1985 Starcraft SS 160 with 75HP Mercury Outboard restoration and upgrades

EchoNovember

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My fianc?e and I recently bought a 1985 Starcraft SS 160 with a 75HP Mercury outboard. We later discovered, to our chagrin, that the deck was a little weak and the ski locker is wet and rotting, the seat backs are loose, and one of the screws holding the controls up keeps pulling out. So now we're planning to replace the transom this summer, and use the insulated garage to do a restoration and some upgrades this winter. Our dream is to make it switchable between pleasure boat and fishing boat.

Ideas:

For watersports: Reinforced transom for skiing, tubing, and space for a kicker motor that's removable when doing water sports, two fold out seats that can turn into loungers. Might leave the kicker on permanently just in case of emergency.

For fishing: the fold flats come out and on one sides have seats with a live well underneath with the driver's seat forward and a higher fishing seat aft (currently on the boat), the other side would have a fishing seat post mount under the fold flat in the mounting box for a single fishing seat, and a tall fishing seat up in the bow, plus a 8 HP kicker motor for smaller lakes, plus a trolling motor. The lakes closest to me have a 8 HP limit, but the 75 can stay on as long as it remains tilted up. I would also have a box mount trolling motor on a quick release mounting plate. Also looking at a removable bait live well for minnows. Thinking of replacing the ski locker with a live well if I can make it work in the space.

For cruising around: same as watersports, but a convertible top (if I can find one for my boat) plus a bow cover, that way we can anchor in a bay and camp out in the boat on calm nights. Probably add bug netting in there somehow.

It would probably take about an hour or so to switch out the seats and hook/unhook the live well and trolling motor each time we switched things around. Things like the convertible top would also be on. Shade would be awesome when trolling.

Going to replace all wood with marine grade or exterior grade and sealed with epoxy, replace foam under the deck and fill in any practical space with it to assist in flotation should I damage the hull, replace the bilge with a 750-800 GPH automatic one that has a warning light in the console, plus a second 800-1200 GPH manual bilge pump wired to the console and with a separate thru-hull output in case of hull damage so I can limp back to shore.

We want to put in a sliding door for under the windshield to protect against cold wind, and protect gear from splashes coming over the bow. We're also trying to figure out how to turn the forward seats into flip top compartments for storage.

Any unused space I want to turn into storage, fill with foam sheets, use for speakers, or somehow use so I have minimal wasted space.

Will be adding:

Marine radio with weather
LED lighting to replace incandescent, but will try to keep the same classic styling when possible

Additional cleats midship as it only has cleats fore and aft. The additional cleats are primarily for boat fenders as we rubbed some paint off this past weekend leaving her tied to the dock with the fender tied the best we could, but lacking a cleat where we needed it.

Hybrid Starting/Deep Cycle battery to help run the bilge pumps

8 HP kicker for emergencies and for smaller lakes.

Extra transom eyes or reinforcements to transom to be able to tow a boat.

Thinking about a life ring in additional to my throwable "seat cushion", but the boat is small and limited on space, and the question becomes where to put it, unless I put it on the top of the splashwell, which could work.

Will also want to either tune up the 75 HP 2-stroke that is on it now to reduce smoke in the exhaust and reduce sound, or repower with a used 4-stroke (new one isn't going to be in the budget)

Thoughts on all of this?

I will need to figure out how to make the transom almost bulletproof and as strong as possible. Looking at marine grade plywood sealed with epoxy. For now I might seal up the openings between my splashwell and transom with globs of sealant. The bilge pump got a work out this weekend from all the water draining from the splashwell into the bilge. I might have enough time over the next couple weeks to replace the transom, though.

We also learned something very important this weekend: make sure to put in the drain plug before launching. I saw the back sitting lower than it should have after launch while we were tying it off to the dock. I asked my fianc?e if she put the plug in because I hadn't, and it turns out she hadn't either, so we quickly pulled the boat out. Thankfully the trailer was still in the water, so we were able to get it right back on the trailer and out on the ramp. With the bilge pump running and boat sitting on an incline with the plug still out , it still took about 20-30 minutes to drain out all that water... Whoops. At least no one was waiting to use the ramp! This is where a higher flow rate automatic would come in handy, along with the manual emergency one and the starting/deep cycle battery. Or, you know, remember that pesky drain plug before launching...

Pictures to come soon.
 

SHSU

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Pics make the world go around
 

Watermann

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:welcome: aboard Ech,

Sounds like some ambition plans for your little SS, there's plenty of ideas to go around in the Starcraft section of the forum and literally tons of restorations to read through.

An idea for you rather than add cleats is to add whats called fender locks to the sides of your boat or the gunnels that way you have the fender ropes all adjusted and you just slide them into the locks. I have the stainless ones like seen in the pic below.

http://www.iboats.com/Traditional-St...iew_id.1183624

32-1009_0.jpg
 

EchoNovember

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May 25, 2017
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315
Went to work on the engine and stripped out a spark plug... Now I get to fix that before I can get back to cleaning up the engine. I get to juggle carb cleaning with a transom replacement.

We're going to try to do as much work as possible with restoration before we have to tear out the deck. Seats, console, benches, etc.

Just picked up a Minn Kota 55lb thrust bow mount trolling motor with Autopilot for a steal, now I need the mounting plate. >
 

SHSU

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Now that is a descent looking boat. A lot better shape then mine was!!!!! I wish that is what I had to work with to start with.

For the spark plug, I would recommend removing the water jacket and re tapping the hole. That way you have a chance to decarb the heads as well as make sure you get no metal in your piston.

I am pretty sure you can rent tapping tools from auto zone for free. Just have to give them a deposit and then you get it back when you return it.

http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/thread-restorer-set/oem-thread-restorer-set/391372_0_0
 

EchoNovember

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Used a spark plug repair kit from AutoZone and put in a Helicoil. I greased the tap heavily to catch shavings, and was able to grab the rest from the cylinder as thankfully the grease blob with shavings hung up on the inside of the threads within easy reach. I little more picking around and I'm sure I got 99% of the shavings.

Then I put in all new plugs, used antiseize on the threads, dielectric grease on the tops, put it all back together, and fired her up.

Did I mention I fogged the engine with Seafoam? Sprayed it into the carbs for a "hot soak" and then pulled the plugs and fogged the cylinders. Then it sat for a few days. In the hot sun. When I went to fire it up it started then died. This eery fog rolled out of my propeller exhaust. Halloween worthy, really. I fired her up again and she purred for a two stroke. Oh, and James Bond level smoke screen across my driveway, my neighbors yard... Funny enough, no mosquitos bothered me after that.

Engine is back up and running, fires up without fight or complaint, and runs smoothly. My fianc?e even came out of the house to comment on how it sounds much better now. Going to continue running Seafoam through every tank to continue cleaning up that engine.

The previous owner used the cheapest TC-W3 oil he could find. I'm going to be switching to Pennzoil Synthetic XLF when I run out is gas again. I've done nothing but good things about that oil, including lower smoke output.
 

SHSU

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Currently for my testing I use whatever is cheapo at Walliworld; however, once, i get it back together I will be switching to a good oil. I to have see a lot of good comments on Pennzoil Synthetic XLF
 

Dabbler_E

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Nice! Wish I could say that I've never tried to launch without the drain plug in, but I'd be lying. Looking forward to following your work!
 

EchoNovember

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Currently for my testing I use whatever is cheapo at Walliworld; however, once, i get it back together I will be switching to a good oil. I to have see a lot of good comments on Pennzoil Synthetic XLF

That cheap stuff will still gunk things up. Besides, if you're adjusting your carbs or tuning the engine you want to use what you're going to use on the water. Otherwise you're setting things up for a mix you're not going to use later. Use now what you will use when it's done. Read that on here somewhere, in one of the two stroke forums/posts.
 

Watermann

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The motor will do even better after you go out on the water and run it at WOT for a while to blow out the loosened up carbon.
 

Watermann

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Just remember how much we enjoy seeing videos of these events. :D
 

EchoNovember

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I'll be sure to mount a GoPro so you can see the exhaust and the carbon residue blowing out, though I'm not sure why that's so exciting...

;-)
 

EchoNovember

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I still need to figure out what epoxy resin to use for the transom. I'm trying to keep it under $50, or as close to that as possible. Can anyone suggest a brand? Links? I want the transom to last a good ten years, though just filling in voids and painting it would suit our needs for now, and should last a few years.
 

Watermann

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I still need to figure out what epoxy resin to use for the transom. I'm trying to keep it under $50, or as close to that as possible. Can anyone suggest a brand? Links? I want the transom to last a good ten years, though just filling in voids and painting it would suit our needs for now, and should last a few years.


I use helmsman spar and painting with a good oil base will last more than a few years.
 

SHSU

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I still need to figure out what epoxy resin to use for the transom. I'm trying to keep it under $50, or as close to that as possible. Can anyone suggest a brand? Links? I want the transom to last a good ten years.

Epoxy under $50? You might look at going with Poly Resin. It is much cheaper and is what most boat manufactures use. But to the point of WM, many use varnish as well. Below link is a thread where Woodonglass talks about another sealer.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...ith-poly-polyurethane-varnish-or-varnish-spar
 

EchoNovember

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No Title

I'm looking at getting the livewell that was on the boat hooked back up. I want to not only aerate the water, but pump in fresh water, aerate it, and dump the old water back into the lake. This will keep ammonia levels down and hopefully keep the water cooler and better aerated as well.

Struggling with the drain pipe. I've been toying with the idea of removing the pipe that would be used to regulate the water level and let the height of the drain hole in the transom do that for me. No matter what, I run into the issue of how to drain the livewell when I leave the lake, unless I put a T valve in the drain line to let the water drain into the blige and out that way, which isn't a bad idea...

I am also considering putting an air pump and bubble bar in the nose of the live well for additional aeration.

Thoughts on all of this?
 

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SHSU

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Been looking at doing something similar in mine.

Look at your intake and plan for some kind of high speed pickup when on plane. They do sell plastic covers that help getting water to your intake
Bubblers are great, but hot air being brought in must be accounted for and replace your water sooner/add ice
For your drainage, I would want something that didn't dump into my bilge. I think you should be able to drain through your intake line but someone else would have to comment. I like the below setup, just got to figure out a cheaper way to do it as I want to be able to run two livewells.

Livewell Setup.gif
 

ezmobee

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Mar 26, 2007
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SHSU said:
Epoxy under $50? You might look at going with Poly Resin. It is much cheaper and is what most boat manufactures use.

Can't use Poly without glass though.

I'd just go with Spar if I was looking to save money. I used it on my bow deck pieces and it seems decent enough.
 
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