First time rebuild

[Firecaptain]

Hello all this is the first for me, for the post and rebuilding my boat. I just got a 1989 Commander river jet. Cheap cheap is just a reminder that boat are not lol. I am rebuilding the boat from the hull up, new stringers, transom, deck and rebuilding the engine and jet as well. So I am gonna have perty much a new to me boat in the somewhat dist future. My first of many questions is the hull was shot with a chopper gun and to re glass the stringers I plan on using 1708 with epoxy resin, is this the standard for this application, 2nd after the new 3/4 marine grade ply is epoxy and layed in for the new deck can I switch over to poly resin or should I stick with the original epoxy??? I am doing the rebuilding on a budget and want to save when I can. Thanks

 

[jbcurt00]

Polyester resin could be used, but epoxy will do it too.

Read the info from this link
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...lamingo-splashed-w-pics?p=5550980#post5550980

 

[Scott Danforth]

you do know that chopper gun layout is not that strong

here is the DIY thread with links. Frisco's thread (link 14) has videos, etc. http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...r/295740-how-to-s-and-other-great-information

no need for marine ply or 3/4" (other than the transom)

1/2" for the deck is more than sufficient

 

[Firecaptain]

Thank you, I want to get coat after the deck is in with a non skid finish. They say gel coat won't stick to epoxy but I watched test on the net where it did work. Just want to get more information on the subject. I haven't bought anything yet, so a recommendation for a good paint for the inside would work too if the gel coat is not recommend. This is a fishing boat and I like hosing it out a the end of the day.

 

[Firecaptain]

Thanks, I have watched the whole series of fisco boater. I am gonna use the 3/4 for the deck as well just not the marine grade. I want to get as strong a floor as possible.

 

[Firecaptain]

here is a few pictures of the old girl

 

[Scott Danforth]

its your money. epoxy will be twice as expensive for materials compared to poly plus gel doesnt stick to epoxy, no mater what you read on the internet. trust me im a french model

also, no need for the extra weight of the 3/4" my floor is 1/2" balsa with a thin layer of fiberglass on each side and you can dance on it. i wouldnt use anything thicker than 15/32" araucoply

you may want to look at the photo upload tutorial in the general rules and guidelines forum

 

[Firecaptain]

Copy thanks

 

[SHSU]

trust me im a french model

 

[kcassells]

My build is with EEEEEEEEEEEEEEpppppppppppooooooooooxxxxxy and I really enjoy working with it. The price is way higher but that's just me.
Welcome aboard.
Note; Epoxy with 1700 biax no 08. 08 is not required and will simply suck up more resin.
Once you decide on your weapon of choice, be it EEEpppoooxxxy, poly, vinylester/polyester, poly, you STICK with the same 1 thru-out the build. Poly wants a cracker won't bond with eeppooxxy. Also you cannot gelcoat epoxy. {You can but its a pia**
Get some pics up and take alot of pics. Job durations can vary so having the pics and lots to refer back to help alot.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Bonjour

 

[kcassells]

Bonjour

Parlez vous francais?

 

[tpenfield]

Qu'est-ce que c'est? :noidea:

Sine the boat is of the chopper gun variety, you may want to add a layer of woven roving or 1708 to the hull before putting back the stringers and bulkhead in order to beef it up. If you start with epoxy, you are destined to continue throughout the rebuild. Sure, the resin will cost more, but I don't think the extra cost will be a deal breaker.

The key attributes of epoxy are adhesion and water resistance.

I'm not a big fan of regular poly resin for rebuild, because the 'working' time on the resin is pretty short, then it starts to gel & set on you. So, you have to plan out your work really well. Poly is good for rigidity and strength.

Vinyl ester resins have a longer working time, similar to epoxy, but also have the strength characteristics of poly. Fumes are the worst with VE resins and it does not taste very good at all.

 

[Firecaptain]

So I am leaning towards the epoxy. My only concern is gel coat for the in side and fuel tank and engine area. What is a good paint to substitute for the gel coat. Don't plan on having any leaks but we all know that Murphy's law always wins. And yes I plan on laying up at least one layer of cloth possibly over a layer of CSM, sides are a little thin to my liking.

 

[tpenfield]

I use the floor and porch type of polyurethane paint for bilge areas, etc.

Probably could find an epoxy based gelcoat for the more finished areas

 

[Firecaptain]

So here is my thoughts, after sanding and cleaning up the hull layer of 1708 in the bottom up to or just above the original floor,after the new deck is tabbed in laying down a woven or two over the sides tying in with the floor.

 

[kcassells]

Check out WOG's {wood on glass} topics. Tractor paint w/hardner.

 

[Firecaptain]

Kcassells, thanks for that info. I am gonna use that paint on the hull in side and out except for the floor. My thoughts are to use bilge kote and add some non skid additives on the final coat I want to have some covering on the floor that won't so much nasty crap like blood and bait. You just saved me a grip load of money that I can put to better use on the rebuild. I cannot thank you enough.

 

[kcassells]

hey Capt. time to get some pics up. Helps us to see what you're referencing,
​Thank the wog for all his info, he is da man!

 

[Firecaptain]

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