things are holding up. http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...9#post10232249

Agree, prep is always key. Ran by StarTed's thread and looks like he got wiped out as well from PB. Will go by from time to time to see if any pictures are put back but oldhaven's post was very informative.

 

[oldhaven]

The Epifanes non skid is holding up very well, though I recoated it this spring when I had my decks out to replace the fuel tank. I had gotten some overspray of the red on it accidentally so I mixed up another coat of Wimbledon White and more beads, cleaned up the top coat, rolled it on and it applied very well. I am using a carpet over it now so I don't expect it to wear much, but I wanted it to be there in case I remove the carpet for any reason. I was going to install snaps in the carpet, but the non skid seems to keep it from moving around.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owne...boats/10030868-another-maine-starchief/page19

 

[SHSU]

The Epifanes non skid is holding up very well, though I recoated it this spring when I had my decks out to replace the fuel tank. I had gotten some overspray of the red on it accidentally so I mixed up another coat of Wimbledon White and more beads, cleaned up the top coat, rolled it on and it applied very well. I am using a carpet over it now so I don't expect it to wear much, but I wanted it to be there in case I remove the carpet for any reason. I was going to install snaps in the carpet, but the non skid seems to keep it from moving around.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...archief/page19

Nice work!!

So are you able to easily pull out the carpet for washing? At the Houston Boat Show that have carpet installed with snaps for easier cleaning and if I am fishing I could pull them ahead of time and not have the slime all over them. Thinking of trying to do something similar for my deck.

 

[Watermann]

Fellas we might want to wait and have the OP, E260 come around and give the alright for all of our chatter in his thread about deck covering.

 

[E260]

Hey guys its fine to talk about anything I just keep getting more ideas . I will try to get some more pics up this weekend . been working on the gunnels filling holes and straightening them . also taking dents out .
The flooring and wood has been a big concern for me, so keep putting up ideas I'm looking at all the possibilities .
Thank you
Bryon

 

[E260]

No Title

Well I finished putting the left rail back together after straightening and filling 43 holes .
The right side won't be as bad . its finnaly looking like I'm making some progress .
Bryon

 

[Watermann]

Wow only 43 holes, I think my Chief's PO owned more than one drill, 70+ holes on each side to repair. Why on gods green earth would someone need to drill so many holes is all I kept thinking as I patched them.

Keep knocking out those jobs and before you know it she'll be ready for some paint.

 

[SHSU]

Well I finished putting the left rail back together after straightening and filling 43 holes .
The right side won't be as bad . its finnaly looking like I'm making some progress .
Bryon

How did you straighten and fill your holes? I have a bunch and haven't started yet, still riveting.....

 

[E260]

How did you straighten and fill your holes? I have a bunch and haven't started yet, still riveting.....

Hi.
I straightend mostly with a block of steel and wood with a hammer , getting close as I could so I dont need a lot of filler.
The holes , I made aluminum slugs and used JB marine weld epoxy . used enough so when you press it into place the KB weld will fill the hole.
Then I sand it down when dry. Reach to spot putty and prime.
All these holes.are above.the water line .
There are a lot of ways to do it , I think this will work well for me in this situation.
Hope this helps .
Bryon

 

[SHSU]

Hi.
I straightend mostly with a block of steel and wood with a hammer , getting close as I could so I dont need a lot of filler.
The holes , I made aluminum slugs and used JB marine weld epoxy . used enough so when you press it into place the KB weld will fill the hole.
Then I sand it down when dry. Reach to spot putty and prime.
All these holes.are above.the water line .
There are a lot of ways to do it , I think this will work well for me in this situation.
Hope this helps .
Bryon

Thanks, I was thinking of something similar

Aluminum plate under holes with JB marine weld epoxy to fill hole/hold plate. How did you make your aluminum slugs? Seems like a lot of grinding to get a small slug for a screw hole

 

[Watermann]

I found the easiest way to plug holes is to use JB Water Weld 2 part stick epoxy. Prep the holes by cleaning them, scruff up the back side of the aluminum and wipe clean with a solvent. Then make a wad of the JBWW about the size of a nickle. Pinch off some JB from the wad roll into a ball and press it into the hole from the back creating a mushroom on the underside and forcing the JB up into the hole. Use your free hand to press on the topside to completely fill the hole and leave it a bit of a dome to sand smooth later. No need for a backer slug and it makes a tough hole repair that's easy to sand smooth.