Transom issue

EchoNovember

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Okay, I am a new boat owner. I just picked up my first boat this week, and it is a 1985 Starcraft, I think a SS 160, with a 75HP Mercury outboard. I had noticed some minor transom separation when I bought it, but today when I looked at it after hauling it home it had a larger gap forward of the engine instead of just off to the sides. I believe the separation is being caused by the motor bouncing on the boat as it's being trailer down the road. How big of a repair am I looking at, and how do I prevent further damage?

Photos: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BzZpAJpigVDxX3h2THBnMUFUN0k
 
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jbcurt00

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There shoild be a row of screws holding that edge of the splashwell to the transom, if its pulled away, its likely to need to be replaced.
 

EchoNovember

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What will need to be replaced? The transom or the splash well panel? I'm worried about the transom as when I bounce the motor the gap widens and closes. If this is largely cosmetic or at least won't affect the integrity of the transom, then I can stop worrying. If this DOES affect the integrity of the transom, what can I do to repair it? Will a transom saver stop this from happening again or keep this from getting worse?
 

thegipper

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I have that exact same year/model boat. Mine does not have a gap like that at all. My guess is they never used a transom saver and the weight of the motor is messing up the transom as it goes bouncing down the road.

I'm not sure how it needs to be fixed (someone on here should though) but I would definitely say it needs to be fixed before something major happens. Make sure you use a transom saver in the future.

Good luck!
 

thegipper

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Again, I am no expert but I would assume you should start by seeing what secures the transom. If you can push the transom back in place and re-secure it, that would be a good start. Perhaps add some brackets or something to reinforce it and definitely get a transom saver!
 

gm280

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Sad, but I as well think you have a rotted transom. I certainly can't say for certain, but it sure looks suspect to me, and even reading your assessment about pushing on the engine and the gap opening up larger points to a bad transom.

You can check for certain buy drilling about 1/4" size holes as close to the hull at the bottom of the transom as you can get. And that is because boats rot from the bottom up.

If you drill and dark wet or mushy material come out, then your transom is gone and absolutely needs replaced. However, if you drill and nice dry, light colored wood shavings comes out, happy boating. You can use some 4200 or 5200 sealant to seal over the holes.

Oh, and don't drill from the outside of the transom or all the way through either. You are simply drill form the inside of the transom to see the wood material in the transom. So only drill about 1/2" to 3/4" or so.

Hope this helps you out. JMHO
 

SHSU

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Howdy EC and welcome to forum!!!! Take some time and look through the site as you will see many people who have done rebuilds on their Starcraft transoms.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owne...ft-rebuilds-and-restorations-they-re-all-here


As for your particular boat, I am actually working on a SS16 as well. Doing a complete gut and redo. I haven't gotten to the transom install yet (So take what I say with a grain of salt); however, from all the research and everything I have seen here on Iboats it is very straight forward. From the pictures you posted, you should defiantly redo the transom. I would also check your knee bracket as I found mine was damaged which also augmented the damage for me as well.

So here is what I would do/am doing

First inspect knee bracket to make sure it is sound
I would also check all of your rivets and see if you need to replace/re buck (If you can) them.
Make sure you floors are sound and check for any corrosion.
Pull out the splash well. It is held in by rivets and screws. So nothing serious
Any foam you find you should look at putting it back in or replacing it with pink/blue foam (Closed foam) you can find at the big box stores
You will need to remove your motor and store it. You can find plans for motor mounts that others have built here on iBoats
Carefully remove the aluminum trim on top of transom (you can't find any replacements readily). So take your time and be careful
Transom should be held in by 3 bolts on each side, 2 transom eyes, and 6 knee bracket bolts. (Plus the 30 odd screws that the splash well had screwed until they pulled out
Once you remove all that hardware and you have the splash well out you should be able to pull the transom out
You will probably find that you will need to remove your corner stern brackets and bend the aluminum up to get your transom out.
Also, you should find three pieces in there that make up your transom. Hopefully they aren't shot so you can use them as a template to make your knew transom. If not you can use cardboard and trim away until you get the size and shape you want to fit back in and use that as your guide.

Reinstall
So you will find that most of the guys here use 3/4 CDX (exterior grade plywood) and glue two sheets (Cut to size) together to get the 1 1/2 inches needed for the transom
Personally, I do a lot of wood working as a hobby, so I plan to build and glue my two pieces together larger then what I need. Then once dry cut them as one piece so I don't have to worry about one being slightly bigger and doing a lot of sanding. Guys have done it both ways, just have to figure out what is best for you
Some use epoxy with mat to glue the pieces together, others use Tightbond III and a lot of stainless steel screws (Personally I will be going Tightbond route as I have that available)
Then you dry fit mark your holes and drill them out (Not while you have it mounted). You will also find some of the guys have over drilled their holes and then filled with epoxy and then re drilled with the size they need so there will be no way for the water to get in
Once you are happy, you will need to waterproof is so that you won't have to do this again
A lot of guys you will find use epoxy, some you polyester resin with glass, others use marine varnish, and others use paint. It is up to you, but I will be glassing mine when I redo it.
Once you have completed your waterproofing, you reinstall and everything in reverse order and you should be good to go.

I have seen guys say they could get it done in a day. I don't know about that, but its up to you.

So from my limited experience/research that is how I would look at doing it. JMHO I am sure some of the other guys will chime in and correct anything that I misspoke about, but you get the general idea. It may seem overwhelming, but in the end isn't the hardest thing. Plus these guys on this forum are great and will defiantly offer any advice you need.
 

EchoNovember

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.
Oh, and don't drill from the outside of the transom or all the way through either. You are simply drill form the inside of the transom to see the wood material in the transom. So only drill about 1/2" to 3/4" or so.

Why not? I'd just need to install a bigger bilge pump. :p
 

EchoNovember

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I would also check your knee bracket as I found mine was damaged which also augmented the damage for me as well.

I got the gas tanks out of the way to get a visual on the knee bracket, it looks solid.

It may seem overwhelming, but in the end isn't the hardest thing. Plus these guys on this forum are great and will defiantly offer any advice you need.

Overwhelming is tearing apart your 3.8L GM engine to replace the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets, when you are going off of YouTube, and a service manual for the repair. Thankfully my brother (who dropped out of his auto mechanics college track with a year left) was there to help. The hardest part of this repair will be getting the outboard off without breaking it or me. :)

As far as I've been able to tell, it's not rotted, just damaged. Every bit of wood I've been able to see is dry as a bone and in better condition than the back porch I just tore up on the house. This seems like a one to two weekend project. I'll definitely look into the other restorations, as I want to get the livewell running again, and add some electronics and wiring. I LOVE the look of this boat, but I'm in IT and a computer geek by nature, so I'm gonna subtly tech it out. When that starts I'll be sure to document it door both the forum and so I know what the hell I did when it breaks in a couple years. XD
 

SHSU

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I got the gas tanks out of the way to get a visual on the knee bracket, it looks solid.



Overwhelming is tearing apart your 3.8L GM engine to replace the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets, when you are going off of YouTube, and a service manual for the repair. Thankfully my brother (who dropped out of his auto mechanics college track with a year left) was there to help. The hardest part of this repair will be getting the outboard off without breaking it or me. :)

As far as I've been able to tell, it's not rotted, just damaged. Every bit of wood I've been able to see is dry as a bone and in better condition than the back porch I just tore up on the house. This seems like a one to two weekend project. I'll definitely look into the other restorations, as I want to get the livewell running again, and add some electronics and wiring. I LOVE the look of this boat, but I'm in IT and a computer geek by nature, so I'm gonna subtly tech it out. When that starts I'll be sure to document it door both the forum and so I know what the hell I did when it breaks in a couple years. XD

Now that sounds like a fun project!!! Youtube is AWESOME.

That is good to hear , but do a couple test holes just to be sure. I wonder if the previous owner did some tube/ski pulling off the transom eyes.

So if you decide not to replace Transom, you will need to figure out how to prevent the movement that created the issue originally. I would suggest looking at the side brackets that the transom is bolted through and make sure those rivets haven't popped. Something is allowing movement and those screws all pulled out. So those holes are no good. You will need to seal them with 5200/4200 and then re drill them. An idea I am thinking for mine when I re build is to add some additional brackets coming from the transom eyes with some aluminum angle iron bolted to the floor.
 

thegipper

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A little off topic but replacing the upper and lower intake gaskets on a GM 3.8 is not hard at all, I've done several. It's a couple hour job tops. BTW, the upper intake manifold itself on the 3.8 is known to develop a hole/leak near the EGR port which causes the motor to hydrolock or just burn coolant. Sometimes its the gasket but more often than not its the upper intake manifold itself. I've had two fail this way (grand prix and a bonneville).

If the transom wood is fine, perhaps it just needs to be re-secured. I would reinforce it if that is the case.
 

gm280

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Why not? I'd just need to install a bigger bilge pump. :p

Yea I know that seems like a stupid thing to mention. But honestly when we have new iboaters join us, we have no idea what their basic knowledge is and we have had some drill from the outside. So I thought I would head off that issue.

But a really big pump would work with really powerful batteries though. :eek:
 

EchoNovember

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I wonder if the previous owner did some tube/ski pulling off the transom eyes.

Actually, they did. The boat came with the tow ropes, skis, and tube. I take it this should not have been done...

Looks like I'll be reinforcing those when I redo the transom.
 

SHSU

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Actually, they did. The boat came with the tow ropes, skis, and tube. I take it this should not have been done...

Looks like I'll be reinforcing those when I redo the transom.


I plan to reinforce mine so that I can. After I took mine apart and saw the design it was something that concerned me. Thought up the idea of putting aluminum angle iron/brackets on backside of transom eyes and then again on deck and bolting them together. That way i have additional support for the knee bracket.
 

EchoNovember

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I was thinking about putting a reinforcement bar across the inside of the transom that will run directly forward of the motor mount, that way the motor pushing forward on the transom pushes directly on that bar on the other side of the transom, taking virtually all stress off the boat itself and anyone being towed might as well have just harnessed a boat motor. I'm also wondering about the practicality of building a square aluminum tube into the transom when I rebuild it, but I think that will affect the overall strength of the transom...
 

EchoNovember

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When our boats are both restored I think it'd be fun to meet up for a fishing trip. I'm also looking forward to seeing how your restoration goes, and getting ideas and help from you and everyone else here.
 

EchoNovember

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May 25, 2017
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Off topic, but let me know if you find anything in the way of tops for the SS 160. I would love a retractable one that can stand up to being underway at full speed. We bought our boat for fishing, waterside water sports, and cruising.
 
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