1976 Manatee Center Console -- The Floor Must Come Out

[Greglous]

I won't be getting to the removal of the outboard, console, and controls today. By the way, I am looking for a lower unit for a 95' 40 hp Johnson.

Today, I am gathering thoughts and drawing up some rough plans. As for the products -- I would rather not use wood for the stringers, any suggestions? Would it be possible or would there be a benefit to a grid stringer system? I will likely fill the floor with a two part foam. The floors are pretty shallow so I will likely be running three conduits probably 1 1/2 ".

For the deck I am really leaning towards nidacore. Does anyone have experience with this product? I am going to try and seal the deck completely. I will not be putting any holes in the deck.

Also, I plan on painting with a non skid, suggestions? I am thinking that I can glass the console into place? Anyone done this? There is also the transom to deal with. I will probably use marine ply but maybe there are better products? Here are some quick drawings as to what I plan on doing with the boat. In the end, It will be a flats style center console.

I want an overbuilt boat that will last for decades. I have no intention of replacing this boat. In fact, I have a "thing" for these small old school glass boats -- they make me smile! I want this boat to last for a LONG time. So, any suggestions that you guys have that will improve the longevity -- I'm all ears. Here are some rough drafts of what I am looking to build.

 

[Greglous]

Now, what are your favorite tools for demo?

 

[ondarvr]

There are many rebuild threads that discuss the products used for stingers and decks other than wood, plus all the tools and methods to demo the boat. Reading these will give you great insight on what others have learned and tried, then you will have many more detailed questions for your project. Not that answering you directly is an issue, but it will refine the process a bit.

​Almost every person that rebuilds a boat starts with the same idea of only using only the best non rot products and methods, but after some research they tend to dial it back a bit.

 

[Greglous]

Almost every person that rebuilds a boat starts with the same idea of only using only the best non rot products and methods, but after some research they tend to dial it back a bit.

Hmm, is this because of expense?

I will certainly be rummaging through threads in regard to products, tools, and such. I'm hoping to attack this project mostly "at once". I have some vacation time coming up that will allow me to get a ton done. I hope to have most of the products at the ready. If I can eliminate wasted time by having the products ready -- that would be best. This means ordering the products beforehand. So, I am attempting to get all the information that I can. This way, I can get the products ordered asap.

 

[ondarvr]

Yes, it's the cost, plus sometimes availability, it can be hard to find some of the best ( more expensive) products retail.

 

[sphelps]

Yep the cost usually dictates how most rebuild there boats . You can use wood on everything and as long as you take care and store it well it would last a long long time ... I myself used seacast for the transom and stringers but did something a little unusual on the deck .. No wood from the deck down ... I don't know how far you have read through the project ... I will be using plywood for all the casting decks though .
I see palm tree's in your pics ... You somewhere in Florida ? Whats the length of the hull you have ? I like the idea of the larger casting deck you drew up !
Demo tools ... A good half or full faced respirator . Angle grinder with the thin metal cutting blades work great for cutting the glass clean .. Also some 36 grit pads with the rubber or plastic backer for grinding .. Sawzall , skill saw , and if ya have one those multi tools with the vibrating blades come in real handy at times...

 

[Woodonglass]

Wood stringer/deck/transom boats IF encapsulated and installed properly will last DECADES!!! It's NOT the wood that's the problem. It's a combination of inferior workmanship from the factor, poor care and maintenance by the Owner etc... IF you use wood and do the fiberglass work properly and then follow up with proper care and maintenance your boat will last as LONG as you care to own it. The members here on the forum will give you all the advice and techniques needed to ensure she's done right. MOST of our restorations are done with Ext. Grade plywood and Polyester resin. Some have used Seacast for transom and stringers. It is more expensive but...I will last forever even with poor maintenance and care. The attached should be of interest to you...

Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

iBoats MaterialsList.pdf

 

[Greglous]

I see palm tree's in your pics ... You somewhere in Florida ? Whats the length of the hull you have ? I like the idea of the larger casting deck you drew up!

Sphelps, I am in Florida. Clearwater area to be specific. I actually commented on one of your YouTube videos prior to posting here at Iboats -- funny. Yeah, I am not a huge fan of losing space to the casting decks, however, I feel like the decks will help make this boat a little more rigid. The hull is 15 6"

After doing some research I have become more friendly with the idea of using wood. My only concern being, this is my first glassing project. IF there are mistakes, I like the idea of NOT having any wood in the boat. I will be doing some more reading/researching before pulling the trigger on materials.

Woodonglass Thanks for the information. I will be reading the links and coming to a conclusion on materials here soon. Seacast is looking like a viable option for me. The boat will likely be neglected as I travel often for work. Nevertheless, I am still open to the idea of using wood. It's not that I expect to make mistakes (I am meticulous in my craft work) but if a mistake is made I would rather it be seacast that is exposed rather than wood.

 

[ondarvr]

A very good and easy to work with wood substitute is Coosa Board, it comes in various weights and thicknesses to match plywood.

 

[Greglous]

Well, I just dug into the floor a bit. I will post pictures tomorrow. It's pretty pretty filthy and stinky. Looks like sludge under the deck due to soppy wood crumbles and dirty foam water. Even found a plant growing in there -- wild.

 

[Greglous]

So, I was out piddling on the boat again today. I was wondering if you guys could help me come up with a plan here. First of all, what is this? Is this a severe case of gel coat bubbling or is this some other product that is meant to be rough? In the end, I would like to have a nice finish in the interior. That said, I feel like sanding/grinding this texture/bubbling off might be more labor than what it's worth. What do you guys think? Is there another way to make this look somewhat finished without the intensive labor? If intensive labor is my only option, I will suck it up and cry while I do it. Just looking for some options -- I don't like to cry! Lol What would your plan of attack be if it were your boat?

 

[Greglous]

...

 

[Greglous]

....

 

[Greglous]

Will a mod delete the last two post. They were accidental and I do not know how to delete a post in it's entirety. Thanks!

 

[kcassells]

Looks like years and years of paint over cracking gelcoat or rough glass under the paint/gelcoat. You'll need to hit that out with a sander.

 

[Greglous]

Looks like years and years of paint over cracking gelcoat or rough glass under the paint/gelcoat. You'll need to hit that out with a sander.

Good call. Hopefully, it's a cracking gelcoat rather than rough glass underneath there. I'm really not looking forward to this task. Haha! I don't know why I do this to myself. I literally paid to suffer. Haha!

 

[Woodonglass]

Soak a rag in Acetone and lay it on the surface. Let stand for 30 minutes. Lift the rag and see if you can putty knife that gunk off. If so then it's paint. If not then it's gelcoat and you'll have a LOT of Grinding in your future!!!

 

[sphelps]

Same stuff that was on mine ... Some kind of Zolatone maybe .. It's pretty tuff grinding ... You must become one with the grinder ...:twitch:
I think I burned up about 4 - 24 grit disk per side ...
That sure is a wide ledge going down the sides ... I would think it would be a good place to kneel down on while landing fish ...Might be nice to have a few upholstered pads here and there just for that purpose ...idk ..

 

[Greglous]

Soak a rag in Acetone and lay it on the surface. Let stand for 30 minutes. Lift the rag and see if you can putty knife that gunk off. If so then it's paint. If not then it's gelcoat and you'll have a LOT of Grinding in your future!!!

That's a good idea. I will certainly give that a shot before busting out the grinder. More than likely -- I am screwed. Haha!

 

[Greglous]

Same stuff that was on mine ... Some kind of Zolatone maybe .. It's pretty tuff grinding ... You must become one with the grinder ...:twitch:
I think I burned up about 4 - 24 grit disk per side ...
That sure is a wide ledge going down the sides ... I would think it would be a good place to kneel down on while landing fish ...Might be nice to have a few upholstered pads here and there just for that purpose ...idk ..

Holy crap. That sounds like lots and lots of fun! I can't wait! Yeah I am thinking that the gutter rails will stay so long as whatever is underneath is in good shape. They are about 4 inches wide give or take. So are you in Florida too, Sphelps? If you are nearby you should be a good neighbor and come help with the grinding! :lol::lol::lol::lol: