Aluminum boat just bought -- have done my research

bassman3

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Jun 26, 2017
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Hi Guys! This is my first post, but feel like iv been a member for a while lol iv done a tone of online research and have read so many great threads here!

Ill cut to the chase. Just bought a 12 foot aluminum boat. 2 questions:

I want to redo the paint on the outside of the boat, but the paint really isnt that bad, just some areas here and there. Iv done my research and have found you can do a couple methods that both work:

Sanding and wash, Alumnaprep, alodine, zinc chromate and then top coat.

OR

Wash, alumnabright or 50/50 vinager and water, self etch primer, metal primer, sand, epoxy paint, top coats

My question is: is there a way to keep the paint on the boat and re-paint it WITHOUT taking it to bare metal on the hull? The paint isnt that bad as you can see in pictures.. Im painting it same color teal..


Also, i am going to bedline the inside of the boat with a light gray spray liner. Can i do the same prep work that i did on the hull and use bedliner for inside of boat with good results? Meaning bedliner will stick well etc?


Sorry for the long post, first time post and have made a list of questions to ask you guys over the last month researching :)

BM3
 

bassman3

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Here are a couple small pictures. You can click on them. wasnt sure how to embed. Thanks for the help and looking forward to learning alot from you all!
 

poconojoe

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You tell him don't use bedliner, but give no reason. Just wondering.....why not?
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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dont use the spray can bedliner. that is nothing more than paint and tar and it will come off everywhere in the sun.

nothing wrong with bedliner, if you go with the real poly-urea stuff like line-x or rhino linning

if your paint is good and no bare metal showing, simply scuff it with a 3M pad and paint. if you have bare metal showing, sand that, use self-etching primer to spot-prime the areas, then paint.
 

bassman3

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dont use the spray can bedliner. that is nothing more than paint and tar and it will come off everywhere in the sun.

nothing wrong with bedliner, if you go with the real poly-urea stuff like line-x or rhino linning

if your paint is good and no bare metal showing, simply scuff it with a 3M pad and paint. if you have bare metal showing, sand that, use self-etching primer to spot-prime the areas, then paint.

I was going to use monstaliner, and spray it with my spray gun since i have experience using that stuff. I am open to other non slip coatings for the inside of boat though... Something that looks nice. I was thinking of using this stuff too since it has good reviews

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D...skid+paint&dpPl=1&dpID=51OiR1Unh7L&ref=plSrch

And you guys sure i can just lightly scuff the outside teal paint and paint over it without any epoxy primer or anything? If i want to use gluevit on the outside rivets, can i put that on over the teal paint, scuff and put new coat of paint on?
 

Watermann

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:welcome: aboard bassman3,

Hey we can all be long winded, here ya go!

I'm not a fan of scuffing up 40 year old chalky paint and putting new over it, it'll fall off or look bad trust me. I've stripped the paint off to bare on 3 boats for a total of 52 feet of aluminum boat so stripping a 12'r wouldn't even be a job. Trying to sand around rivets and seams, then trying to squirt some primer on bare spots is ridiculous.

Here's my method:
Strip the boat, leak test it, make any repairs needed and gluvit epoxy only goes on the inside and it has to be covered since it has no UV protection on it's own.

Lightly sand the entire surface of the bare AL with 220g and a palm sander to break the surface tension. Spray the surface with cleaning vinegar and scrub it clean. Rinse well and once dry I wipe the surface with a solvent like acetone to make sure there's nothing to effect the primers adhesion.

Shoot entire hull with SE primer, hour later shoot with regular primer, hour later shoot first coat of paint and the second top coat an hour after that. It makes for a long sticky day but there is no sanding or wiping with tack cloths it's all chemically bonded into one since none of the coats cured. I use alkyd oil base tractor/industrial paint with catalyst hardener added and the primer is the same brand/formula as is the SE primer.

Oh and you'll need to basically do the same on the inside if you're wanting to put truck bed liner in there, it won't adhere to bare AL. I would paint all the surfaces inside rather than use bed liner and then tape off and scuff the surfaces that are to be walked on and roll on the same paint with non skid added to the paint and the hardener as well. I use the Epifanes Polypropylene Beads.
 

bassman3

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And also, if i am keeping the teal paint on. Sand with scotchbrite, should i use any of the alodine, zinc chromate and primers? Just want to make sure the new top coat sticks but dont want the alodone or zinc chromate (or self etch rustoleum spray) damage the old paint..
 

bassman3

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:welcome: aboard bassman3,

Hey we can all be long winded, here ya go!

I'm not a fan of scuffing up 40 year old chalky paint and putting new over it, it'll fall off or look bad trust me. I've stripped the paint off to bare on 3 boats for a total of 52 feet of aluminum boat so stripping a 12'r wouldn't even be a job. Trying to sand around rivets and seams, then trying to squirt some primer on bare spots is ridiculous.

Here's my method:
Strip the boat, leak test it, make any repairs needed and gluvit epoxy only goes on the inside and it has to be covered since it has no UV protection on it's own.

Lightly sand the entire surface of the bare AL with 220g and a palm sander to break the surface tension. Spray the surface with cleaning vinegar and scrub it clean. Rinse well and once dry I wipe the surface with a solvent like acetone to make sure there's nothing to effect the primers adhesion.

Shoot entire hull with SE primer, hour later shoot with regular primer, hour later shoot first coat of paint and the second top coat an hour after that. It makes for a long sticky day but there is no sanding or wiping with tack cloths it's all chemically bonded into one since none of the coats cured. I use alkyd oil base tractor/industrial paint with catalyst hardener added and the primer is the same brand/formula as is the SE primer.

Oh and you'll need to basically do the same on the inside if you're wanting to put truck bed liner in there, it won't adhere to bare AL. I would paint all the surfaces inside rather than use bed liner and then tape off and scuff the surfaces that are to be walked on and roll on the same paint with non skid added to the paint and the hardener as well. I use the Epifanes Polypropylene Beads.

Thanks for the details. Couple quick questions to that.

What stripper do you recommend? Iv never stripped paint off

In your steps of SE, basic metal primer, paint top coats -- you are not sanding down the SE or metal primer to make it smooth?

And you said gluevit only goes on the inside of boat.. Is this right? Iv seen it mainly used on the outside of the hull, then sanded, then the SE, metal primer etc...


Thanks for the quick responses all!
 

Watermann

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Jasco all the way.

9977819f-26c4-4708-8d7f-f5fa152806f9_1.beaaf11f85547d4a301a3bc97f3b15ab.jpeg



That's my method of painting just as I stated, no sanding, I hate sanding. My boats are no show pieces or trailer queens brought out for parades, they're used and the paint jobs are well enough done not too mention tough as nails. I pay 28 bucks for a gallon of the tractor paint and 3 bucks an ounce for the hardener. :lol:

http://www.vansicklepaint.com/tractor/tractorenamel.html

tractorenamel.jpg
 

bassman3

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Jasco all the way.

9977819f-26c4-4708-8d7f-f5fa152806f9_1.beaaf11f85547d4a301a3bc97f3b15ab.jpeg



That's my method of painting just as I stated, no sanding, I hate sanding. My boats are no show pieces or trailer queens brought out for parades, they're used and the paint jobs are well enough done not too mention tough as nails. I pay 28 bucks for a gallon of the tractor paint and 3 bucks an ounce for the hardener. :lol:

http://www.vansicklepaint.com/tractor/tractorenamel.html

tractorenamel.jpg

Thanks so much for all the info! Lastly, I need a good solid non slip coating that will look nice to go on the inside and provide a little traction. Does anyone have experience with that stuff on amazon i linked?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D...skid+paint&dpPl=1&dpID=51OiR1Unh7L&ref=plSrch

I am really open to anything. I do have a compressor and spray gun. I have experience painting alot of wood, not so much with AL
 

bassman3

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I'm also thinking I should spray on whatever non-skid paint I end up using. Because of all the rivets and curves on the inside of my aluminum boat, it seems like it would be difficult to roll on. what do you guys think?


Dustin
 

Watermann

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I don't know about that deck paint and the brand which is a direct competitor of our forum host so you link may disappear.

I use the same paint as above with hardener added and for non skid use Epifanes poly beads which soak up the color so everything matches. I painted everything normally then once cured scratched the heck out of every flat surface with a 3M pad, tack cloth the dust off and rolled on the concoction, 2 light coats. I don't know how you would be able to spray non skid it's way too thick. It's seriously tough and looks great.

IMAG2392.jpg
 

bassman3

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That does looks awesome! How does it roll? It just seems like getting around the rivets and curves would be tough with a roller..
 

Watermann

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With the beads and no reducer it's thick stuff, doing 2 light coats too and not glopping it on helps. You'd get the hang of it pretty quick. I used a small 4" roller and only did flat areas so it was easy on my SS.
 
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